[dontfollowme]

I was trying this on saturday (just left of the right arete). I can rock over to the first crimp fairly easily for my left hand, I was then getting the painful crimp with my right but then I couldn't move up any further. It was a bit of a disppointing trip really, I couldn't get up the other v5/6 that was there either I can only think its a case of mind over body to try and forget about the pain.

[Rhys]

Um, where is the Superboulder? I've heard it's by Gerlan, and there's the Wave boulder nearby(?), but I've no idea where they are or whats on them.
Sorry if this doesn't help yet, but if I know where they are I'll be off tomorrow!

[dontfollowme]

Hi
Its impossible to explain. If you park on the top road you need to head downwards via a choice of roads (not down the road you have parked on though). It really is a case of following your nose. You do have to go down the side of a scary looking house which i think is at the end of a coldisac. Good luck. Its not that great IMO

[Pantontino]

The Super Boulder (or Braichmelyn Boulder as it should be called) is a bit crimpy to please everyone, but if you go on a cold day the problems do feel a lot better. I've not done the wall left of the arete, but seen a friend try it - he got quite high, but hit small awkward holds. Dave Towse maintains the grade is correct though.

The sds to the right arete is classic, certainly one of my favourites.

[Rhys]

I found the place the other week and fell in love. I found the northern soul descriptions of the problems a wee bit confusing- e.g. direct to ramp at V8 felt way much easier than the V6's, didn't finish them off though- I decided to grow some skin for a dawn raid.
p.s for the arete, at the top there is a massive branch- can you finish with this because I found traversing left to the mossy sloping top quite stiff for V2.

[Pantontino]

I've given the whole boulder a revamp, courtesy of feedback from my  man Dave Towse - who climbed here a lot in the early 80s with JR.

I've always used the tree branch - seems contrived not to.

[Rhys]

I've heard some mutterings that the traverse is dropping to V8, is this so?
Also is there any chance of some clearer descriptions for the problems? Cheers.

[Pantontino]

Rhys, it seems that I have to be careful what I say about grades these days, but what the hell, I'll stick my head above the parapet and state emphatically that, even though I've never done it, I believe Dave when he says its V8, with V8+ (his words, not mine) for the Spring Juice finish.

The revamp is so simple, even I can understand it - it'll be with you soon. I'm fondling a bound proof copy of the guide as I type.

[Rhys]

Cheers for replying but you've made me a very unhappy man- by taking away my only excuse not to try it you've forced me into a winter of bleeding tips and nerve damage, shame on you. :wink:
Spring voyage? Que?

[Rhys]

Sorry Gruff mate, I was wondering what the Spring juice finish Panton mentioned was- I got a bit confused while I was writing (I think my concerntration and spelling have gone a bit sketchy since I've given up smoking). I've pm'd you to ask how that went, next time! Take care Rhys.