[andy_e]

turns out the bmc want me to do the topo for wimberry boulders. anyone know any problems not in Ru's guide?

[Rice Boy]

The left arete next to elephants bum listed on yorkshire grit as a V4.

Thought the climbing was quite different to the Font 6c slab in the new guide.

Give fish arete 4 stars!

[andy_e]

yeah fish arete is sweeet. i've already looked on yorskhire grit and got all the consensus grades, now i need to go there and do them.

[a dense loner]

what? don't you live in lancashire? is this for a gcse project?

[andy_e]

no its for a "Comprehensive BMC guidebook" project, why?

[a dense loner]

"comprehensive?". you haven't been n done any of the probs, don't know any of the probs, except having looked at the 6 probs on yorkshiregrit or ru's guide, how comprehensive is it going to be? am quite intrigued

[Jim]

[BenF]

Other than the crap stuff over to the right of the Fish boulder (with a problem called Directissima), there's a couple of reasonable problems just up and left of the Fish boulder.  If I remember rightly... a left to right traverse at about v4 and a powerful sitstart rounded arete thing just up and right of Fish boulder.  Both are pretty good, not that hard and probably worth including.

Then there's some poor problems left of Miles' Slab.  And more up the hill, as well as some good stuff.  However, if this is gonna be a comprehensive guide, there's going to be a fair bit of non-quality going in.  

There is also a slopey sitstart arete just up the stream from the Sloping top boulder.  Just below the path before you get to the easy stuff and often hidden by bracken.  IMO worth including.

[cofe]

assume it's for the moorland grit guide...

[a dense loner]

There is also a slopey sitstart arete just up the stream from the Sloping top boulder. Just below the path before you get to the easy stuff and often hidden by bracken. IMO worth including.

this is already in the guide

Then there's some poor problems left of Miles' Slab

including my first FA a slopey traverse at 6b. the word poor doesn't belong

[BenF]

To be utterly pedantic... I'm not sure the slopey sit start I mentioned (up from sloping top) is in the guide.  There is one described, at about 7a with a slopey landing close to the stream if I remember rightly, but its just up from the stream boulders, not below them.  I refer to the right arete of a small boulder (could be anything in the Peak huh?) about 10 metres before the crap little boulders by the path that crosses the stream.  And it has a perfectly good landing.  

Anyway, it's not really important in the grand scheme of things.  Just me being pedantic.

[Jim]

This problem is called suede, usually covered in braken, FA moi. there is a project traverse coming in from the left on hideous slopers.

[a dense loner]

tis true, had forgotten about this little gem.when you said easy probs thought you was on about the easy probs a bit further up

[BenF]

I'm glad my pendantry paid off!  And that my bad description managed to confuse you...  "Easy problems" was a little vague to enable you to locate the problem eh?

To expand on my first post, the traverse (L-R on lip) across to the left (about 10 metres) of the Fish boulder is pretty good actually.  Some lovely slopers and a good warm presuming it's not feckin' hot.  Worth including I'd say.  As is the rounded arete from sitter uphill from said traverse.

[a dense loner]

def worth including, the traverse is a brilliant warm up.

[BenF]

I'd also put in the easy slab just round the corner (right) of Fish Arete, ie the descent!  Another useful warm up at about V1 and a handy grade for those that don't climb that hard.  Plus it's actually a nice problem.

And then there's the starting arete of the Coarse Traverse; sitstart, rocking onto the top after a couple of moves and before you start heading right on the slopers.  A nice V3ish thing worth including on a "definitive" topo.

[BenF]

Oh yeah, since we're talking definitive here...  theres a sitstart arete on a block just before you get to Miles' Slab, just down and facing towards the trees.  Hard first move on little crimps then a couple of pleasant moves to the top.  A bit unclassic, about v5/6, but okay if you've done everything else (which I haven't in case you think I've done the project dyno, westside etc ).

And then there's all the stuff further up the hill...

[Rice Boy]

Westside?

[andy_e]

actually "comprehensive" means including everything, where did you go to school to mislearn that meaning? i've been so many times i'm practically a local anyway.
BenF: thanks bud, i'll make sure i give them a look next time i'm up there
Cofe: sure is buddy.

[andy_e]

does anybody know about the crag on the other side of the gully to the main crag on the left side of the crag? could be some good problems.

[BenF]

Westside?

Doh!  It was last day of term, so that's my excuse for being dumb and calling "Stateside" by the wrong name..  Either that or I was just being street and betraying my gansta background.

[a dense loner]

there is no other bouldering worth doing, apart from binn green car park, i have scoured everywhere in the dim n distant past

[Jim]

binn green is the shit yo

[al]

remeber doing some esoteric stuff up on the duckstones and a bit just left of charnel stones(well left of 'wastelands' area), with 'pingham' - not sure if this is what you mean by opposite the crag - remember a good traverse at the ducks, actually, now the alzimers medication is cutting in :?

[Rice Boy]

Was out on Sunday evening and experienced virgin friction, where if you didn't get it first time you were going home. Thing is that first time was like allotment grown potatoes!

Start of Route 2 ain't bad but then again you may think there's enough on the boulders below.