Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2094428 times)

abarro81 · February 17, 2020, 11:50:36 am

Looking at videos it looks like the right starting holds.

To be honest, where the holds for a sitter are high enough that many will need to stack pads (i.e. more than just a few exceptionally small people), I think it's better to have a crouch start. Otherwise you get into the absurdities of who's allowed to stack, how many pads, etc.

remus · February 17, 2020, 01:05:08 pm

Quote from: spidermonkey09 on February 17, 2020, 11:43:44 am

Not done the problem so may be talking out of my arse, but hasn't he just done Home Cooking there at about 7A?! Taking the piss a bit as I'm sure theres an extra move or two in there but surely that isn't TTotW?

Great video though, I do enjoy that channel.

I've had a session on it (though not done it). Assuming you stack a pad or two so your hands were on the same holds then moving from the sit to that position is the easiest move on the whole problem. He's definitely not skipped anything substantial.

spidermonkey09 · February 17, 2020, 01:20:10 pm

Fair, I haven't got a clue! Sounds like it isn't really a sit start then, or people just aren't bothering with it, which amounts to the same thing.

monkey boy · February 17, 2020, 06:27:35 pm

Quote from: Duma on February 16, 2020, 09:04:36 am

Some great stuff here. Sadly includes a perfect example of a pet hate: crouched ascents of sit starts, he barely bends down to start Thick End of the Wedge!
If your arse wasn't the last thing to leave the floor, it's not a sit, whether or not you used the same hand holds to start. And yes it often makes a massive difference.
Back around.

The first ascent was done as a crouch, it's not a sit start, it's a low start to Home Cooking. Sam started in the right place.

Duma · February 17, 2020, 08:26:43 pm

It's written up on ukc and peakbouldering as the sit to home cooking. Fair enough if it's a crouch, but why has it been written up wrongly? The difference between a sit and a crouch is often not at all trivial even if it may be in this case. And if it is trivial then why not start sat down? If the holds are awkward to reach from sitting then fair enough, but again, write it up properly.

monkey boy · February 17, 2020, 09:19:20 pm

I didn't know it's written up as that, it shouldn't be as the FA was a crouch. I think you'd need a few pads to start it sitting, the holds are too high to reach otherwise. It annoys me too when people start sitters in a crouch position, like you say it can make a massive difference.

eastside · February 18, 2020, 12:56:11 am

Quote from: andy popp on December 16, 2019, 10:04:09 am

A new episode in the Rooftown series. Beautiful landscapes and some phenomenal looking lines. Some might find it a little over-stylised but the strengths far outweigh the negatives.

Loved this one, I'd say one of the best produced climbing films I've seen. Some of those lines are nothing short of incredible. Narsil looks to be probably the proudest roof in Arizona, of which there are hundreds.

AMorris · February 18, 2020, 04:10:27 pm

particularly on problems that start hauling off the floor on undercuts. Oftentimes getting your arse off the deck is the hardest bit of the problem (I am particularly wank at undercuts though, it has to be said).

Badgers in the mist at Rhiw Goch is a prime example, hard problem crouching but much harder to be strict on the sit start.

Bradders · February 27, 2020, 08:35:08 am

Enjoyed this. Uncut, try hard, psych music.

monkey boy · February 27, 2020, 08:58:55 am

Quote from: Bradders on February 27, 2020, 08:35:08 am

Enjoyed this. Uncut, try hard, psych music.

Haha I liked the fact it was uncut but hated the music, guess that's just taste. I'd have much preferred no music over the top of it.

Bradders · February 27, 2020, 10:33:17 am

Haha yeah fair enough, although if there has to be music I'll take banging drum n bass over classical any day

Fiend · February 27, 2020, 10:52:33 am

I definitely approve. Track is Royalston (feat Victoria) - Black Cloud, I bought it a while back. More smooth and rolling than banging tho

. Bradders check my North Wales video, you might like the soundtrack to that.

Don Jebus · February 27, 2020, 01:58:48 pm

Quote from: monkey boy on February 17, 2020, 06:27:35 pm

Quote from: Duma on February 16, 2020, 09:04:36 am

Some great stuff here. Sadly includes a perfect example of a pet hate: crouched ascents of sit starts, he barely bends down to start Thick End of the Wedge!
If your arse wasn't the last thing to leave the floor, it's not a sit, whether or not you used the same hand holds to start. And yes it often makes a massive difference.
Back around.

The first ascent was done as a crouch, it's not a sit start, it's a low start to Home Cooking. Sam started in the right place.

Bloody hell, wish I'd known that, might have shaved a couple of sessions off the million it took

I used 2 pads, 1 in the hole and 1 on top, and I had to put my hiking boots under the pads so I could reach the start from a sit. I did start with left hand on the ear instead of the edge though (same hold just further left, same as Sam by the looks of it). Hard pull on, but he's not really skipped much, and if it's supposed to be a crouch looks sound to me. The meat is the middle of it anyway.

Don Jebus · February 27, 2020, 02:42:08 pm

Also, thought this was quality. Good tunes, bit different, Roberts crushing everything in sight and Americans yelling american things in the back ground (especially when he's on Jade, how the hell is yelling "tight" supposed to help?)

SA Chris · February 27, 2020, 03:30:22 pm

Maybe Goldmember is cheering him on.

Coops_13 · February 27, 2020, 04:07:10 pm

Agreed it's a good video of an amazing trip he must've had. Cleaning up testpieces across the alpine venues including a hard FA. Looks like he didn't spend much time at Lincoln though, good excuse as any to return