[r-man]

Did a great problem at Wilton today, it's more or less the Direct Start to the E5 Black Mamba. The problem goes up through an awkward head-height undercut and finishes by matching a good edge up and left of said feature. Don't think it's been done before - I moved a few rocks to flatten the landing (it's now fine with a mat). The crux is turning the undercut into a useful hold, and it's possibly the best problem I've done at Wilton 1. Anyway, assuming it's an FA, it's called Snakey B and is about V6.

...Maybe it would be possible to make another couple of moves to reach what looks like a good flake higher up, but it's a bit high.



Oh, and I did a goodun at Healey Nab the other day. A lovely little arete that I thought was going to be damn hard (the only sequence that seemed to be working was a wild flail for a sloper, from a position involving a heel by my ear) ...until I found a small sidepull, which turned it into a nice V5ish problem. Called it Grabadabadoo.

Yup.

[Fiend]

Awesome. You should submit this to UKC for a news item.

[r-man]

You mean like this:

Dear Ukc, I have a news item for you. Fiend is reported to have posted:

Awesome. You should submit this to Ukc for a news item.

To which someone replied:

You mean like this:

Dear Ukc, I have a news item for you. Fiend is reported to have posted:

"Awesome. You should submit this to Ukc for a news item."

To which someone replied:

To which someone replied:

You mean like this:

Dear Ukc, I have a news item for you. Fiend is reported to have posted:

"Awesome. You should submit this to Ukc for a news item."

[Fiend]

ROFL  

Yeah don't report the new problems, just report that new problems are being reported on a forum.... :shock:

[clm]

if its about three feet right of the start of wipeout then definately heve done it - the undercut move sounds very familiar.  is it almost directly below the bolt of black mamba?

[clm]

is it the one marked number 3 on your wilton topo??

[r-man]

is it the one marked number 3 on your wilton topo??

Balls, yes. Ah well, it's a good problem eh? Where did you finish, all the way up at the flake, or did you go to a ledge left or right?

All of those grades are made up, by the way. I did that topo when I couldn't climb and I was just looking for possibilities. So I haven't done 3a or 3b (3a is nonsense, 3b would be quite hard). Or either of the traverses, which are probably harder than V3. You done any of them?

And do you have a name for the problem? I'll stick it in the topo. (Until Paul R remembers he did it years ago  :wink: )

[Bonjoy]

So I haven't done 3a or 3b (3a is nonsense, 3b would be quite hard).

Practice makes perfect r-man. One day you'll reach the heady heights of 4a  :wink:

[r-man]

I hope so. I'd be happy with 3c, though I fear I may come unstuck on 3b+. I think you have to be able to do two-armers for that sort of grade. I might check out planetfear for some training tips.

[andy_e]

and it's such a shame , our V0- only extends to 4a too... you are so nearly there!

[Yossarian]

I hope so. I'd be happy with 3c, though I fear I may come unstuck on 3b+. I think you have to be able to do two-armers for that sort of grade. I might check out planetfear for some training tips.

i found the progression from 3b to 3b+ really hard.  in the end i enlisted the help of some top coaches.  we worked out the following plan:

monday: jogging on the spot & arm helicopters
tuesday: rest
wednesday: ballroom dancing
thursday: rest
friday: stretching and manual relief
saturday: thai massage
sunday: active rest

if you stick with it then i am confident that you will manage your first 3b+ in 6 to 12 months...

[andy_e]

Told you the grades were stiff, hank's wall gets 3b and Common Knowledge gets 3a

[a dense loner]

Common Knowledge

it's called local knowledge, you don't find a new sequence and give it a new name

[clm]

you and your ego dense :roll:

[andy_e]

i don't actually care what it's called everyone knows what i mean anyway. it's "done years ago" anyway.

[a dense loner]

clm that, my friend, is genius

[a dense loner]

i don't actually care what it's called everyone knows what i mean anyway. it's "done years ago" anyway

is that what you're going to do with the new bmc guidebook? put a picture of fish arete in n call it colin, FA claude e. benson circa 1902. if the arete where 2 foot longer i suggest it would be beyond the means of any man

[Jim]

clm, you are indeed a genius. Dense you are also a genius, a miserable one at that tho

[andy_e]

i don't actually care what it's called everyone knows what i mean anyway. it's "done years ago" anyway

is that what you're going to do with the new bmc guidebook? put a picture of fish arete in n call it colin, FA claude e. benson circa 1902. if the arete where 2 foot longer i suggest it would be beyond the means of any man

if it'll piss you off then yeah ok good idea...

i might pass that job on though, now being injured and still not having been there, but i have a shiteload of stuff about it.

