Peak based boulderer seeks quick ticks... (Read 30903 times)

Bonjoy · July 22, 2005, 08:56:01 am

The bolting was surprisingly unepic, considering i've never bolted a route before. Aided the route with two ropes on, tied one off to the belay and lowered off on the other, then jummared the fixed rope bolting as I went. Only had to place five bolts (in place of three manky threads and three 17 year old Pollit bolts). The end section of the route already had brand new bolts thanks to aid climbers re-bolting the end of Kyrie Elyson recently.
Was too goosed after bolting to do the route in a oner, but worked all the moves. Absolutely amazing climbing, after a tricky wall section it crosses the huge roof by linking a line of pods, pockets, huecos and undercuts. Some truly wild feet first moves and a hands off 'bat hang' rest on double foot bars, the bit to the chain involve walking your whole legs onto either side of a giant thread before spinning through 180 degrees to match hand and foot on a huge finishing bucket.

SA Chris · July 22, 2005, 09:08:47 am

Sounds like more fun than a barrel of mokeys! What numbers does it get?

dave · July 22, 2005, 09:10:58 am

sounds word. got any photos?

Fiend · July 22, 2005, 09:18:15 am

Nice one Joy....someone should start a bolt fund for these things

.

Bonjoy · July 22, 2005, 09:40:09 am

Was only the two of us at crag so didn't get any pics of the climbing. Have got some pics of the route but will have to montage them together at home before posting. But here's a pic of someone doing it as an aid route:

Gradewise oddly it's given E7 6b in the Northern Limestone book, but it has always been a total clip-up. It's in the E7/8a section of the grade list and I think 8a is about right, i'd say it was harder than Free Monster and Roof Warrior which are as near in style as your likely to find in the UK.

dave · July 22, 2005, 09:43:50 am

presumably chris craggs and alan james thought it was E7 when they did it.

Bubba · July 22, 2005, 09:55:11 am

Out of interest, who did the FFA?

Bonjoy · July 22, 2005, 10:02:24 am

Andy Pollit 1988. Hasn't seen many repeats, presumably cos it stays wet most of the time and more recently cos the fix gear was rotten.

dave · July 22, 2005, 10:07:48 am

theres a photo of someone (nadin?) on it in gordizzle stizzle's uber-book "Da Peak".

Bonjoy · July 22, 2005, 10:11:39 am

What angle is the shot from?

dave · July 22, 2005, 10:16:52 am

the back

Johnny Brown · July 22, 2005, 10:34:01 am

very similar to that aid shot, except the champ looks to be on a bit of a tight rope, and the second doesn't have the casual mid-fag look. Caption: Simon nadin 'the buxton stick-man', is seen flitting up 'Thormen's moth'...
for bonus points, who did the real first ascent?

Bonjoy · July 22, 2005, 10:39:28 am

Bob Dearman, A Cornish, Jeff Morgan 1969

Jeff Morgan used to be in my local climbing club (the Alfreton Mountaineering Club)as a yoot.

dave · July 22, 2005, 10:50:09 am

are you sure he wasn't there as a ute? was it a spohisticated-fancy-dress climbing club?

cofe · July 22, 2005, 11:07:59 am

Quote from: "dave"

are you sure he wasn't there as a ute?

you're thinking of doug willis. he had a ute back in the day.

Bubba · July 22, 2005, 11:10:45 am

Dearman, the gnarly old get

I've heard him scoff about bouldering before so I'll have to remind him how boulderers have been ticking his aid routes

Bonjoy · July 22, 2005, 11:19:22 am

Quote from: "dave"

are you sure he wasn't there as a ute? was it a spohisticated-fancy-dress climbing club?

Yeah, I usually came as a Pontiac Tempest

Johnny Brown · July 22, 2005, 11:44:40 am

Seen Dearman do some amazing things with etriers. He can drill a vertical bolt ladder with the bolts six feet apart :shock:

Plus he spent like three weeks on a patagonian big wall climbing capsule style. The style and the environment haven't really been considered compatable by anyone before or since... gnarly old get fo sho

Bubba · July 22, 2005, 12:39:05 pm

Yeah, Dearman has got some right old tales - I had a little piece he'd written about getting old and the things he used to do - it's a nice bit of writing and I'll try to dig it out.

Bonjoy · August 03, 2005, 08:59:16 am

Good scene at the cave yesterday. Thormen's got a mighty four ascents, me, Keenus, mystery polish beast Slavek and an incredible flash from the Bransby! Bransby received a big round of aplauds from the tourists on completion, but was unable to thank the crowd as he was too busy curled up in a ball retching with exhaustion!
Anyone who can, should go do this route now while it's dry, it is absolutely class. You will not be disappointed, I promise.

cowboyhat · August 03, 2005, 01:33:05 pm

Bransby 'retching with exhaustion'.

Hardly a recommendation.

What do you mean 'it looks quite far?' Evil Kenevil made it look piss... etc.

Bonjoy · August 03, 2005, 01:57:28 pm

True but, to achieve such an extreme level of knackerage you would have to be utilising all the hideous jams used by Bransby to stay on past the normal point of hands opening up fuckedness. Realistically most people drop off well before the goose really comes out. As a redpoint it's ok (as 8as go) so long as you move fast on the horizontal bit.

Johnny Brown · August 03, 2005, 01:59:33 pm

It would be nothing for a man of your calibre cowboy. Get to it y'all. Bear in mind Ben was climbing onsight and as well as near terminal exhaustion he cut his wrists and ankles to ribbons with his jamming camming foot faggottry. Keenus barely broke a sweat on his final redpoint.

Bonjoy · August 03, 2005, 02:38:41 pm

Poorly constructed montage(sp?) of la route:

ned · August 03, 2005, 03:22:16 pm

:shock:
looks amazing