[ned]

I have a few questions about the wonderful Raven Tor.

1 - Which holds are the accepted start to staminaband? Does it pull on the two side by side pockets, or further right on the big flake type thing?

2 - Which holds does Bens Roof start on? I was trying it off a sharp 2 finger pocket (right hand) and a big rounded sidepull (left hand), but it felt as if I was starting too high?

3 - Finally, is there an accepted sequence for Blueband or is it just a simple eliminate? I got told it took the big pinch with the right hand and crossed through to the next crimp/pinch. It felt very hard this way but I could do it by going again from the first pinch, to the next crimp/pinch, then matching (still felt hard!).

This felt a bit like cheating, and im sure i cant climb 7c+, so i was surprised to do it. Or do i have to go back once i have got more crossing-through strength?!

Thanks

[dave]

2 - Which holds does Bens Roof start on? I was trying it off a sharp 2 finger pocket (right hand) and a big rounded sidepull (left hand), but it felt as if I was starting too high?

i start LH on big rounded sidepull thing (often damp, its where you heel-toe later on) and RH on a little positive thin pinch thing on same level as it, then first move is going RH up into the good gaston/pocket thing (also often damp in the back) with a heelbar for right foot.

think that crossover thig on blueband can be alright with feet in the right place - not sure if its in the rules, would have thought as long as you're not using the jug pocket its OK.

[Bonjoy]

Stam band starts on big flake right of the pockets.
 Blueband is an eliminate with fairly strict rules (hence the name Strict Blueband). Matching the edge (or amtching any of the holds for that matter) is  not allowed. A few of the pockets are not allowed either, including the vertical finger jam midway, the pocket above the edge/pinch and the last pocket before the dropdown.

[ned]

I start LH on big rounded sidepull thing (often damp, its where you heel-toe later on) and RH on a little positive thin pinch thing on same level as it

Thanks, I wasnt sure which holds to start on, as there seem to be so many!

Stam band starts on big flake right of the pockets.
Blueband is an eliminate with fairly strict rules (hence the name Strict Blueband). Matching the edge (or matching any of the holds for that matter) is not allowed. A few of the pockets are not allowed either, including the vertical finger jam midway, the pocket above the edge/pinch and the last pocket before the dropdown.

Cheers, i knew that those holds were not in, but i didnt realise matching isnt allowed.  Ill try the crossthrough next time im there.

[Andy Harris]

That's what I like to see, approved sequences at the Tor.

Dave is spot on with Ben's roof. A lot of people do start a move or 2 in (tut tut!).

Staminaband is a little more questionable. Jason Myers always used to start on the big flakes although most start a move further in. Basically you shouldn't be starting on either of the twin pockets.

Blueband is a bit of a contrived eliminate but better all the same and harder to boot. The big thing is starting at the finishing u'cut jugs of Powerband this makes quite a difference to starting just left of centre. The big footholds at the bottom of the middle section never used to exist (and to be honest would be fairly useless unless you were v.tall) so the cross through moves revolves around a small square cut edge in the centre of the wall. When you get to the end try coming along the Powerband or vice vesa for a harder tick.

[ned]

Oh the knowledge! Thanks for clearing that up.

Is the

small square cut edge

The little thing at about waist level (higher than the other footholds) out to the right of the pinch holds?

When you get to the end try coming along the Powerband or vice vesa for a harder tick

Steady on, ive got to do the thing "properly" first!

[a dense loner]

Matching the edge (or amtching any of the holds for that matter) is not allowed. A few of the pockets are not allowed either, including the vertical finger jam midway, the pocket above the edge/pinch and the last pocket before the dropdown.

 :shock: this is why i have only climbed on lime twice this year, n consequently why i'm still weak

[Andy Harris]

The little thing at about waist level (higher than the other footholds) out to the right of the pinch holds?

- that will be the one

[saltbeef]

so, yesterday i went on rattle and hump. so you move off the jug with r. foot on the smear,  outside left on the edge, press into the crimp, r. foot onto the edge down and right of the jug, twist in on that shoulder and slap the pinch, is there an easier way of doing this? or should i just persist with my sequence and hope my fingers get a bit stronger...

[Bonjoy]

Sounds about right. Holds have changed since I did it so my sequence may not be doable now.

[saltbeef]

i'll try and man up then.