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Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2083295 times)

jwi

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#7350 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 19, 2022, 07:06:27 pm

Shawn is weirdly chill for an American?

His dad is pretty chill as well.

My wife had a session with Didier in the bouldering gym without having any idea who he was. She thought he was just another random middle aged good Toulousain who is somehow incredibly good at climbing.

AMorris

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#7351 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 20, 2022, 09:54:44 am
totally agree with the reviews. Magnus doesn't always do stuff to everyone's taste (though I would argue that he is just doing what is required to gain prominence on a massively top heavy platform), but his stuff with Adam and Shawn are really great. Shawn comes across as an amicable and sincere person too.

Banana finger

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#7352 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 20, 2022, 04:19:17 pm
It was really refreshing seeing Shawn getting shut down on something miles below his top level.
A good lesson in being kind to yourself when you get spanked on something which on paper you should crush.
Regardless of grade, if your body doesn't 'fit' the problem, its gonna feel hard!

Strawberries at curbar is my example. I just don't seem to fit the positions  ::)

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#7353 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 20, 2022, 05:16:15 pm
It's a strabge title isn't it, given that magbus isn't that far off doing it, and Shawn has had multiple sessions on it. It's almost like he'd chosen that title beforehand, but didn't get burned off quite as much as he'd hoped.

Is this the one that James Pearson flashed years ago?

remus

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#7354 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
December 20, 2022, 05:27:33 pm
Is this the one that James Pearson flashed years ago?

I don't think so. The three 8A+/Bs he flashed in 2007 are Ganyemede Takeover, The Great Shark Hunt and Schule des Lebens. As far as Im aware Aidan was the first person to flash Vecchio in March this year.

https://climbing-history.org/climber/153/james-pearson
https://climbing-history.org/climb/180/vecchio-leone

Kingy

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#7355 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
January 29, 2023, 10:08:37 am
Free Hueco!
Now remastered and free from Reel Rock with Sharma repeating Slashface

https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/free-hueco-2023-remaster

Interesting to see the close spotting techniques, don't think people spot like that any more due to the increased number of pads

YorkshireTea

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#7356 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
January 29, 2023, 10:41:30 pm
Free Hueco!
Now remastered and free from Reel Rock with Sharma repeating Slashface

https://watch.reelrocktour.com/videos/free-hueco-2023-remaster

Interesting to see the close spotting techniques, don't think people spot like that any more due to the increased number of pads

Excited to watch this!

Also maybe showing my youth but me and mates will ask for a "90s spot" when we want a close spot like that, usually something not that high but feels like you could take a nasty back splat

SA Chris

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#7357 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
January 30, 2023, 08:55:42 am
Excellent. Only last week I saw reference to it somewhere, and tried to find it for free.

monkoffunk

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#7358 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 09:34:50 am
May have missed elsewhere, but enjoyed this


Liamhutch89

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#7359 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 10:05:02 am
May have missed elsewhere, but enjoyed this



Love it. It's great seeing local hard problems get dispatched so easily and it clearly puts into context the level he's at. It seems unthinkable to flash Zoo York and do High Fidelity in a handful of attempts without really having to try very hard, but of course he was going to do that - 8B isn't even very hard for Aidan!

Duma

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#7360 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 11:03:04 am
I actually thought this was one of the only Wedge vids unworthy of this thread tbh - it's ok, but didn't feel up to their usual standards framing wise (Hi Fidelity looks pretty nondescript in the vid, and needs a longer shot for the top to show the height). Plus the Tenzing advertising felt particularly jarring.

edshakey

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#7361 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 11:18:12 am
I reckon we're just getting spoilt - still easily worthy of this thread imo.

But that product placement did give me a good laugh ("I feel tired"... immediate cut to drinking tenzing). I get why it's there, and it's better than an actual ad, but it really did jar with the rest of the video  :lol:

Keep em coming though - we are very lucky to have this regular, high quality content, with one of the best boulderers in the world.

SA Chris

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#7362 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 11:30:32 am
"contains product placement" - not the worst offence in the world I think.

Feels like a quick drop from Wedge rather than the full length affairs they usually put out, I guess a page from Mellow's book?

Impressive though.

Nutty

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#7363 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 01:10:16 pm
But that product placement did give me a good laugh ("I feel tired"... immediate cut to drinking tenzing). I get why it's there, and it's better than an actual ad, but it really did jar with the rest of the video  :lol:
I did think the sledgehammer unsubtlety of that was done with a bit of a wink to the audience. Sort of saying 'this is the advert bit, we're only drinking Tenzing because we're getting paid'.

sdm

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#7364 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 01:36:48 pm
I found the product placement jarring.

I don't agree that product placement is preferable to actual adverts... because YouTube adverts are so frequent that YouTube would be unwatchable with them so they get blocked.

Product placement can't be blocked (props to the youtubers who include timestamps for their product placement so they can still get paid but you don't have to listen to yet another person banging on about how great Surfshark, Squarespace or NordVPN is) so it becomes a trade off between how entertaining the videos are vs how annoying the product placement is.

I've given up on a few otherwise good YouTube channels because their product placement got too annoying. I haven't done that for any climbing channels yet but I will if the product placement gets too frequent/in your face.

