[Bonjoy]

From 8a.nu:

Richard Simpson has been on a trip to Frankenjura where he managed to do Infinity, 8c+ and five 8c's which was in fact six but he suggested 8b+ for Ronin. His best onsight was Subway, 8b and he goes to #11 in the world ranking. Richard plans to go back in September to find better conditions for Action Direct. Interview is comming up for the guy who, with one fingers, has done 1-4-7 on the campus board!

 Effort.

[a dense loner]

good work from that guy. also read that among his ticks was wall street, the worlds first 8c from wolfgang. he's gotta be a happy man

[dave]

word

[vivahate]

waddage

[Bubba]

definite waddage

[vivahate]

i bet he's gutted about not getting Action Directe, who else has repeated it since Wolfgang?

Im other Rich Simpson wad news in his moon interview he said he did pinky perky with a 5kg weight belt! thats silly strength

[dave]

Im other Rich Simpson wad news in his moon interview he said he did pinky perky with a 5kg weight belt! thats silly strength

He's also done superman.

effort word.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

[squeek]

i bet he's gutted about not getting Action Directe, who else has repeated it since Wolfgang?

Iker Pou has, don't know about anyone else.  Says on the website that Rich is going back in a couple of months to try Action Direct when the conditions are better.  

Good effort to Mr 8c btw.

[Bubba]

Apparantly, Christian Bindhammer,  Alexander Adler, Iker Pou and Dave Graham are the four repeaters.

Five ascents in 14 years and not for lack of people trying. Makes you realize how groundbreaking the Gullich was.

[dobbin]

apparently he only sacked it cos he ran out of time and was too hot. Did it with only one rest so assuming better conditions and no lack of form for the simpmeister then he should bag it up in September.

Plus, if he needs psyche - I'm going in September. I will show him the moves  :wink:

[dave]

has crackenjura8c ever been on the brandenburg gate gaskins project at john craven tor? he aughta get to it.

[Buoux 8C]

Dobbin, what dates are you heading out to the jura and who with?

Regarding ascents of action, Gullich, Alex Adler, Iker Pou, Dave graham, Christian Bindhammer.

Full respect to Gullich and all repeaters, it truly is a hard climb, possibly harder than anything else of similar length and style in the world, and after 12 or so years is still pretty much cutting edge i reckon.

Ran out of time this trip to properly try the route since it was pretty much always in the 30's so very hot and the route really needs good friciton, heading back out in september/october with newly loved up unclesomebody, so fingers crossed.

some photos of other stuff on Moon site

https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=photo_detail&photo_id=48&offset=36

https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=photo_detail&photo_id=50&offset=36

First is a very nice 8c+ infinity, crossing the whole of eldorado and taking up the cruxes of very bouldery 7c+, 8b, 8c, and 8b+ routes and also adding hard moves of its own, about 25 moves on one and two finger pockets power resistance climbing really cool.

second is a really cool 8b, very boulerey mayve a 7c/7c+ boulder on one and two finger pockets.

if anyone gets the chance to head out the the jura then you definetly not regret it, its an amazing place.

[dave]

looks good if i ignore the monos. does the kids playground have one of those little horse things mounted on a spring? that would be the icing on the cake.

[Yossarian]

that infinity looks pretty fierce...

so come on, give us the lowdown on the cakes and beer!

[dobbin]

Rich - myself, Roy Moseley & his missus, Andy Harris and Siobhan and Buzzmaster Buzby will all be tearing it up in the Jura from 10 September.

I shall send you a text - effort on infinity!

[SA Chris]

I give up trying to post links to pictures.

Sometimes it just wont work.

[dobbin]

sorry - will be there for a week! roy, andy and the rest are out for another week after taht.