[a dense loner]

good, i can't wait. only been a couple of times so i'd like to know what probs are what

[andy_e]

but others aren't local like you

[JR]

you two... your wimberry retorts are like chewing glass!

I think we should have it out like good upstanding citizens.

Anyone fancy the next UKB meet weekend at wimberry with your local guides, mr lee "bitter" anderson and mr andi "stalker" e.  Theyll show you all the classics like "colin the fish arete sit down start without your right hand" and "mile's slab footless with one hand in you chalk bag."

Although i think you two need to get together privately beforehand to go through the circuit, and check out the walk in, maybe get to know eachother a little better.  We dont want any stirrup boulder incidents again do we!?!

;-)

but then again, dense does have a point...

[cofe]

and still not having been there

who the hell asked you to write it then and why?!

i might write a new guide for lofoten, as i haven't been there. hmmm where else could i write a guide for...

[a dense loner]

can't make next wknd as i will be at black mountain, n i don't mean kinder. may try n make it 6 wk's later

[clm]

by th way...check out the post where i referred tol local knowledge as common knowledge.  somewhere about the point i mentioned that cliff richard was at the crag you should have realised that i was being none too serious.  hell why should i name it - didnt even do bthe  FA

[Jim]

but cliff richard was at the crag! I have photo evidence

[r-man]

Yeah, I remember that post, and I remember you taking the piss (though please don't diss Cliff Richard*) it's why the name common knowledge was in my head when I was helping Andi with the topo. I know you didn't do it first, but Paul Robins didn't seem that interested in giving it a name (he thought someone else had probably done it before him).

Anyway, one name is as good as any and better than none.

But do you have a name for the Wilton problem up through the undercuts? That's a lot less likely to have been done before, as I moved a few large rocks which used to make the landing dodgy.

-And where did you finish? Did you go all the way up as in the topo? Or did you finish right or left?

*Give me a minute** and I'm sure I'll think of a reason why.
**Perhaps a little longer than a minute.

[r-man]

Just found a pic of the problem. Here be it.

[andy_e]

i've been now, just i hadn't been after having been asked to do it. i'd been many a time before that.


Anyway Dense is a baldy, so he must be a local.

[r-man]

Oh shutup you two. Go highjack another thread. Wait a minute, you already have...

Better still, go start a Wimberry thread. Oh wait a minute...

 :roll:

I want to know if Clm finished this problem, and if so, which direction did he go...

[andy_e]

wwhat are you doing up this early in the morning?

[r-man]

Goddamn, now we're onto page three! I'm up because I had to post a letter for a job in sheffield that I probably won't get. Now shush.

Clm, if you're reading this you probably think this thread has dragged on way too long and it's just Dense and Andi_e prattling on at each other. You're mostly right. But I'm still curious - did you do the problem in the photo, and if so, where did you finish it?

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

and if so, which direction did he go...

He went 'THAT-A-WAY'  

[r-man]

And finished on the big jug out right? I tried that once, but the rocks below were a bit scary. Looked like it might have been a little easier, but I could be wrong.

Have you done it? Any idea of a grade?

[clm]

id have to go back and try again.  i remember going up and sticking to small edges until i ran out.  definately looks like the same problem as i remember walking my feet up that feature.  definately rememebr making sure i avoided a big flake on the left (though used an edge very near to it) for the sake of an extra move or so which might have been a big right handed slappy manouvre.  might go at the weekend

not really arsed about a name - problem 3??


the landing didnt bother me as i remember just having to pop backwards a bit to avoid that little pit with the rocks in - rememebr youth i grew up in the days before pads.

[r-man]

Hmm, big flake on left? I just went straight up to the undercling/overlap. Haven't really tried going right though, will have to give it a go sometime. Big slap to the jug you say? Sounds worth a bash.

Going left involved getting feet a bit higher and stretching up quite a bit. You can't really see the hold from the ground, but when you've got it it's good - you can just step off onto the large ledge further left. It's a little higher than the right hand version but the landing is better.

There's still the traverses to do as well - the high one looks good in a sort of awkward undercling-balance-shuffle way. Haven't tried it cos of the rocks, but you might not mind, seeing as you're a bad-ass.

When did pads happen anyway? It can't have been that long ago?