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#7365 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 01:44:22 pm
What climbing channels do you follow? I find most if not all of them pretty annoying because of the YouTuber persona they adopt; Lattice, Wideboyz etc. Mellow and Wedge do good problem footage I guess and don't go in for the gimmicks that so many channels are guilty of.

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#7366 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 02:02:18 pm
But that product placement did give me a good laugh ("I feel tired"... immediate cut to drinking tenzing). I get why it's there, and it's better than an actual ad, but it really did jar with the rest of the video  :lol:
I did think the sledgehammer unsubtlety of that was done with a bit of a wink to the audience. Sort of saying 'this is the advert bit, we're only drinking Tenzing because we're getting paid'.

That was how I took it, especially having heard Aidan and Sam joke about advertising in their podcast.

I loved the video anyway but maybe more for the problems featured. Great to put Aidan's incredible levels of strength into context given how much time I've spent on 2/4 of them. Also solid evidence that Ben's Sit is at least as hard as Zoo and Rift Aversion! I thought before watching it that flashing Ben's would be mind blowing, as the crux move whilst obviously being hard is also weird, totally unique and highly dependent on body position, so getting it right on your first go would be quite something. Does anyone know if it has been flashed by anyone else?

Regarding Rift Aversion, the angle maybe isn't great but it is simply outrageous how easy he makes the crux move look on it. I've seen several very, very strong people on it over the last couple of years and that is a really hard, marginal and conditions dependent move. Amazing stuff.

edshakey

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#7367 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 02:41:42 pm
But that product placement did give me a good laugh ("I feel tired"... immediate cut to drinking tenzing). I get why it's there, and it's better than an actual ad, but it really did jar with the rest of the video  :lol:
I did think the sledgehammer unsubtlety of that was done with a bit of a wink to the audience. Sort of saying 'this is the advert bit, we're only drinking Tenzing because we're getting paid'.

That was how I took it, especially having heard Aidan and Sam joke about advertising in their podcast.

Yeah I think the main sledgehammer was it making me laugh so abruptly that I paused the video  :lol: but I'd like to think they would be reluctant to allow products to take over the videos so I trust they've got some self control

Liamhutch89

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#7368 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 04:51:06 pm
What climbing channels do you follow? I find most if not all of them pretty annoying because of the YouTuber persona they adopt; Lattice, Wideboyz etc. Mellow and Wedge do good problem footage I guess and don't go in for the gimmicks that so many channels are guilty of.

Mellow and Wedge are the top tier, but there's a few others that might be worthy of your time.

Ondra and Dave Mac both have quality channels. Stefano's can be good but occasionally he gets a bit too youtube. These are generally obvious from the thumbnail. Same goes for Emil Abrahamsson. Shawn Raboutou has started vlogging, but his personality seems to be very non-youtube and he clearly finds it a bit awkward, so these are fun. Based on Bosi's latest vid it looks like he might be starting to do something a bit more than standard beta vids too.

Edit: how could I forget Doylo's masterpieces!

Dingdong

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#7369 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 05:06:28 pm
Tom O’halloran is great. He does a lot of outside content but also great information on training, projecting tips etc which are aimed more towards intermediate/advanced but guess could be used by anyone. He also seems like a nice bloke which always helps

sdm

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#7370 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 06:06:44 pm
What climbing channels do you follow? I find most if not all of them pretty annoying because of the YouTuber persona they adopt;
That is sorbet reason that I give up on videos/channels.

With lattice, I'll watch the videos that look like they might have some useful training knowledge. I don't bother with the YouTube clickbaity nonsense videos.

monkoffunk

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#7371 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 06:22:55 pm
What climbing channels do you follow? I find most if not all of them pretty annoying because of the YouTuber persona they adopt; Lattice, Wideboyz etc. Mellow and Wedge do good problem footage I guess and don't go in for the gimmicks that so many channels are guilty of.

Mellow and Wedge are the top tier, but there's a few others that might be worthy of your time.

Ondra and Dave Mac both have quality channels. Stefano's can be good but occasionally he gets a bit too youtube. These are generally obvious from the thumbnail. Same goes for Emil Abrahamsson. Shawn Raboutou has started vlogging, but his personality seems to be very non-youtube and he clearly finds it a bit awkward, so these are fun. Based on Bosi's latest vid it looks like he might be starting to do something a bit more than standard beta vids too.

Edit: how could I forget Doylo's masterpieces!

I also tap like Shawn’s videos becuase they are so non YouTube. I wonder if that will change in future, but he doesn’t really strike me as the character type to end up full YouTube.

SA Chris

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#7372 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 24, 2023, 10:37:56 pm

That is sorbet reason that I give up on videos/channels.


Ice cream at them sometimes too.

monkoffunk

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#7373 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 25, 2023, 01:43:37 am
Product placement is such a ubiquitous part of life now that it hardly even registered with me when I watched it. Don’t think I’d have even been able to say what they were advertising if you’d asked me immediately after. Wonder if that’s worse? Maybe subconsciously I’ll be more of a sucker.

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#7374 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
February 25, 2023, 07:08:23 am

That is sorbet reason that I give up on videos/channels.


Ice cream at them sometimes too.
Autocorrect ;D I think that was supposed to say another.

 

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