UKBouldering.com

Quality Bouldering Videos (part I) (Read 2311650 times)

AndiT

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 666
  • Karma: +33/-3
#3050 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 21, 2011, 09:39:59 pm
Yeah, the guide is wrong with what it says about Thud, it starts with a kick at that grade. Tetris start, pah, where Pete starts from makes no difference whatsoever. I'd be intersted on Ru's take of this. I wonder where he sit started turbo from? From a mat or two perhaps....

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 870
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#3051 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 22, 2011, 05:17:28 pm


Thought I would pop it in the quality thread because it's such a good quality problem!

Lovely and cold this morning, has the grit been called yet?

Drew

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Am I really a
  • Posts: 1739
  • Karma: +36/-4
#3052 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 22, 2011, 10:24:37 pm
Nice. I'm gonna get on ZY this Winter. Looks awesome.

And yes, JB called the Grit a few days ago.

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1936
  • Karma: +120/-0
#3053 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 23, 2011, 08:16:30 pm
Yeah, the guide is wrong with what it says about Thud, it starts with a kick at that grade. Tetris start, pah, where Pete starts from makes no difference whatsoever. I'd be intersted on Ru's take of this. I wonder where he sit started turbo from? From a mat or two perhaps....

I actually started Thud, when I first did it, matched on the undercuts. I thought they'd snap if everyone started like that, so described it from the dish which is where I was told it was originally done from (although I was also told that Paul Higginson had done it from the undercuts aswell).

Turbo, I started matched on the lowest part of the ledge. I probably sat on a mat. My method was completely different. I put my left toe straight on the nubbin that you use on the normal Inertia Reel, shuffled my hands leftwards a bit, rocked up leftwards into the left hand undercut, then did a hard standup/mantel. There's a photo of my original sequence in the last (not latest) Roaches guide. I thought/still think it's a hard move that way.

Beegsyboy

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 61
  • Karma: +1/-0
#3054 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 27, 2011, 09:27:45 am

AdamD

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 100
  • Karma: +2/-0
#3055 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 27, 2011, 10:00:37 pm


Possibly the best climbing video music for a long time!  ;D  Although the interviews are awkward...

tommytwotone

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Southern jessie turned Almscliff devotee
  • Posts: 3647
  • Karma: +200/-3
#3056 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 27, 2011, 11:42:35 pm


Possibly the best climbing video music for a long time!  ;D  Although the interviews are awkward...

Blimey - Ondra @ approx 1h 22mins...what a machine.  :jaw:

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5459
  • Karma: +249/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#3057 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 28, 2011, 02:49:12 pm
Yeah I just wish he'd take more pleasure in his ascents.

Ethan

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 415
  • Karma: +16/-1
#3058 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 28, 2011, 07:01:05 pm

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8046
  • Karma: +745/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#3059 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 29, 2011, 10:10:18 am
to me DG had a little bit disappeared from the main scene, but this video reminded to me that he is one of the few who truly knows his shit.
a beautiful characther and personality emerge from the vid, and also some nice anger.

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5459
  • Karma: +249/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#3060 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 29, 2011, 10:13:35 am
I like where DG is coming from - he's much more in tune with the anarchic spirit of climbing years ago. Just passion for the sport, wherever it leads. Interesting guy to listen to, someone with ideas and articulate enough to make them entertaining.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#3061 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 29, 2011, 12:05:05 pm
Good to see him still operating at the top end with that new 8c too

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2954
  • Karma: +229/-1
  • el flaco lento
#3062 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 29, 2011, 07:19:43 pm
There's a really good interview with Dave at udini:

http://udinigallery.com/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=117&g2_itemId=16849

Well worth a look, if only for the discussion he has half-way through with the interviewer about "7c climbers", who are viewed with some bewilderment: a mixture of compassion and frustration at their inexplicable crapness.  At one point, Dave claims that he's not any stronger than a 7c climber, just better at moving.  I somehow feel a career in coaching does not await!

chriss

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 323
  • Karma: +8/-1
#3063 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 29, 2011, 08:03:28 pm
I love DG & the way he looks at climbing & life in general. I would love to sit in a pub with him & big Fred.

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8046
  • Karma: +745/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#3064 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 29, 2011, 09:07:09 pm
great interview really.
the man is becoming my hero.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5033
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#3065 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 29, 2011, 10:25:32 pm



Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8046
  • Karma: +745/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#3066 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 30, 2011, 07:25:29 am
both very nice.
 :clap2:

mikester

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 67
  • Karma: +5/-0
#3067 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 30, 2011, 08:26:30 am
There's a really good interview with Dave at udini:

http://udinigallery.com/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=117&g2_itemId=16849

Well worth a look, if only for the discussion he has half-way through with the interviewer about "7c climbers", who are viewed with some bewilderment: a mixture of compassion and frustration at their inexplicable crapness.  At one point, Dave claims that he's not any stronger than a 7c climber, just better at moving.  I somehow feel a career in coaching does not await!

Christ, is he on something?! I can hardly keep up with what he's saying. Mind you, not all of it makes a whole lot of sense, but better than some of the anodyne waffle we hear from others.

Grubes

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1443
  • Karma: +50/-0
  • Fat and Weak
#3068 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 30, 2011, 09:39:25 am
There's a really good interview with Dave at udini:

http://udinigallery.com/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=117&g2_itemId=16849

Well worth a look, if only for the discussion he has half-way through with the interviewer about "7c climbers", who are viewed with some bewilderment: a mixture of compassion and frustration at their inexplicable crapness.  At one point, Dave claims that he's not any stronger than a 7c climber, just better at moving.  I somehow feel a career in coaching does not await!
heres a vimeo link to the vid

mrjonathanr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5459
  • Karma: +249/-6
  • Getting fatter, not fitter.
#3069 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 30, 2011, 10:43:51 am
23:42
Interviewer
Quote
What is the crux of Realization?

Dave Graham
Quote
7b+ pff! It's piss. It's like not hard, it's a 7b+ boulder. I mean come on, it's like 8c+ to a 7b+ boulder to a 7a route. With a rest. That's pathetic.
:blink:

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#3070 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 30, 2011, 12:36:20 pm
I've spent a bit of time hanging out with Davey G abroad over the years and always found it entertaining. Others i was with found it a bit much at times  ;D He does talk a lot of shit though and i can confirm he can't do a one arm pull up!

neil h

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1450
  • Karma: +72/-3
  • You think i'm fat
    • sibl
#3071 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 30, 2011, 09:20:29 pm

ok this is only quality because of the route, gerald messed up the render on the footage side of things :), so two days ago we hit accelerator at greau, 8 meter arete 7b bad landing, the climbing is amazing but its 7b all the way to the very top, on a rope its fine, ditch the rope and this is what you get

http://vimeo.com/31305437#comment_5979657

slackline

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18863
  • Karma: +633/-26
    • Sheffield Boulder
#3072 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 31, 2011, 11:46:35 am
Thats a great interview with Dave Graham, interesting insight  (echoes of Dawes' philosophy perhaps?)

Just clocked this for lunchtime viewing 8)




Wipey Why

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1403
  • Karma: +52/-0
#3073 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 31, 2011, 01:10:26 pm
Was wondering when this was going to be finished.

Are there any scenes of them driving to the crag?  :worms:

Wipey Why

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1403
  • Karma: +52/-0
#3074 Re: Quality Bouldering Videos (part I)
October 31, 2011, 01:54:12 pm



 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal