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Friction Confusion at Mother's Pet (Read 922 times)

Bonjoy

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Friction Confusion at Mother's Pet
June 16, 2005, 12:18:59 pm
Noticed in Friction that there was some confusion over the traverse called Pet Whale on Mother's Pet. Just to clarify, Pet Whale is not the traverse as listed in the previous guide but a traverse of the intermittent breaks above it, hence the lower grade. I believe the old low level traverse was not included because the standard way of doing it ie using the low foot ledge for the first half and then eliminating it once the start of Pet Cemetary was reach, seemed too contrived to be worth describing. The old PBG was somewhat vague in its description of the line and it may be the case that it was done originally without the low foothold, can anyone shed any light on this? To my knowledge and the knowledge of other people involved with the guide no one had yet eliminated the ledge for the full length of the low traverse. It sounds like Steve Mac now has (unless anyone know of others beating him too it), thinking it to be Pet Whale and unsurprisingly found it harder than 6b. Looking at it I would imagine it is at the very least 7a, with the option of a very obvious pumpy extension across the hanging ledge to be added.

webbo

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#1 Friction Confusion at Mother's Pet
June 16, 2005, 12:43:46 pm
i've done the middle slopey section without foot ledge last winter when it was the only dry bit of rock around.this bit on its own felt about 7a/7a+

 

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