[r-man]

Did a great problem at Wilton today, it's more or less the Direct Start to the E5 Black Mamba. The problem goes up through an awkward head-height undercut and finishes by matching a good edge up and left of said feature. Don't think it's been done before - I moved a few rocks to flatten the landing (it's now fine with a mat). The crux is turning the undercut into a useful hold, and it's possibly the best problem I've done at Wilton 1. Anyway, assuming it's an FA, it's called Snakey B and is about V6.

...Maybe it would be possible to make another couple of moves to reach what looks like a good flake higher up, but it's a bit high.



Oh, and I did a goodun at Healey Nab the other day. A lovely little arete that I thought was going to be damn hard (the only sequence that seemed to be working was a wild flail for a sloper, from a position involving a heel by my ear) ...until I found a small sidepull, which turned it into a nice V5ish problem. Called it Grabadabadoo.

Yup.

[Fiend]

Awesome. You should submit this to UKC for a news item.

[r-man]

You mean like this:

Dear Ukc, I have a news item for you. Fiend is reported to have posted:

Awesome. You should submit this to Ukc for a news item.

To which someone replied:

You mean like this:

Dear Ukc, I have a news item for you. Fiend is reported to have posted:

"Awesome. You should submit this to Ukc for a news item."

To which someone replied:

To which someone replied:

You mean like this:

Dear Ukc, I have a news item for you. Fiend is reported to have posted:

"Awesome. You should submit this to Ukc for a news item."

[Fiend]

ROFL  

Yeah don't report the new problems, just report that new problems are being reported on a forum.... :shock:

[clm]

if its about three feet right of the start of wipeout then definately heve done it - the undercut move sounds very familiar.  is it almost directly below the bolt of black mamba?

[clm]

is it the one marked number 3 on your wilton topo??

[r-man]

is it the one marked number 3 on your wilton topo??

Balls, yes. Ah well, it's a good problem eh? Where did you finish, all the way up at the flake, or did you go to a ledge left or right?

All of those grades are made up, by the way. I did that topo when I couldn't climb and I was just looking for possibilities. So I haven't done 3a or 3b (3a is nonsense, 3b would be quite hard). Or either of the traverses, which are probably harder than V3. You done any of them?

And do you have a name for the problem? I'll stick it in the topo. (Until Paul R remembers he did it years ago  :wink: )

[Bonjoy]

So I haven't done 3a or 3b (3a is nonsense, 3b would be quite hard).

Practice makes perfect r-man. One day you'll reach the heady heights of 4a  :wink:

[r-man]

I hope so. I'd be happy with 3c, though I fear I may come unstuck on 3b+. I think you have to be able to do two-armers for that sort of grade. I might check out planetfear for some training tips.

[andy_e]

and it's such a shame , our V0- only extends to 4a too... you are so nearly there!

[Yossarian]

I hope so. I'd be happy with 3c, though I fear I may come unstuck on 3b+. I think you have to be able to do two-armers for that sort of grade. I might check out planetfear for some training tips.

i found the progression from 3b to 3b+ really hard.  in the end i enlisted the help of some top coaches.  we worked out the following plan:

monday: jogging on the spot & arm helicopters
tuesday: rest
wednesday: ballroom dancing
thursday: rest
friday: stretching and manual relief
saturday: thai massage
sunday: active rest

if you stick with it then i am confident that you will manage your first 3b+ in 6 to 12 months...

[andy_e]

Told you the grades were stiff, hank's wall gets 3b and Common Knowledge gets 3a

[a dense loner]

Common Knowledge

it's called local knowledge, you don't find a new sequence and give it a new name

[clm]

you and your ego dense :roll:

[andy_e]

i don't actually care what it's called everyone knows what i mean anyway. it's "done years ago" anyway.

[a dense loner]

clm that, my friend, is genius

[a dense loner]

i don't actually care what it's called everyone knows what i mean anyway. it's "done years ago" anyway

is that what you're going to do with the new bmc guidebook? put a picture of fish arete in n call it colin, FA claude e. benson circa 1902. if the arete where 2 foot longer i suggest it would be beyond the means of any man

[Jim]

clm, you are indeed a genius. Dense you are also a genius, a miserable one at that tho

[andy_e]

i don't actually care what it's called everyone knows what i mean anyway. it's "done years ago" anyway

is that what you're going to do with the new bmc guidebook? put a picture of fish arete in n call it colin, FA claude e. benson circa 1902. if the arete where 2 foot longer i suggest it would be beyond the means of any man

if it'll piss you off then yeah ok good idea...

i might pass that job on though, now being injured and still not having been there, but i have a shiteload of stuff about it.

[a dense loner]

good, i can't wait. only been a couple of times so i'd like to know what probs are what

[andy_e]

but others aren't local like you

[JR]

you two... your wimberry retorts are like chewing glass!

I think we should have it out like good upstanding citizens.

Anyone fancy the next UKB meet weekend at wimberry with your local guides, mr lee "bitter" anderson and mr andi "stalker" e.  Theyll show you all the classics like "colin the fish arete sit down start without your right hand" and "mile's slab footless with one hand in you chalk bag."

Although i think you two need to get together privately beforehand to go through the circuit, and check out the walk in, maybe get to know eachother a little better.  We dont want any stirrup boulder incidents again do we!?!

;-)

but then again, dense does have a point...

[cofe]

and still not having been there

who the hell asked you to write it then and why?!

i might write a new guide for lofoten, as i haven't been there. hmmm where else could i write a guide for...

[a dense loner]

can't make next wknd as i will be at black mountain, n i don't mean kinder. may try n make it 6 wk's later

[clm]

by th way...check out the post where i referred tol local knowledge as common knowledge.  somewhere about the point i mentioned that cliff richard was at the crag you should have realised that i was being none too serious.  hell why should i name it - didnt even do bthe  FA