UKBouldering.com

Fontainbleau 7a virgin seeks problems with GSOH (Read 14860 times)

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
Quote from: "a dense loner"
Quote
cortomaltese is an good one


read my above post... this problem is wank, overated by everybody n their dog. how high can you jump off a kerb? that is all it is.

have you done this leesa?!

KH

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 154
  • Karma: +8/-0
Quote from: "dave"
remembered another couple of middling 7as. chasseur de prises at rocher canon is a good un (that whole area is great, some real quality easier problems) and also surplomb de bivouac at 95.2.


Agree with surplomb de bivouac at 95.2.  Great problem with nice moves but should be straight forward for most people climbing near or around this grade.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
Quote from: "saltbeef"
Quote from: "a dense loner"
Quote
cortomaltese is an good one


read my above post... this problem is wank, overated by everybody n their dog. how high can you jump off a kerb? that is all it is.

have you done this leesa?!

He claims to have done  :?:
Have you still got my pof word?

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
yeah was using it on the grit this weekend...

dave

  • Guest
dunno if anyones mentioned it but another good un is araignee at cuvier. can't remember if its 7a or + but its very good and kinda unlikely which makes it special. much better than charcuterie i recon. its like grab a pair of wack undercuts (maybe that should be "underslopes"?), paste feet on fuck all and go for the good hold - just believe. match it footless then head left to the great top section of charcut. wicked.

Stubbs

  • Guest
Is medaille en chocolat any good?

sto

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 13
  • Karma: +0/-0
Quote from: "a dense loner"
Quote
cortomaltese is an good one


read my above post... this problem is wank, overated by everybody n their dog. how high can you jump off a kerb? that is all it is.


Maybe for good climbers cortomaltese is boringly easy but I remember trying it over several visits and getting nowhere then once when I felt much closer than usual I noticed that I landed on the ground b/w the pad and the problem. Duh. The trick was just to jump parallel with the wall, scraping your nose. Once we saw this my mate got it next go and I got it next go. Maybe obvious but FELT SO satisfying to use the braino a little bit rather than just throwing and throwing like a demented lemming as usual.

dave

  • Guest
Quote from: "Stubbs"
Is medaille en chocolat any good?


medaille used to be brilliant, but i've not done it since the chipping incident. I doubt it will have changed much though, its probably still a classic. I bet dense hates it.

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
Quote from: "dave"
I bet dense hates it.


He really is the Victor Meldrew of ukbouldering isn't he.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1372
  • Karma: +73/-2
cortomaltese is a good problem and one of my favourites. Holey moley is excellent but hard work for the tick. Araignee (sp) at cuvier is still one of my favourite in the forest.

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1454
  • Karma: +84/-6
A good 7a to check out would be le joker at bas cuvier. its on the same block as las marie rose so it's easy to find, its defined in the guide as being the upper limits of the sixes, and i reckon is a a good introduction to 7a style climbing as its a little bit technical and a tad powerful at the top.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
Quote from: "dave"
dunno if anyones mentioned it but another good un is araignee at cuvier. can't remember if its 7a or + but its very good and kinda unlikely which makes it special. much better than charcuterie i recon. its like grab a pair of wack undercuts (maybe that should be "underslopes"?), paste feet on fuck all and go for the good hold - just believe. match it footless then head left to the great top section of charcut. wicked.

not a good introduction into the 7a band tho eh?
pulling ons hard enough and suits the tall.
7a in the guide
http://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html

tubbs

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 59
  • Karma: +0/-0
medaille used to be brilliant, but i've not done it since the chipping incident. I doubt it will have changed much though, its probably still a classic. I bet dense hates it

What got chipped and when - was planning to give this a retry in a couple of weeks.

dave

  • Guest
some holds got knocked off it years ago when some guy when radio-rental  and knocked holds of loads of famous stuff. don't think it lakes much odds to medaille though as theres a fair few holds to choose from.

zemike

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 37
  • Karma: +2/-0
what about beetlejuice and excalibur in the "new cusinere" (on the hill to the right) quality moves for the grade...
or  le bivouac at rempart (though it might be harder a fter a hold broke) or le surplomb de whateveritwas (the single block behind isatis) from the sitter or little karma in isatis (or vin rouge/isatis if your into jumping)- also excellent and no sandbags...

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
Quote
medaille used to be brilliant, but i've not done it since the chipping incident. I doubt it will have changed much though, its probably still a classic. I bet dense hates it.


that's were you're wrong, it involves climbing. it's brilliant, amazing, fantastic. what i was trying to say before you philistines started going on was that cortomaltese is on everybody's tick list cos it's a one move jump, so you can try it a thousand times without actually doing any climbing. it really is toss. o saltus beefus i have done it many times. zemikis is right on with beetle n excaliber, however little karma from sit is shit while from standing is bo

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
agreed on little karma

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9942
  • Karma: +561/-9
At 7a+ Salathe wall at Rempart is tres bon, especially if you are a campus monkey.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
that does look good lovejoy. not been to rempart yet. its on my list defo for this year me thinks

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1372
  • Karma: +73/-2
Quote from: "Jim"
that does look good lovejoy. not been to rempart yet. its on my list defo for this year me thinks

You ain't lived Jim, it's gonna blow your tiny mind

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
it's ok for you guys stayin over here this year. i've got to pack for font now :wink:

Lostboy

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 69
  • Karma: +1/-0
Quote from: "sto"
An easy 7a in the forest is Ca Pell au Logis at Gorge aux Chats.


I can vouch for this problem as a good 1st 7a, once you've got the sequence worked out, theres no real hard moves

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal