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Where is the best bouldering in the UK? (Read 18615 times)

Dave Flanagan

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Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 10:09:30 am
Inspired by rocktalk, curiousity and boredom?

cofe

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#1 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 10:13:30 am
surely you mean 'uk AND ireland' dave...?

and my answer is - no comment.

andy_e

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#2 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 10:15:22 am
i'd say lancashire tongue-in-cheek stylee but you lot would all annihilate me... so i'll say Yorkshire.

dave

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#3 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 10:38:00 am
i would say that places like the peak/yorkshire/nwales/northumberland/lakes all have bouldering that meets the criteria of best in the UK, i.e. the best problems at all of the areas are as good as the best things in the peak.

recon its hard to say where the best area is though. we thing of yorkshire and the peak as being areas, but in reality say the bridestones is nowhere near the slipstones and burbage, the roaches and wimberry are nowhere near each other really, in the same say that kyloe and shaftoe are not neighbours. the areas we think of are too big to be fair. it'd be better to think of say smaller areas that are more directly comparable. like you could compare the eastern edges with the almscliffe/ilkley/shipley/caley group, with the south lakes, with staffs grit, with the bowden/back/kyloe group, with the pass/ogwen/mallory group, with the orme group as the main UK areas in terms of density of good climbing. in which case i recon you'de be hard pressed to choose.

having said that, obviously the peak is the best.

Dave Flanagan

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#4 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 10:51:28 am
Quote from: "cofe"
surely you mean 'uk AND ireland' dave...?

and my answer is - no comment.


The best bouldering area in Ireland is Glendalough, no doubt about that. How it compares to the UK I don't really know.

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#5 Re: Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 10:57:16 am
Quote from: "Dave Flanagan"
Inspired by rocktalk


Does not compute :lol:

For me it'd be a toss-up between Peak and Yorkshire - boringly predictable I know, but that's where I'd choose if I could choose only one place to boulder.....but then there's loads of places I've never been bouldering - like Ireland for starters.

cofe

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#6 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 11:05:43 am
Quote from: "Dave Flanagan"
Quote from: "cofe"
surely you mean 'uk AND ireland' dave...?

and my answer is - no comment.


The best bouldering area in Ireland is Glendalough, no doubt about that. How it compares to the UK I don't really know.


it more than holds its own. i'd like to spend a bit more time up at glenmacnass - the potential looked mega. solidarity at glenmacnass is one of the best problems i've ever done. amazing. and that place on the deforested hillside looked good.

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#7 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 11:12:45 am
The Peaks

Sypeland

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#8 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 11:13:05 am
Only Joking!!!

Dave Flanagan

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#9 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 11:17:50 am
Quote from: "cofe"
Quote from: "Dave Flanagan"
Quote from: "cofe"
surely you mean 'uk AND ireland' dave...?

and my answer is - no comment.


The best bouldering area in Ireland is Glendalough, no doubt about that. How it compares to the UK I don't really know.


it more than holds its own. i'd like to spend a bit more time up at glenmacnass - the potential looked mega. solidarity at glenmacnass is one of the best problems i've ever done. amazing. and that place on the deforested hillside looked good.


We are going down tomorrow staying in the hut, its Michael's birthday so we are having a small gathering. Funny you mention Mall Hill (the deforested place) I have had a strong craving to go there for the last while.

dave

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#10 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 11:27:12 am
personally speaking i've always said that the best stuff at glendalough was the same quality as the best suff anywhere.

Below that quality level i found that it seemed to drop off quite quick into the territory of "locals" problems, i.e. low roofs in scree, dodgier landings, lip traverses etc. In many ways this can be good though cos theres pleanty for locals to go back for, and at the same time a visitor can feel like they've pollished off the bulk of quality up to their grade in a couple of visits. I don't think its quote got the depth of quality of some places, but its very good and got some amazing stuff.

Dave Flanagan

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#11 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 11:52:22 am
Quote from: "dave"
personally speaking i've always said that the best stuff at glendalough was the same quality as the best suff anywhere.

Below that quality level i found that it seemed to drop off quite quick into the territory of "locals" problems, i.e. low roofs in scree, dodgier landings, lip traverses etc. In many ways this can be good though cos theres pleanty for locals to go back for, and at the same time a visitor can feel like they've pollished off the bulk of quality up to their grade in a couple of visits. I don't think its quote got the depth of quality of some places, but its very good and got some amazing stuff.


All good points there. I suppose the really measure of an area is the quantity of the quality (AND  for you boolean heads) as opposed to just one or the other (XOR).

