UKBouldering.com

Wilton Problem (Read 9886 times)

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#25 Wilton Problem
September 18, 2005, 06:54:58 pm
but cliff richard was at the crag! I have photo evidence

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#26 Wilton Problem
September 18, 2005, 11:18:49 pm
Yeah, I remember that post, and I remember you taking the piss (though please don't diss Cliff Richard*) it's why the name common knowledge was in my head when I was helping Andi with the topo. I know you didn't do it first, but Paul Robins didn't seem that interested in giving it a name (he thought someone else had probably done it before him).

Anyway, one name is as good as any and better than none.

But do you have a name for the Wilton problem up through the undercuts? That's a lot less likely to have been done before, as I moved a few large rocks which used to make the landing dodgy.

-And where did you finish? Did you go all the way up as in the topo? Or did you finish right or left?

*Give me a minute** and I'm sure I'll think of a reason why.
**Perhaps a little longer than a minute.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#27 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 02:07:46 am
Just found a pic of the problem. Here be it.


andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#28 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 09:25:22 am
i've been now, just i hadn't been after having been asked to do it. i'd been many a time before that.


Anyway Dense is a baldy, so he must be a local.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#29 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 09:41:43 am
Oh shutup you two. Go highjack another thread. Wait a minute, you already have...

Better still, go start a Wimberry thread. Oh wait a minute...

 :roll:

I want to know if Clm finished this problem, and if so, which direction did he go...

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#30 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 09:45:28 am
wwhat are you doing up this early in the morning?

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#31 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 09:53:59 am
Goddamn, now we're onto page three! I'm up because I had to post a letter for a job in sheffield that I probably won't get. Now shush.

Clm, if you're reading this you probably think this thread has dragged on way too long and it's just Dense and Andi_e prattling on at each other. You're mostly right. But I'm still curious - did you do the problem in the photo, and if so, where did you finish it?

Obi-Wan is lost...

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3164
  • Karma: +138/-3
#32 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 12:19:04 pm
Quote from: "r-man"
and if so, which direction did he go...
He went 'THAT-A-WAY'  :arrow:

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#33 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 01:05:53 pm
And finished on the big jug out right? I tried that once, but the rocks below were a bit scary. Looked like it might have been a little easier, but I could be wrong.

Have you done it? Any idea of a grade?

clm

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1384
  • Karma: +33/-3
#34 Wilton Problem
September 29, 2005, 06:39:46 pm
id have to go back and try again.  i remember going up and sticking to small edges until i ran out.  definately looks like the same problem as i remember walking my feet up that feature.  definately rememebr making sure i avoided a big flake on the left (though used an edge very near to it) for the sake of an extra move or so which might have been a big right handed slappy manouvre.  might go at the weekend

not really arsed about a name - problem 3??


the landing didnt bother me as i remember just having to pop backwards a bit to avoid that little pit with the rocks in - rememebr youth i grew up in the days before pads.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#35 Wilton Problem
September 30, 2005, 12:13:31 am
Hmm, big flake on left? I just went straight up to the undercling/overlap. Haven't really tried going right though, will have to give it a go sometime. Big slap to the jug you say? Sounds worth a bash.

Going left involved getting feet a bit higher and stretching up quite a bit. You can't really see the hold from the ground, but when you've got it it's good - you can just step off onto the large ledge further left. It's a little higher than the right hand version but the landing is better.

There's still the traverses to do as well - the high one looks good in a sort of awkward undercling-balance-shuffle way. Haven't tried it cos of the rocks, but you might not mind, seeing as you're a bad-ass. ;)

When did pads happen anyway? It can't have been that long ago?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal