[Johnny Brown]

You people make me sick. Either we're climbing eliminates here, or we're not. Well are we? Think for yourselves now...

[Jim]

Quote Johnny Brown:
"its not an eliminate, its just a very tight line"

PS I'm not surprised your sick on a diet of chicken, lime juice and chocolate croissants

[Houdini]

"its not an eliminate, its just a very tight line"

[Johnny Brown]

As I've said elsewhere, any problem allowing holds for feet but not hands is a nonsense and has no place in the outdoors.

[abarro81]

By the 'no remergence foothold', do you mean for the very last bit - no rocking out like on hard grit? I didn't even realise that hold was out for anything - why would you put your hand on it? From matched sloper I went out to first bit of lip with LH, then left foot out to the submergence hold out left, right toe below it under first roof, go again with left to the hold Bently gets on hard grit, right toe to under second roof and reach through (like on HG).. maybe I'm just shit at spotting sequences, but how would going even further left on the lip (to the remergence rockover hold) with your hand help? The move up to the crimps above the second roof is probably the easiest on the problem...

[Johnny Brown]

Play to your own parameters, that's all I do. I think its nice to keep holds in their rightful place. Likewise no jibbing off right on that big break on Blind date.

[dave]

traversing off anything on that block is still jibbing off since everything is the start to a route/s, its arbitrary so you might as wall make it logical. in my mind when you've got a boulder problem start to a route if you climb up past the hard part and find a jug rail at 12ft above which you're into ankle shagging territory (ask cofe) then you've done the problem. theres no hero points to be had at remergence.

[Johnny Brown]

No, there's doing a good rockover to add some yin to your yang, and there's jinning off at the first opportunity. Logical finish to these probs is the break above the second roof, not 'once your hands are above the second roof, do whatever'. Its this weak-livered attitude that leads to tapping hands and dropping off.

[Jim]

you underestimate the Welsh finish. Its becoming very popular these days

[Dolly]

I know this is an old topic but what was the conclusion on the use of the Remergence holds then ? (It will be on my Aims for 2011 list)
Its basically no use of the big hold on Remergence isn't it ? - ie you can use the crimpy things, but nothing further left

[The Sausage]

I think that seems to be the done thing.

[uptown]

Its basically no use of the big hold on Remergence isn't it ? - ie you can use the crimpy things, but nothing further left

I certainly used the good hold on remergence for left hand and left boot, well before the advent of ukb, and hence this kind of discussion. Really good problem, logical and fun this way.

[Jim]

I use the remegrance hold on the lip of the 2nd roof for my foot but not my hand. I suppose I should go back and do it without this hold completely but I'm not really bothered about it.
Obviously using it for your hand is totally cheating

[Dolly]

OKcheers for the replies.
I think then that I should go for it the harder way with no use of the Remergence hold out left, despite that being a more logical problem (along with using the crimp next to the slopers)

[Johnny Brown]

I don't know whether the crimp actually makes it easier, I've just never seen it used. The foothold to me is just logical - its not on the problem. Its not a right-hand start into Remergence, its an independent problem as much as any here can be. The rockover on the handhold you do use is scarcely harder anyway, unless you're some wall-bred chimp for whom topping out involves tapping the back of your hand.