[andy popp]

I nearly said something earlier. I'm not sure why I backed off. But I do wonder if they should have been climbing on The Ace. Didn't we have a debate about this just a couple of weeks ago?

[standard]

Well there didn't seem to be any problem with it apart from breaking off a bit of the top-out on one of the most highly acclaimed problems in one of the most popular areas in the country 

I wasn't condoning, just pointing towards the 'comment'

[willackers]

Great effort from the both of them, very jealous of the Ace send, but, when conditions fail, don't climb on damp rock! Glad it wasn't the jug that broke off, again.

[duncan]

Good climbing skills, over-enthusiasm.

BMC have produced several guides to good practice in outdoor bouldering, rightly emphasising looking after the rock. Unfortunately none of them mention the vulnerability of damp sandstone or gritstone.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/top-ten-bouldering-dos-and-donts
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/media/images/Articles/Final.jpg
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/bouldering-outside

[tomtom]

Good climbing skills, over-enthusiasm.

BMC have produced several guides to good practice in outdoor bouldering, rightly emphasising looking after the rock. Unfortunately none of them mention the vulnerability of damp sandstone or gritstone.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/top-ten-bouldering-dos-and-donts
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/media/images/Articles/Final.jpg
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/bouldering-outside

Its an important inclusion - as if it were included we would have no polished eroded classics would we!

</sarcasm>

[fatneck]

Enjoyed this JWebb short...



I seem to have lost the ability to embed...

[andy_e]

Take the "s" out of https://.

[fatneck]

Oh Yeah!!

[fatneck]

This may be a re-post but it's boss so

[mr chaz]

I like that one a lot, well worth a re post

[ducko]

Serious crushing and psyche here...

Brilliant! Psyche x1000

[dave]

.....but, when conditions fail, don't climb on damp rock! Glad it wasn't the jug that broke off, again.

+1 to that. Nearly fucked a classic there boys.

[jfdm]

Short but good!

The crux move on the last problem looks "solid."

[tomtom]

Short but good!

The crux move on the last problem looks "solid."

Yes - the sideways - press out dyno flick thing is an impressive bit of body control!

[cheque]

Short but good!

The crux move on the last problem looks "solid."

Yes - the sideways - press out dyno flick thing is an impressive bit of body control!

Looks like the feet after it are appalling too.

The video's just the right length in my opinion- these "one man and his camera" sort of films work best as little bite-sized chunks. Nice music.

[rodma]

Short but good!

The crux move on the last problem looks "solid."

Yes - the sideways - press out dyno flick thing is an impressive bit of body control!

Dave is way too strong, i had to use my feet for the whole thing 

Looks like the feet after it are appalling too.

The video's just the right length in my opinion- these "one man and his camera" sort of films work best as little bite-sized chunks. Nice music.

[fatdoc]

Serious crushing and psyche here...

The word crushed it so oft used...

Not in this case.. That's FUCKING AWESOME!

[Richard Sharpe]

.....but, when conditions fail, don't climb on damp rock! Glad it wasn't the jug that broke off, again.

+1 to that. Nearly fucked a classic there boys.

great effort but clearly could easily climb both so maybe wait for good conditions and not risk breaking 2 of the countries best hard problems???
just think a bit guys.

[scottygillery]

.....but, when conditions fail, don't climb on damp rock! Glad it wasn't the jug that broke off, again.

+1 to that. Nearly fucked a classic there boys.

great effort but clearly could easily climb both so maybe wait for good conditions and not risk breaking 2 of the countries best hard problems???
just think a bit guys.

Everything looks very dry when they're climbing. Looks like they waited in strong winds for 3 hrs. I was out on that day and there's a good chance what I was climbing had been wet 3 hours earlier. If everything looks dry and it's windy should one still not climb if you know it was wet earlier? How long would you have waited?

[Sasquatch]

Rosk type matters, so on softer sedimentary type rock(sandstone) the recommendation is generally a full day.  On granite, generally shortly after drying its fine.  Granite doesn't tend to absorb the moisture.  Sandstone does.  Flks on this side of the pond think that's why Meadowlark lemon broke.  People got on it after rain. 

[mr chaz]

Much preferred this to last years rock rodeo video

[Sasquatch]

Rosk type matters, so on softer sedimentary type rock(sandstone) the recommendation is generally a full day.  On granite, generally shortly after drying its fine.  Granite doesn't tend to absorb the moisture.  Sandstone does.  Flks on this side of the pond think that's why Meadowlark lemon broke.  People got on it after rain.

I have been informed of the incorrectness of my information. Meadowlark was not broken due to rain.  It was due to uber wads who are too strong to be climbing on soft rock ripping the hold off.   

Carry on

[highrepute]

.....but, when conditions fail, don't climb on damp rock! Glad it wasn't the jug that broke off, again.

+1 to that. Nearly fucked a classic there boys.

great effort but clearly could easily climb both so maybe wait for good conditions and not risk breaking 2 of the countries best hard problems???
just think a bit guys.

Everything looks very dry when they're climbing. Looks like they waited in strong winds for 3 hrs. I was out on that day and there's a good chance what I was climbing had been wet 3 hours earlier. If everything looks dry and it's windy should one still not climb if you know it was wet earlier? How long would you have waited?

Edit...After speaking to a friend about this my stance has changed. Could well have been wet after the hail shower.

[andy popp]

Mega Megos on Lucid Dreaming:

http://www.redbull.com/de/de/adventure/stories/1331710673696/alex-megos-lucid-dreaming-bishop-boulder

[i_a_coops]

tut tut, climbing on wet rock. Could have broken a classic there

also