[Bradders]

Thought this was great, really quirky

Agreed.

Also enjoyed this one. They've clearly taken some inspiration from the Doylo film school, which is a good thing in my opinion!

[Fiend]

Is the Doylo film school about proudly emblazoning something with a massive old school onsight trad grade while there's a dozen pads in shot?? I might cancel my fan club membership then.

Still fair play if they're ground-upping it in modern highball style - that would be a good way of stepping up to the challenge.

[Bradders]

Is the Doylo film school about proudly emblazoning something with a massive old school onsight trad grade while there's a dozen pads in shot?? I might cancel my fan club membership then.

No. 

[Wellsy]

Doing stuff with a load of pads at the bottom is legit right? Dave Mac padded the bottom of Hold Fast Hold True and that saved his ankle.

[Fiend]

It's certainly a legit way to ground-up a highball 7C indeed 

[Wellsy]

Bloody trad climbers... I'll stick to bouldering! :D

[spidermonkey09]

I'd be having an E grade for that regardless of the number of pads under it, it's fucking high!

[Fiend]

You can have an (R/X) or a (!!) if that helps??

Wellsy - good plan, doing trad at the full weight of the given grade is fucking stupid and outdated these days 

[teestub]

You can have an (R/X) or a (!!) if that helps??

Wellsy - good plan, doing trad at the full weight of the given grade is fucking stupid and outdated these days 

 E grade acolyte Fiend confirms that a boulder grade plus danger rating is the appropriate system for short grit routes these days 🤔

[Fiend]

Pretty sure I've been agreeing with the BMC method, of giving certain grit routes a both trad grade and highball boulder grade depending whether you onsight it without pads OR ground-up it above a pad stack, for about 15 years now.

Not that is necessarily the case for this route but I find anything with BIG TRAD NUMBERS on the title that aren't borne out in the picture to be an instant no-click for me, unless it's an unusual enough non-trade-route to be interesting regardless.

[teestub]

So boulder grade instead of E grade for short route OK, but sport grade instead of E grade for longer route not ok?

[Fiend]

giving certain grit routes a both* trad grade and highball boulder grade

So boulder grade in addition to out-dated and rarely-climbed-like-that but does give a bit of useful perspective and context E grade for short route OK, but sport grade as an optional small bit of extra information in addition to the default E grade for longer route not also ok?

Fixed!



(* P.S. I apologise for my appalling English typing, depression and injury are causing my brain to rot)

[sma91cd]

Not that is necessarily the case for this route but I find anything with BIG TRAD NUMBERS on the title that aren't borne out in the picture to be an instant no-click for me, unless it's an unusual enough non-trade-route to be interesting regardless.

"instant no-click for me" bit of a stuck up attitude that, its still at the end of the day a
 very rarely repeated line, calling things by their original trad grades is standard.

[Bradders]

 Nice little Ondra vid, of a really stunning looking little line.

[remus]

The most recent reel rock is up on the over-caffeinated sugary drink company website. Fun one with Giulliano Cameroni smashing some hard boulders

https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/us-en/episodes/reel-rock-s7-e6

The Action Directe one with Melissa la Neve is good, and enjoyed the Lonnie Kauk one too.

[Kingy]

FA of 'So What' V15 in Tremblant, Canada by Yves Gravelle inc some insane training footage



Yves considered he needed to 'level up' in order to achieve this ascent. I think he was already going pretty good on the training front!! 

[User deactivated.]

FA of 'So What' V15 in Tremblant, Canada by Yves Gravelle inc some insane training footage



Yves considered he needed to 'level up' in order to achieve this ascent. I think he was already going pretty good on the training front!! 

The rocky-esque training montage was a bit cheesy for my liking but the climbing looks great and surely at the sharp end of v15!

It would be good to see how others fare on those problems, especially those who excel in that steep crimpy style (D. Woods, Nalle, Aidan?).

Edit: looks like he took on board  Fiend's moaning about cut edits in the last video 

[Adam Lincoln]

The most recent reel rock is up on the over-caffeinated sugary drink company website. Fun one with Giulliano Cameroni smashing some hard boulders

https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/us-en/episodes/reel-rock-s7-e6

The Action Directe one with Melissa la Neve is good, and enjoyed the Lonnie Kauk one too.

Any chance you can just post the link properly as i can't get it to work, or find said vid.

Edit - Just seen over-caffeinated sugary drink company don't let you link to their pages.

[Bradders]

The most recent reel rock is up on the over-caffeinated sugary drink company website. Fun one with Giulliano Cameroni smashing some hard boulders

https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/us-en/episodes/reel-rock-s7-e6

The Action Directe one with Melissa la Neve is good, and enjoyed the Lonnie Kauk one too.

Any chance you can just post the link properly as i can't get it to work, or find said vid.

Edit - Just seen over-caffeinated sugary drink company don't let you link to their pages.

It's the UKB auto-replace thing that changes R e d B u l l to over-caffeinated sugary drink company...

Just copy the URL and put in r e d b u l l (without the spaces obvs.) instead of over-caffeinated sugary drink company.

[Kingy]

The rocky-esque training montage was a bit cheesy for my liking but the climbing looks great and surely at the sharp end of v15!

It would be good to see how others fare on those problems, especially those who excel in that steep crimpy style (D. Woods, Nalle, Aidan?).

Edit: looks like he took on board  Fiend's moaning about cut edits in the last video 

haha, yeah agreed but inspiring nonetheless! Intriguing to think, hopefully some beasts will get interested in trying it soon. Looks a bit on the thick end of V15 to me but what do I know... 

[Probes]

FA of 'So What' V15 in Tremblant, Canada by Yves Gravelle inc some insane training footage



Yves considered he needed to 'level up' in order to achieve this ascent. I think he was already going pretty good on the training front!! 

Whenever I see this guy climb, it reminds me so much of B'pool Sam when he was cranking hard. So much force in them arms, more akin to a power lifter with popeye forearms. Like, he shouldn't be able to move that muscle mass on that terrain. And if he needs to train for a problem is more than capable of taking the boulder home with him. I think Sam's would've had more mass on the arms too. 

[remus]

FA of 'So What' V15 in Tremblant, Canada by Yves Gravelle inc some insane training footage



Yves considered he needed to 'level up' in order to achieve this ascent. I think he was already going pretty good on the training front!! 

Whenever I see this guy climb, it reminds me so much of B'pool Sam when he was cranking hard. So much force in them arms, more akin to a power lifter with popeye forearms. Like, he shouldn't be able to move that muscle mass on that terrain. And if he needs to train for a problem is more than capable of taking the boulder home with him. I think Sam's would've had more mass on the arms too.

Although he looks like a big unit he's not actually that heavy, around the 65kg mark from memory. Totally agree on the power front though, I remember Dan V wrote a piece for one of the mags about 'front wheel drive, rear wheel drive and all wheel drive' climbers, it might not be the ideal for getting up the hardest problems but this guy is archetypal FWD and it's very cool to watch.

[Fiend]

65-fucking-kg for that?? Tell me he's either 5'4" or has a negative BMI that's like helium compensating for the muscle mass.

FFS 

[Yossarian]

FA of 'So What' V15 in Tremblant, Canada by Yves Gravelle inc some insane training footage

I'm going to award this guy the London Climber Order of the Monkey Room for services to weighted pull-ups and not going outside very often.

[teestub]

Got round to watching this the other night, love that he starts by talking about the proud distinctive arête (which is chalked up), but his problem finishes dropping off a jug some way below it!