[sharkey]

Any pointers would be a great help, looking to break into the magical grade there, have only really played on circuits before. Have heard of Toit Cul de Chien and La couer are these good starters.

[Bonjoy]

Any pointers would be a great help, looking to break into the magical grade there, have only really played on circuits before. Have heard of Toit Cul de Chien and La couer are these good starters.

 The former is easy to mid 7a, but quite excitingly high for a first 7a, the latter I found quite hard for 7a, but others find it easy.
 Kaline de Kim, Deltaroc, Clin d'oiel, L'Egoiste are all piss.

[a dense loner]

kaline de kim is toss, in that it doesn't have a natural line, easy to sneak off etc. la couer is quite hard for grade, unless your particular penchant is crimping. the obvious one people point out at cuvier, the slap, is toss. a particularly good couple are at cuvier just left n just right of mur mur

[cofe]

don't listen to lovejoy, cul de chien is a great 7a if it isn't 6c+...it was one of my first ones, if it isn't 6c+...

[Bonjoy]

Didn't I just say that it was easy to middling you great spacky-div-lord?

[Jim]

Have heard of Toit Cul de Chien and La couer are these good starters

dispite doing 5 one-armers at said crag a certain fred nicolealike failed repeatedly on la couer, as i have just been reminded by jim. this is dense btw. so i should stay clear unless, of course, you can do 6  

[sharkey]

Thanks for the replys so far,
 don't get me wrong i,m not just looking for soft touches, just  good problems in the forrest and no sandbags, i have seen a picture of Graviton ?, that problem looks mean, is it as hard as it looks?

[dave]

i never got that psyched for graviton, seems overrated to me, i.e. piss climbing to a crux topout.

cortomaltese is an good one whihc can be piss thought its easy to spend an entire trip trying it. twat de cul de chien is bo, more of a knack thing really but wierd all the same. i foudn bring the left foot inside your left hand and heel-toeing in the back of the roof(instead of heelhooking where the peg is) was key for me.

impasse du hasard at cuisiniere is great and middling. la coeur at elephant is good but to be honest not that enjoyable to work as it canes the skin on one hand. el pousahh is superb but a nightmare and certainly not a good for a first crack at.

[dontfollowme]

Anyone know where La bailene is? I saw a photo of it on the big up productions site in the behind the scenes photos.

[dave]

think there a few problems of that name in font but if you mean this onw (the most well known) its at petit bois:

[squeek]

I found Les Monos ok, the standup jumps into a positive stereo, and there's some big holds on top which you can make sure are clean and examine before you try the problem.

[cofe]

a positive stereo

crazy language squeek, is this like a hi-fi that always looks on the bright side?

[Jim]

Dense, it was cul de chein that fred-a-alike couldn't do. La Couer is fuckin nails unless your tall. La balaine is very good at petit bois. cortomaltese I can't touch because the starting holds are poff'd to death and are minging

[squeek]

Festin de Pierre is a very good 7a at Cuvier Rampart.  The move with the heel hook is a little tricky, but the picture in the 7+8 guide shows you what you should be doing.  Good holds on top too, I don't like hard top outs, I think they're unfair!

[Stubbs]

Did a 7a roof at sabot called jeau du toit which was tres bon, probably a good 7a if you like steep stuff.

[sto]

An easy 7a in the forest is Ca Pell au Logis at Gorge aux Chats. I know because I flashed it and the very small handful of other 7as I've done required mucho work. One throw to a good slopey crimp is the only hardish bit. The real hard part is not rubbing your back on the rock behind. Cortomaltese at BC and Jeux de Toit at Sabot are also doable. Graviton is a nice mantle but it's eliminate which is annoying. Apparently you only get 7a if you go straight up from the slopey ridge. If you use any holds on the left it's easier according to locals.  

Also for the record there is a mistake in 7+8 which gives 7a to a 4c jump start mantle on the back of the Memel bouldeer at Isatis.

Have fun!

[Jim]

Also for the record there is a mistake in 7+8 which gives 7a to a 4c jump start mantle on the back of the Memel bouldeer at Isatis.

