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Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2180409 times)

36chambers

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#7550 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 11:36:45 am
No one has proposed 9A for Gioia so why would it be 9A? Reading between the lines, Will Bosi seems to think Terranova is 9A and I'd say he's fairly qualified on the subject of 9A! 
     
I only mentioned Gioia to highlight that an individual's experience doesn't make or break a grade.

Ondra suggested Gioia was as difficult as Terranova. Nalle thought Burden of Dreams was (at least) a step above Gioia. Bosi thinks Terranova could be as hard as Burden. We obviously need more people to get involved to know what's what.

I'm with Bradders that Ondra would rinse Alphane, Sleepwalker and maybe Soudain Seul.
Jakob didn't exactly get on with Sleepwalker, never mind the sitter, perhaps a similar fate awaits Ondra.

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#7551 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 11:46:53 am
So Ondra is approximately at the top level in bouldering then? (as well as sport climbing, big walling, onsighting, comp climbing, etc and therefore clearly the best). That was my point really! (and it's hardly a unique one  ;D )

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#7552 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 12:23:25 pm
I'm in the camp of that ondra would get shut down on all of these 9A's miserably, with the exception of Alphane, which looks quite his style (essentially sport route masquerading as a boulder). The level is extremely high. Looking at ondra's track record on the bouldering:


- sent terranova / gioia long time ago (13 years), looks like he was about 10-20 kilos lighter, his biceps looks as big as my wrist. Dare to say he weighted less than Will.

- sent 2 8C+ about 4 years ago, both probably better graded as a sport routes, both over 25 moves, including double kneepads


teestub

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#7553 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 12:31:20 pm
I think the potential thing with Terranova in terms of difficulty is that Ondra did some of his mad drop knee action that Will isn't using, so it's possible that Will's sequence is 9A but Ondra's was not for him (if that makes sense?)

Didn't Pete Whittaker do this (Silence Crux) pretty quick? Maybe I'm misremembering but wasn't there a wideboyz vid?

I thin he did the 'easy' bit in the crack, the meat is actually getting established into the crack. Pete didn't magically become a high 8's boulderer just because it's a crack  ;D

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#7554 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 01:20:04 pm
I'm in the camp of that ondra would get shut down on all of these 9A's miserably, with the exception of Alphane, which looks quite his style (essentially sport route masquerading as a boulder). The level is extremely high. Looking at ondra's track record on the bouldering:


- sent terranova / gioia long time ago (13 years), looks like he was about 10-20 kilos lighter, his biceps looks as big as my wrist. Dare to say he weighted less than Will.

- sent 2 8C+ about 4 years ago, both probably better graded as a sport routes, both over 25 moves, including double kneepads

You are a braver man than me! I would almost never bet against Ondra! Always more of a shock when he struggles than when he smashes it out!

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#7555 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 01:49:02 pm
Whats the expression; never bet against the house!

Re Wideboyz, that clickbait vid kind of annoyed me cause its not like Ondra hasn't shown hes a very decent crack climber as well as everything else.

I think Ondra would probably be on for the flash on Alphane (thats a joke, but I bet he gives it 8C+ when he does it), and would make short work of the others. I'm with 36C that him trying these things is overdue if he wants to stay part of the conversation though.

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#7556 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 04:43:51 pm
I would love to see Ondra sack off the Olympics and instead go and try these boulders + things like DNA + BIG + Bibliography etc.

I was keen for him to win gold last time but now I just wish he’d forget that plastic crap!

Duncan campbell

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#7557 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 06, 2024, 05:37:11 pm
I think he’d do well on these things but Ondra isn’t above some random
spanner in the works throwing him off - perfecto Mundo and Excalibur being prime examples…

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#7558 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 12, 2024, 12:15:36 am
There's a vid simply called Alphane on Amazon Prime atm. It's 40 odd minutes following the highs, lows and self loathing (!) Of Simon Lorenzi repeating everyone's favorite 9a boulder.

It's not bad, worth a bash etc

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#7559 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 12, 2024, 12:39:41 am
Before anyone spends any money on Amazon, I'm assuming it's the same one as this on the Mellow youtube channel?

https://youtu.be/9rDZAm60qzw?feature=shared


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#7560 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 12, 2024, 07:55:25 am
Yep that's the one. I'd missed it on the Mellow channel.

Just to be clear it's not worth the price of an Amazon subscription!!

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#7561 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 13, 2024, 01:10:46 pm
I think Ondra would probably be on for the flash on Alphane (thats a joke, but I bet he gives it 8C+ when he does it), and would make short work of the others. I'm with 36C that him trying these things is overdue if he wants to stay part of the conversation though.

Sorry, just grabbing the last relevant post for this to make sense, but Ondra states here that 9A is on his radar. Soudain Seul and Alphane are top of the list, but Burden isn't completely off the menu either...


teestub

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#7562 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 13, 2024, 06:15:09 pm
Flo Floatin'




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#7563 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 13, 2024, 06:48:05 pm
Quality artsy music vids? But it's hard to get board of such an iconic modern boulder problem.

jakaitch

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#7564 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 13, 2024, 08:54:47 pm
Quality! Must have been such a heartbreaker to drop the top on that

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andy popp

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Pexadilla!

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2 worth watching, one from Carlo Traversi an oldie reuploaded, and the other a small Scouse channel with a West Coast Gimps esc trip to Magic Wood.

Bradders

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Surprised this hasn't been mentioned yet. Lovely video from Sam as ever.

https://youtu.be/q6i8QCic-Ow?si=XV8Sam-aGMO84zXA

edshakey

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Almost seems like cheating to share Sam's videos in this thread, it'd fill it up!

Excellent film though. Jonny's dedication and commitment is a truly remarkable skill.

mr chaz

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Toru on Epitaph

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Yes I like that. Great simplicity combined with the brutality.

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Enjoyed this

36chambers

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slight spoiler below
NSFW  :
for a moment I got very excited thinking I was about to witness the greatest green tick post ever.

 

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