[Fiend]

Boo to the drilled pockets 

Forest Rock is in Woodhouse Eaves in Leicestershire, just South of Loughborough, come off M1 at Jn23.

[andy_e]

Boo to the drilled pockets in the drilled hole in the drilled ground

[dontfollowme]

Whereabouts is that overhanging slate stuff r-man? Any topo around? Looks kinda cool.

Topo: http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=38&Itemid=78

[AndyR]

Really enjoyed this. The last few problems look superb!

The full length video is very good - some very nice areas being developed in the PNW 

[Doylo]

Looks like a cool problem!

[r-man]

Whereabouts is that overhanging slate stuff r-man? Any topo around? Looks kinda cool.

Topo: http://www.leicestershireclimbs.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=38&Itemid=78

That topo doesn't show the new stuff though. If anyone wants the tour, get in touch with Dawid - I'm sure he'd be keen to show you around.

Think the traverse and arch problem should be fairly obvious, especially if you use the videos. Enchantress, just make sure you start on the right holds and don't bridge out right - Mike's video shows the beta most people will use. Bring a kneepad for this, or your thigh will be destroyed! Check out Mike's vimeo for several videos of the other new stuff. Conditions are pretty reliable apparently - Dawid and Mike have been going all summer when most of the lime was wet.

Nunckley quarry is also 10min away, so the two can be combined well.

[Wood FT]

Really enjoyed this. The last few problems look superb!

The full length video is very good - some very nice areas being developed in the PNW 

nice restrained edit, lovely stuff

[a dense loner]

I thought it was fuckin shit

[fatboySlimfast]

I thought it was fuckin shit

my learned colleague is forthright with his critique

[tomtom]

Really enjoyed this. The last few problems look superb!

The full length video is very good - some very nice areas being developed in the PNW 

I spent a day bouldering at Leavenworth summer 2011 - it is a really good spot... I was at the places in the first few problems... Worth a visit if you're in Washington State...

I didnt really like the film though.. nice to see the place again!

[grimer]

I had a sessin at Forest Rock yesterday, really enjoyed it. Some seepage coming through at the minute. It'll be in a Leicestershire guide that the BMC are working on at the minute with locals.

[Scouse D]

re. Shades of Grey
Is anyone else concerned by the fact that this is a purely manufactured problem? On facebook the comments are really rather congratulationary which stikes me as odd. I see how it's a good problem to climb and have no issue with the fact it's been climbed but the fella who drilled it has even posted saying how he 'drilled it 4 years ago but couldn't touch it'.
I know it's in a quarry.I know how quarries are made. But I also had the understanding that as climbers we take on the challenges that the rock presents us and statements such a  'it was unclimbable' are poor justification for vandalism and 'problem creation'. How many problems have been deemed unclimbable in the past and are now being climbed? Is it an issue that a wall is unclimbable? Can we not just leave it at that?
Another comment suggests that the problem was a 'visionary creation'. I would suggest it was quite the opposite.
If we start applauding this behaviour where might it lead?

[dave]

What dave said.

Watching the video i kinda assumed it was something drilled decades ago, a mistake of the 80s or something like that. What kind of dick drills problems in the 21st century? If anyone is down Leicestershire way with a bit of sika or cement you know what to do.

[Nibile]

I agree. I thought it had been chipped for other purposes, being in a quarry, and then Mike climbed it.

[Dolph]

After learning this was drilled only 4/5 years ago, I too share your concerns. I did put on Facebook that I thought that this was a perfect problem and for the move alone that would be true. I also put it was a visionary creation and in some sense this is also true. However I was clearly riding high after being pleased to climb the line. Learning that this was drilled recently has totally spoilt it for me. When I first saw this line I assumed it was done 30 years ago, when people were more narrow minded. It seemed okay to climb on it as it was someone's genious mistake. Learning it was done in modern times fills me with dread that the person responsible (not naming names) will do this again! This clearly can not be allowed to happen. It's a dark road to head down, wether the rock is blank or not.

I do not think this particular problem should be filled in as it's an well known local challenge (another reason I thought it was ancient). I think it is best to draw a line under it. Ensure it never happens again and move one. If people decide that this really needs the pockets filling in to make a statement, I will even offer to do it my self.

Finally let me just state that categorically I am against chipping n any way shape or form!!!

[Andy B]

Well said Scouse.

[Scouse D]

Although not well spelled. The post should say 'congratulatory', not 'congratulationary'. Teachers today...

[dave]

However I was clearly riding high after being pleased to climb the line.

Good to hear that was just pillow talk, thought you'd taken leave of your senses there for a minute!

[Fiend]

Well said Scouse Dolph.

[cha1n]

Here is a film I made when my girlfriend and I had 3 weeks up in the Peaks.

Hey, not trying to be a pedant and I only mention it because I may try the problem tomorrow, but didn't you finish Jerry's traverse in the wrong place at 11:28?

[hobblingfool]

Really good post Dolph. One of the sadest thing to me about chipping problems like this is that it takes away the sense of satisfaction you deserve for putting in the effort. We all dream of a classic first ascent and you have been robbed of this feeling; as you say you didn't know it was recently chipped, you should be pissed off. I would be. We have a finite amount of quality rock, who cares if it was originally quarried, create holds at climbing walls not on rock.

[neilslim]

Whats the Facebook page 50 shades is being discussed on? Has anyone had a look at the line to the left of the drilled pockets, in the corner, on small uppercuts? Looks like it would go.... Good effort on shades of grey, had a dabble a few months back.

[cofe]

Well said Scouse.

[Nibile]

Yes well said Dolph. Very responsible of you.   

[Bonjoy]

What Scouse said. The uncritical congrat I put on fb were before any mention of drilled holds, I had no idea. This sort of thing sets a bad precedent even if it's on unclimbable ground in an obscure location, one man's unclimbable and obscure may be very different to another's and these notions tend to drift once one thing is considered justifiable