Have fun!

SHHHHH!

Everyone I know's taken that tick.

Gravitron is very good and slightly eliminatey. finish direct for the 7a or left on good holds for 6b

http://bleau.info/sabots/782.html

a good one to go for the flash as its fairly basic as long as you remember to look for the footholds! (can't miss em due to donkey lines)

[a dense loner]

cortomaltese is an good one

read my above post... this problem is wank, overated by everybody n their dog. how high can you jump off a kerb? that is all it is.
impasse de hazard is 7a+ n is quite hard, certainly not a good first 7a.
problem at apremont, where shoot is, at the back is one of the best probs i have done in the forest. will tell you the name when i locate guide. poetry in motion, tho that's not the name

[dave]

impasse de hazard is 7a+ n is quite hard, certainly not a good first 7a

when we did it the guide said 7a+ (pink guide) and doing it with the pictured sequence in that guide it certinaly felt so. But more recently we did it again with a much easier sequence (i.e. matching sidepull with feet low instead of the foot2hand move), its now 7a in the 7+8 guide i notice, and with the good sequence its pretty straightforward i seem to remember.

[ferret]

not boasting but i flashd la coeur and im 5'7. bit tricky for shorties as you have to match bottom of the crack with oppo gastons b4 gaining the good bit. hard 4 7a but truly great line the moves are a bit strange needs cold conditions and a lot of psche, watch the boulder at the bottom! la baleine at petit bois is amazing again not a gimme requires mats and spotter. also excalibur at cuisinere is particularly fine. and dont forget la joker for that piece of font history, deffo nails if ya short tho. cortamaltese is ok but hardly a font classic, not 7a if ya a giant. try holey moley instead, real climbing various sequences. all this being said most font 7as are excellent best grade in the forest.....enjoy  

[Carnage]

One of the easiest 7a ticks (dunno if it been mentioned already) is the one to the left of Hip-Hop at Boissy- Absolute piss. Good little spot tho but only worth a visit if you're staying close by.

[dave]

remembered another couple of middling 7as. chasseur de prises at rocher canon is a good un (that whole area is great, some real quality easier problems) and also surplomb de bivouac at 95.2.

[Scouse D]

impasse de hazard is 7a+ n is quite hard, certainly not a good first 7a

when we did it the guide said 7a+ (pink guide) and doing it with the pictured sequence in that guide it certinaly felt so. But more recently we did it again with a much easier sequence (i.e. matching sidepull with feet low instead of the foot2hand move), its now 7a in the 7+8 guide i notice, and with the good sequence its pretty straightforward i seem to remember.

Would that be another example of a shit scouse sequence Dave?

[dave]

yes it was a shit sequence. easier yes, better quality, no. :wink:

[a dense loner]

not boasting but i flashd la coeur

glad someone else got their willy out first :wink: i did as well. mr jonathan brown should be having words with you soon about a trip to your neck of the woods.

holey moley is bo n i can't do it :evil:

[saltbeef]

cortomaltese is an good one

read my above post... this problem is wank, overated by everybody n their dog. how high can you jump off a kerb? that is all it is.

have you done this leesa?!

[KH]

remembered another couple of middling 7as. chasseur de prises at rocher canon is a good un (that whole area is great, some real quality easier problems) and also surplomb de bivouac at 95.2.

Agree with surplomb de bivouac at 95.2.  Great problem with nice moves but should be straight forward for most people climbing near or around this grade.

[Jim]

cortomaltese is an good one

read my above post... this problem is wank, overated by everybody n their dog. how high can you jump off a kerb? that is all it is.

have you done this leesa?!

He claims to have done  :?:
Have you still got my pof word?

[saltbeef]

yeah was using it on the grit this weekend...

[dave]

dunno if anyones mentioned it but another good un is araignee at cuvier. can't remember if its 7a or + but its very good and kinda unlikely which makes it special. much better than charcuterie i recon. its like grab a pair of wack undercuts (maybe that should be "underslopes"?), paste feet on fuck all and go for the good hold - just believe. match it footless then head left to the great top section of charcut. wicked.

