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Thunder at Brownstones (Read 2347 times)

r-man

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Thunder at Brownstones
September 18, 2005, 11:52:53 pm
Anyone got any beta for this? Think I'll give it another go tomorrow, but it's rather high and I'd much rather have beta than keep hurtling towards my mat...

So you layback up to where holds run out... Then what? Use the slopey pocket? Get feet up somehow?

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#1 Thunder at Brownstones
September 28, 2005, 11:05:56 am
top rope?

clm

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#2 Thunder at Brownstones
September 28, 2005, 05:05:11 pm
A lot of the problems on that wall had first ascents with a top rope and have often been climbed in that way.  thunder is about the highest of the hard ones.  i reckon a top rope aswell.
try the 5c one nearby - the cracvk that curves over.  the wall is significantly higher than it looks in that bit as the ground drops.  wouldnt like to fall from high up.
ps.  i have backed off the 5c one every time for high and scary reasons.

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#3 Thunder at Brownstones
September 28, 2005, 05:23:35 pm
Try old man Andy Kay for beta, he's always worth a shout, you'll probably remember him he gave you a load of help with the Brownstones Guide.

r-man

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#4 Thunder at Brownstones
September 28, 2005, 05:59:17 pm
Quote from: "clm"
A lot of the problems on that wall had first ascents with a top rope and have often been climbed in that way.  thunder is about the highest of the hard ones.  i reckon a top rope aswell.
try the 5c one nearby - the cracvk that curves over.  the wall is significantly higher than it looks in that bit as the ground drops.  wouldnt like to fall from high up.
ps.  i have backed off the 5c one every time for high and scary reasons.


Yeah I guess it's probably the most sensible way. Just a bit of a faff needing a rope and a belayer. Are there good anchors up there? I haven't really looked.

And that 5c crack is the highest line on the wall! I doubt I'll be going near it anytime soon. E grades territory. Have you noticed how a lot of the lines on the wall have one last tricky move to grab the top? Adds spice/colours the trousers.

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Try old man Andy Kay for beta, he's always worth a shout, you'll probably remember him he gave you a load of help with the Brownstones Guide.


Yeah I've been meaning to ask him, just haven't got round to it yet as I got sidetracked by other problems. Plenty to do on that wall, plenty not in the lancs guide too. Every time I've been I've discovered something else. It's a fantastic piece of rock, really deserves more attention.

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#5 Thunder at Brownstones
September 29, 2005, 02:42:33 pm
In case anyone's interested, Andy Kay gave me some beta:

Quote
Thunder – it's a hard one; I've done it once and never gone back on it. As far as I remember (it's going back a bit) you lay off the edge of the big slot, left foot in the bottom as I remember and look to get a kind of finger-lock thing in the narrow slot that is, or seems miles away  - or at least that it how it felt at the time. There isn't a lot for your feet here and a long reach would definitely help – the rest is kinda vague to me now but it seemed OK. I would imagine this is the type of problem that would be perfect for Geoff Hibbert and monkey arms.


Just thought I'd stick it on here, cos it's nice when threads have a resolution. Closure. That's the word. Rubbish word. I'll try to avoid using it again.

 

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