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Favourite routes at each grade (Read 17086 times)

squeek

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#25 Favourite routes at each grade
July 21, 2005, 11:49:43 am
>hardy annual kilnsey

As a quick side note, we were going to try this the other day and in both our guides it's down as a sports route.  We could see a couple of bolts lower down along with threads and the lower off at the top, but couldn't see any bolts up the groove.  Are there bolts there, or do you use threads? (or secret option 3 I was looking at the wrong route, it starts left of and moves into the large groove, yes?)

webbo

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#26 Favourite routes at each grade
July 21, 2005, 12:05:40 pm
bearing in mind i did this 10+ years ago i not sure how accurate my info is.i remember there beig some a bolt low down on the start then some threads and a wanky old aid bolt where it joins super direct.i failed on s/d years before cos i was too wimpy to trust this bolt.when you get higher there are bolts on the left of the groove,placed so you can't clip them from s/d.crux is last couple of moves not too hard as i managed to flash it after watching my mate fail on it.

Andy F

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#27 Favourite routes at each grade
July 21, 2005, 01:08:03 pm
Quote from: "squeek"
>hardy annual kilnsey

As a quick side note, we were going to try this the other day and in both our guides it's down as a sports route.  We could see a couple of bolts lower down along with threads and the lower off at the top, but couldn't see any bolts up the groove.  Are there bolts there, or do you use threads? (or secret option 3 I was looking at the wrong route, it starts left of and moves into the large groove, yes?)


Hardy Annual is a clip-up. The start is the crux, and quite bold to get to the big ledge (Only the one bolt), with nasty lob potential should you fluff clipping the first theads. After thats it's sustained, but quite easy. The gears is bolts (Off to the left of the route IIRC)/threads all the way to the top.

Bonjoy

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#28 Favourite routes at each grade
July 22, 2005, 08:33:02 am
Did HA a few weeks back, nice route, especially the groove bit. The only threads you clip are right at the start of the groove bit, after that its bolts out left all the way.

Teaboy

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#29 Favourite routes at each grade
July 23, 2005, 12:30:52 am
VS - Eliminate A would beat Mur y Niwl hands down if it was in Wales

HVS -Concrete Chimney

E1 - Unicorn, Glen Coe, did it the same day I did Space Walk, I wish I was still that fit. Hold on, that's not in Wales, I'd better say White Slab on Cloggy instead.

E2 - Equus at Gimmer has some pretty funky climbing on it but as it's not in Wales I'll have to go for Jelly Roll on Cloggy instead.

E3 - T-Rex, Gogarth a big day out.

E4 - I traditionally bang on about Hyndsight on Glyder Fawr but after "climbing"  :oops: the Skull last week I'll have to go for that.

E5 - Right Wall, predictable nut it realy is the best there is (and soft for the grade, which is really important!)

E6 - Hobson's choice and were it not for Jonboy allowing tainted ascents I wouldn't even have that - Lord

UK Sports:

7a Cairn, who'd have thought!
7a+ Niight Glue
7b - Scared Rabbit, Thrang Quarry
7b+ Hamish Teddies, Craig y Bancar
7c Body Machine

Fiend

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#30 Favourite routes at each grade
July 23, 2005, 08:58:46 am
That you, Tyler?

a dense loner

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#31 Favourite routes at each grade
July 23, 2005, 02:54:08 pm
Quote
E6 - Hobson's choice and were it not for Jonboy allowing tainted ascents I wouldn't even have that


good to see amongst all the great n the good that hobson moor still turns heads, mostly the other way but even so...

Fiend

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#32 Favourite routes at each grade
July 23, 2005, 09:25:22 pm
Tighe's Arete is quite nice. That would be on my list of top E1s.....somewhere around number 485.

 

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