[Daniel]

Alright then... I know its a route, but Im guessing the crux is fairly low down and protectable with pads?

Anyone done it - how hard would you say it was? (v / font grade?)

And how high is that crux?

Cheers

[dave]

i found the crux to be pedalling your feet up to get rocked over on the big slopey ramp once you've got the good flatties, which is at about 20-25 foot at a very rough guess but i'm not good at guessing heights. I fell off from here onto mats it was OK, probably only like font 6b+ if at floor level but you could still hurt yourself (think kim hurt himself falling off here). you've still got to finish up great slab though, which could be spacey if you've not done it before. its an excellent bit of climbing.

[Bonjoy]

Feet are at about 9 or 10 feet when at the crux. Reach to positive gaston with right, stick left foot up high onto slanting foothold, big rockover.
V3-ish??

[Bonjoy]

Democracy makes that about 12-15 feet up then. For working out heights in feet I usually think, how big does a 7foot giant look and how many of them do you need to stack end on end to reach said point :roll:

[dave]

i try and imagine the route stood next to 20ft crack. the way i remember artless is theres a 2inch footledge at about 5-6 foot which you get stood on, then you can stand up left of the ramp for another good rest, then you fall back right onto the big slopey hold so your hands are then at about 5+1+6ft = 12ft, then you make a couple of moves to the flatties, then rock onto that big sloper at 12foot, so yeah thats about right. maybe it just felt 20-25ft with jovejoys and birkby's spotting :wink:

[nik at work]

Dave is quite tall so can probably just spanzzle the dynamic move (or at the most do a tiny but ungainly pop). If you are a shorty this move is the crux IMHO, and the getting your feet up move after it is probably just as difficult for short people as tall but we don't like to go on and on about it......

There is an awkward semi buried boulder under the start of the route which can provide some fantastic sprained (and possibly broken?) ankles given the opportunity. I would say bonjoy was closer than dave for the height and my guess is going to be 11foot 8.7inches.

[JR]

someone spannered there ankles on it last year, cant remember who...

[Daniel]

Cool - so with a few pads this is a goodie to go for then?

Anyone any other experiences of this?

D.

[Scouse D]

Kim fucked his ankles on it. Basically I pissed it and he got all cocky thinking it'd be easy- unfortunately for him he underestimated my mad skillz and decked. He learnt his lesson the hard way.

[cofe]

Kim fucked his ankles on it. Basically I pissed it and he got all cocky thinking it'd be easy- unfortunately for him he underestimated my mad skillz and decked. He learnt his lesson the hard way.

genius.

it's about V3 ish with no noticeable crux, unless you're 4 foot tall in which case it sucks to be you.

[dave]

no noticeable crux, except the one bit thats harder than the rest of it.

[Daniel]

So 2 people have said its about V3-ish. How on earth does it get a grade of english 6b then?

[Bonjoy]

It might only get 6a if it had a bomber nut placement above the crux, I think the Downhill Racer crux (6a) is harder. Besides a one move 6b problem would probably only get V3 in this day and age, I reckon

[dave]

although the crux of artless maybe like V3 in isolation, the whole thing to the ledge of great slab would probably easily be highball font 7a, which probably rougly equates to english 6b - i.e. similar to finger distance but higher. or to cut a long story short, harder then 6a but easier than 6c.

[Jim]

what?

[dave]

i said bummersaredeaf.

[Jim]

I'mtootiredtodriveorgotothepubbutscousecanyougiveusaliftclimbing?

[Jim]

.

[Johnny Brown]

highball 7a? You mean like font 7a? Have you put microdots under your eyelids?

[dave]

I'mtootiredtodriveorgotothepubbutscousecanyougiveusaliftclimbing?

:321:

[RopeBoy]

So 2 people have said its about V3-ish. How on earth does it get a grade of english 6b then?

I'm 'vertically challenged' and found the move quite hard, in fact a full out dyno for a slopey hold.  

J  

[Daniel]

Didnt think you were that small!

Cheers guys - sounds like its worth having a look at somepoint in the next few days....

[dave]

its 27 degrees, its froggatt, its "melting your krabs in the heat" time. don't get carried away (by midges). good luck!