[account_inactive]

I'm going to be going down Devon way weekend after next and wondered if anyone had any beta on the bouldering?

I did my SPSA down there years ago (you were robbed Stu;) ) and heard that bonehill was the place to be.  

If anyone is around that weekend and fancies giving a tour/showing me your projects it would be much appreciated

D

[saltbeef]

word, i went for a week a few years back... and my advice is take a string and go to ansteys...
if you insist on bouldering go to combshead tor, its a bit of a walk but there are some dope aretes, and is a really beautiful place. bonehill was ok, but a bit over rated in my opinion.

[Bonjoy]

Isn't the best bouldering down there on the north coast at Northcote Mouth, Hartland Quays etc? Stu Littlefeller would be the man with the know.
 There are also some amazing looking sealevel traverses at all diffrent grades an lengths in the Antseys area.

[JR]

theres a miniguide for hartland quay somewhere on the web...

probably on javu.co.uk

Was pretty good, but i was injured

[Stu Littlefair]

Christ Dylan,

you're lucky I saw this. I'm pulling nights on my big telescope in Chile. This is my 17th consecutive 16-hour nightshift and counting, so don't hurt me if my info is crap.

I'd say to keep well away from dartmoor. It's sharp and a bit crap. However, it is a well nice spot for chilling out and eating cream teas, so if you must go to dartmoor, go to combeshead. No hard probs but what is there is quality, and the rock's a bit nicer than your average. Top notch picnic/"al fresco" spot too.

But the main deal has to be on the North Coast. The bouldering's sporadic and you'd want to hit a couple of venues a day, but the problems are mint and the rock is really, really nice. The best way to get info to all this stuff is pay a visit to simon young at the barn - he'll be more than happy to give you the info. Places you should check out are Hartland Quay, Northcott Mouth, and
Upton Roofs.

If you've got a lot of time and petrol money, Godrevy nr st ives is pretty nice too. Just follow the signs and then head to the right hand end of the beach....

[Ru]

Stu's in Chilie at the moment so I doubt you'll get much out of him for a couple of weeks.

The best bet is to take a string and do some roped stuff, Ansteys is awesome for sport stuff.

The best bouldering is on the North Coast. The granite on Dartmoor looks fantastic untill you get up close, and realise how sharp it is. Having said that, we had a nice chilled session at Saddle Tor, which is easy to get to and has some good steep problems.

The North Coast bouldering is good if a little spread out. We went to Hartland Quay for which you either need a guide or a topo, otherwise you would waste lots of time finding things.

[Paz]

Yeah, I mean the thing with Dartmoor is it's OK and nice and that but you never hear any complaints about wire brushing.  Except maybe about how quickly they wear out.

[SA Chris]

I have always got on OK with the rock on dartmoor, possibly because I don't tend to spend much time on any one problem, rather get mileage in on easier ones, and walk awy from ones I can't do. Seems to put less strain on the skin, rather than pulling on the same holds again and again.

I've always liked this place; http://www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/Guides/DartmoorBouldering/Smallacombe/index.shtml some classy problems, including Death Jug Mantle and Little Acorn (although a bit of tape on the index finger of left hand makes the crstal a bit more bearable). Takes a bit to orientate yourself, so check out topo, and photo carefully, as well as using photos as a reference.

[account_inactive]

Cheers for the advise
Think you might be right Stu, but I'm not sure the missus will want to belay me all day.
Smallacombe looks ok, but I'm not really into V0's

[saltbeef]

didn't realise you could climb any harder!

[SA Chris]

Smallacombe looks ok, but I'm not really into V0's

Nae bother, if numbers are all you are after, best to look elsewhere on the granite. Your skin may not thank you though. Bear in mind a lot of the V0's are former "Plymouth 5c".

Bonehill is limited, but OK if you have limited time and want to experience Dartmoor. There is zero walk in, and it's easy to get to.

[account_inactive]

Nae bother, if numbers are all you are after, best to look elsewhere on the granite.

What else is it about if its not chasing numbers?  I'm confused

didn't realise you could climb any harder!

Cheeky fooker! I'll have you know that I've sent some pretty darn hard V1's in my day Fred Nogoals

Cheers for the advice Stu, sorry to hear that you are working 16 hour days staring into the sky   The weather is looking tres hot so I'm not sure what will happen.  Will report back

D

[account_inactive]

Well back from a long weekend in the country
Spent most of our time eating and drinking to excess with a little bit of walking thrown in.
We did manage to go climbing for a day at Bonehill and now that I've been I can understand everyones comments.  It all looks tres bon until you actually start pulling off the ground!  I looked at some sitter that I think would be a new problem, but its just digging in the dirt really.  I also looked at a Godskins sitter to Rippled Wall, which at V9 looks a bit futuristic.................


Well at least it was better than the sandstone

[SA Chris]

In spite of it's popularity, Bonehill is probably the worst of the bouldering venues. And any possibilities have probably been done by Bendy Henderson, many times. At least you managed something though.

Devon seems to have that effect of lulling you into holiday/seaside mode, and just chilling instead.

[saltbeef]

hope you had a cream tea. they're the fuckin shizza.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

I likewise had a fun weekend in the South West. Spent Sunday on Lee Bay, nice beach near Lynton on the North coast of Somerset. Anyone know it? You drive through a place called 'Valley of the Rocks', been going there with my gran since I was born but never done any climbing there. Does anyone know if there is any recognised bouldering/routes around there? Sea cliffs look a bit loose, and I think the monks who own the beach don't allow climbing. But there's still some fun to be had on the beach though with some traversing etc

[SA Chris]

I think there is some scrappy stuff in the Valley of Rocks itslef, but nothing great. I have only ever surfed at Lynmouth, in bid witer swells the poit works nicely; got it pretty much like the picture in Stormrider's. Did note there are a few large boulders on the beach there, but never actually had a go on them myself (it was tipping down).

Apparently there is a complete traverse of the coastline, involving coasteering, scrambling, and some roped pitches.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Think I'll have to have an explore next time we're down there, seem to not get much done when we're at Grans, bar some walks and the odd bit of biking. Probably due to the vast amounts of amazing food gran plies us with    Have to take a mat and rack one day. Found this site... http://www.exmoor92.fsnet.co.uk/Exmoor%20Coast%20Climbing/ which list bits and pieces

[SA Chris]

I had a link to that some time ago, glad I didn't bother ploughing through Google again. Some crazy looking stuff, and some fun sea level stuff too. That bottom picture of Hurlstone Point seems to show some potential for some bouldering.

Remember the seaside delights of Saunton/Croyde/Putsborough/Woolacombe and Baggy point aren't too far away, and can easily be done in a day from Lynton.