[Stubbs]

Is medaille en chocolat any good?

[sto]

cortomaltese is an good one

read my above post... this problem is wank, overated by everybody n their dog. how high can you jump off a kerb? that is all it is.

Maybe for good climbers cortomaltese is boringly easy but I remember trying it over several visits and getting nowhere then once when I felt much closer than usual I noticed that I landed on the ground b/w the pad and the problem. Duh. The trick was just to jump parallel with the wall, scraping your nose. Once we saw this my mate got it next go and I got it next go. Maybe obvious but FELT SO satisfying to use the braino a little bit rather than just throwing and throwing like a demented lemming as usual.

[dave]

Is medaille en chocolat any good?

medaille used to be brilliant, but i've not done it since the chipping incident. I doubt it will have changed much though, its probably still a classic. I bet dense hates it.

[AndyR]

I bet dense hates it.

He really is the Victor Meldrew of ukbouldering isn't he.

[Scouse D]

cortomaltese is a good problem and one of my favourites. Holey moley is excellent but hard work for the tick. Araignee (sp) at cuvier is still one of my favourite in the forest.

[Moo]

A good 7a to check out would be le joker at bas cuvier. its on the same block as las marie rose so it's easy to find, its defined in the guide as being the upper limits of the sixes, and i reckon is a a good introduction to 7a style climbing as its a little bit technical and a tad powerful at the top.

[Jim]

dunno if anyones mentioned it but another good un is araignee at cuvier. can't remember if its 7a or + but its very good and kinda unlikely which makes it special. much better than charcuterie i recon. its like grab a pair of wack undercuts (maybe that should be "underslopes"?), paste feet on fuck all and go for the good hold - just believe. match it footless then head left to the great top section of charcut. wicked.

not a good introduction into the 7a band tho eh?
pulling ons hard enough and suits the tall.
7a in the guide
http://bleau.info/cuvier/188.html

[tubbs]

medaille used to be brilliant, but i've not done it since the chipping incident. I doubt it will have changed much though, its probably still a classic. I bet dense hates it

What got chipped and when - was planning to give this a retry in a couple of weeks.

[dave]

some holds got knocked off it years ago when some guy when radio-rental  and knocked holds of loads of famous stuff. don't think it lakes much odds to medaille though as theres a fair few holds to choose from.

[zemike]

what about beetlejuice and excalibur in the "new cusinere" (on the hill to the right) quality moves for the grade...
or  le bivouac at rempart (though it might be harder a fter a hold broke) or le surplomb de whateveritwas (the single block behind isatis) from the sitter or little karma in isatis (or vin rouge/isatis if your into jumping)- also excellent and no sandbags...

[a dense loner]

medaille used to be brilliant, but i've not done it since the chipping incident. I doubt it will have changed much though, its probably still a classic. I bet dense hates it.

that's were you're wrong, it involves climbing. it's brilliant, amazing, fantastic. what i was trying to say before you philistines started going on was that cortomaltese is on everybody's tick list cos it's a one move jump, so you can try it a thousand times without actually doing any climbing. it really is toss. o saltus beefus i have done it many times. zemikis is right on with beetle n excaliber, however little karma from sit is shit while from standing is bo

[Jim]

agreed on little karma

[Bonjoy]

At 7a+ Salathe wall at Rempart is tres bon, especially if you are a campus monkey.

[Jim]

that does look good lovejoy. not been to rempart yet. its on my list defo for this year me thinks

[Scouse D]

that does look good lovejoy. not been to rempart yet. its on my list defo for this year me thinks

You ain't lived Jim, it's gonna blow your tiny mind

[a dense loner]

it's ok for you guys stayin over here this year. i've got to pack for font now :wink:

[Lostboy]

An easy 7a in the forest is Ca Pell au Logis at Gorge aux Chats.

I can vouch for this problem as a good 1st 7a, once you've got the sequence worked out, theres no real hard moves