AndyR

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#12 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 12:26:05 pm
Quote from: "cofe"
solidarity at glenmacnass is one of the best problems i've ever done. amazing.


I thangyew.

Did you do the left-hand version or the right hand side?

cofe

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#13 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 12:31:14 pm
RH. LH was much trickier although robins managed it eventually. RH was just great. check it out here homie:  http://www.beardownproductions.co.uk/video.html

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#14 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:01:28 pm
Yorkshire, for the quality.

North Wales, for the variety.

(The Peak isn't a contender really, yes it's very good in a hugely hyped and over-developed sort of way, but Yorkshire kicks it's ass for variety of settings, gritstone flavas, climbing styles, and for the amount of quality)

Bubba

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#15 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:31:47 pm
Hmmm - a lot of Yorkshire is over-hyped as well. Plus the fact it's spread out over miles and miles.

cofe

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#16 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:33:33 pm
i love these debates - i'm hoping it'll pick up more so i can flick between this a the cricket...just needs  someone to wind dave up.

Stubbs

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#17 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:38:08 pm
NTBTA is shit.......

Bubba

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#18 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:41:22 pm
Earl crag is a green bag 'o shite.

squeek

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#19 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:47:27 pm
Best bouldering area in the UK, well from my house I can get to yorkshire, peak, lakes, and North Wales in a day.  So the answer's my house  :)
I like the crags in yorkshire they seem to have more of an individual feeling to them all, but it takes longer to get to Slipstones from my house than the Peak, so you can't really class it as the same area.

How long does it take to get to Almscliff/Caley from Sheffield?  Can't be that much longer than some places in the Peak.

If you were coming for an extended holiday/trip then you could easily go to all the mentioned places, North Wales, Yorkshire, Peak, Northumberland, et al because they're all close together.

Depends what you class as an area I suppose, a small cluster of crags close together, or all the crags drivable in a few hours...

squeek

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#20 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:53:05 pm
Quote from: "Bubba"
Earl crag is a green bag 'o shite.


Troll!  Quick ban him! ;) Earl's great, in fact I might try to get up early one morning when it's dry and do underpants, or at least repeatedly fall off it again.

Stubbs

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#21 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:54:43 pm
Earl is probably one of the top hard bouldering crangs in't country.  Will prob be up this weekend, so might see you there.

cofe

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#22 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 09, 2005, 03:58:16 pm
less than hour to almscliff/caley.

Bubba

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#23 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 10, 2005, 01:16:35 am
Quote from: "squeek"
Troll!  Quick ban him! ;)


Damn, I'll get back under my bridge.

For the record, Earl is a fantastic crag.

Jim

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#24 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 10, 2005, 06:38:00 am
earl gets my vote, awesome crag

you should have named this thread 'desert island crag' (but obviously it'd be a cold desert island with good conditions) and no pun intended with the arete been at earl either

Johnny Brown

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#25 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 10, 2005, 12:52:35 pm
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less than hour to almscliff/caley


in what? A helicopter? Or do you leave for the crag at 5am?

Caley is the best bouldering in the uk. Shame its usually either midgy or wet

a dense loner

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#26 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 10, 2005, 01:19:46 pm
Quote
The best bouldering area in Ireland is Glendalough, no doubt about that. How it compares to the UK I don't really know


it doesn't

webbo

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#27 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 08:48:15 am
Quote from: "dave"
personally speaking i've always said that the best stuff at glendalough was the same quality as the best suff anywhere.

Below that quality level i found that it seemed to drop off quite quick into the territory of "locals" problems, i.e. low roofs in scree, dodgier landings, lip traverses etc. In many ways this can be good though cos theres pleanty for locals to go back for, and at the same time a visitor can feel like they've pollished off the bulk of quality up to their grade in a couple of visits. I don't think its quote got the depth of quality of some places, but its very good and got some amazing stuff.


going there on my own in summer.i found that iwas limited by what was safe to try even with two mats.there were some good problems but it seemed first division rather than premier league.
i thought the sad and lonely boulder was as good as any thing in glendalough.

cofe

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#28 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 09:21:15 am
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
Quote
less than hour to almscliff/caley


in what? A helicopter?


er, yes. how else do you think i travel.

if the chopper is at Marks' with lady fame getting her bits then i've been known to do said journey in similar time in a seat ibiza, and scouse's proton - remember pulling up at caley in the latter as jonny wilkinson drop goaled for the world cup.

Dave Flanagan

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#29 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 09:22:20 am
Quote from: "webbo"

i thought the sad and lonely boulder was as good as any thing in glendalough.


Should of gone into Glenmacnass itself plenty more like that.

dave

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#30 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 09:37:19 am
Quote from: "cofe"
and scouse's proton - remember pulling up at caley in the latter as jonny wilkinson drop goaled for the world cup.


ahh yes, that was whats known in the trade as perfick timing.

llandudno to home in 1.5 was also pretty word. no huey required.

andy_e

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#31 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 09:41:52 am
does scouse's proton still work? i would think it's not got much left in it, i've seen it being driven, first saw it being driven through the bushes at the right-hand end of Raven Tor!

Scouse D

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#32 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 09:46:15 am
It's working better than ever I'll have you know. Them Malaysians sure know how to build an engine, although they need to work on the windows.
Best hundred quid I ever spent.

andy_e

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#33 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 09:53:11 am
does it have cheap insurance too? apart from looking like a heap of shite it must be tough, reckon i'd get the piss taken at college for driving in in one of those, but it could be handy for those clandestine lunch-break brownstones trips! how many mats can you fit in?

dave

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#34 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 09:53:33 am
Quote
although they need to work on the windows.


word to that. but of course then you'd miss out on magic moments like cruising down the motorway with all the doors open. :8)

Scouse D

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#35 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 10:10:41 am
Quote from: "andi_e"
does it have cheap insurance too? ?

Quote from: "scouse D"
Fairly

Quote from: "andi_e"
apart from looking like a heap of shite it must be tough, reckon i'd get the piss taken at college for driving in in one of those,

Quote from: "scouse D"
fuck off

Quote from: "andi_e"
but it could be handy for those clandestine lunch-break brownstones trips! how many mats can you fit in?

Quote from: "scouse D"
3 pods in the boot

andy_e

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#36 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 10:12:06 am
you should enter it for Pimp My Ride

webbo

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#37 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 10:21:39 am
Quote from: "Dave Flanagan"
Quote from: "webbo"

i thought the sad and lonely boulder was as good as any thing in glendalough.


Should of gone into Glenmacnass itself plenty more like that.


yeah i wanted to but 40 mins walk in to the wilderness on my own with variable weather put me off.if i'd fallen and dinged myself i bet nobody would have found me yet.

dave

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#38 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 10:22:00 am
I'd love to see the proton in a duo-tone metalic blue-yellow paintjob, gullwing doors, ice-white leather interior, flames painted on the wheelarches, 1920s style running-boards fitted, bonnet air intake, dukes of hasard style CB radio, dropped suspension, finished off with 20inch chrome spinners.

andy_e

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#39 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 10:29:38 am
and tim westwood going yeah! homeboys word dis is da ride of a well mint dude innit ma homeys checkit. and then the wheels fall off.

cofe

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#40 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 10:49:23 am
if anyone is wondering what scouse's car looks like, here's a watercolour i just knocked out:


andy_e

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#41 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 12:32:36 pm
quality man, all those bent panels, eh?

Scouse D

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#42 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 12:45:15 pm
this is the proton engine


It's fuelled by MAGMA for fuck's sake
It's fantastic, pyroclastic, drastic, good.

andy_e

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#43 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 12:48:52 pm
you resparayed the engine bay? or is that not your car?
MAGMA its lava good. more camp than a row of pink tents. more rust than a shipbreaker's yard.

Stubbs

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#44 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 01:07:36 pm
What is that, 5 litre V12?

andy_e

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#45 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 01:09:05 pm
no its a diesel 2-stroke 50cc sewing machine engine. my uncle's got a fridge freezer engine with more power than that thing.

Scouse D

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#46 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 01:11:00 pm
Quote from: "Stubbs"
What is that, 5 litre V12?


That's right it's got litres and valves and all that jazz

Scouse D

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#47 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 01:12:20 pm
Quote from: "andi_e"
no its a diesel 2-stroke 50cc sewing machine engine. my uncle's got a fridge freezer engine with more power than that thing.

Quote from: "mean mutha"
This bitch needs to learn some respect.

cofe

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#48 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 01:14:28 pm
i thought it was V8+.


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#49 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 02:14:12 pm
:D

Stubbs

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#50 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 12, 2005, 02:31:43 pm
(Insert pictures of drums and cymbals, or basil brush saying 'boom boom' here)
 :lol:

andy_e

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#51 Where is the best bouldering in the UK?
September 13, 2005, 10:38:53 am

BOOM BOOM

 

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