[Dolly]

Anybody done it ?
Can get to snatch the first bit of the lip OK -but after that ??
Is it just a case of going again or do I just need to hold it first time ?

All help/suggestions most welcome

[Adam Lincoln]

Anybody done it ?
Can get to snatch the first bit of the lip OK -but after that ??
Is it just a case of going again or do I just need to hold it first time ?

All help/suggestions most welcome

Get your heel on the rail under the starting crimp. Dont leave it there mind if you fall off!

[Doylo]

If you can get there you should be quids in, not too bad after that.

[Johnny Brown]

Get your heel on the rail under the starting crimp

Have you done it like that or is it just an idea?? Can't see how this would help.  :?

My full beta is on the other thread below. Similar title :wink: The key is to really sit on left foot when you hit the lip, then go again to better bit.

[Adam Lincoln]

Get your heel on the rail under the starting crimp

Have you done it like that or is it just an idea?? Can't see how this would help.  :?

My full beta is on the other thread below. Similar title :wink: The key is to really sit on left foot when you hit the lip, then go again to better bit.

Saw a tall guy do it this way tuther day

[Bonjoy]

Are you sure your not thinking of the lanky cheating version of Blind Drunk?

[Adam Lincoln]

Are you sure your not thinking of the lanky cheating version of Blind Drunk?

No no, defo Blind fig. If that is the one that starts for Blind date and matches the 2 poor hold then goes left to two lip holds and finish as for Remergence. (Or is it Submergence) Always get them two confused!

[Johnny Brown]

Bizarre :shock: What move was it good for? The move for the lip?

[Dolly]

do you mean the rail under the roof ?
When I go again on the top bit I've only got my left foot on, right foot is just sort of hanging around  :?

[Adam Lincoln]

Bizarre :shock: What move was it good for? The move for the lip?

Yup! This guy cant climb for toffee though! Just really long!

[Adam Lincoln]

do you mean the rail under the roof ?
When I go again on the top bit I've only got my left foot on, right foot is just sort of hanging around  :?

Yup, as i say, he is long as!

[r-man]

I just noticed that the old rockfax states "once above the lip [ie. once matched on sloper] the only allowed foothold is pebble K".

This isn't in the new guide. Does it make no difference, or is the current version not as hard as the old school eliminate?

[dave]

i heard an explanation of this one once but can't remember what it was. I don't think anyone these days pays attention to it (i think most people do the top bit the same a bentley in hard grit), it probably makes no difference and certainly makes no sense - for a start how would you top it out?

(P.S. is this a suitable subject for post #10000?)

[north_country_boy]

Did this recently: matched sloper, left hand up to lip rocking over on smear as for Blind Date....to right hand hold on lip, right outside edge behind left on lower lip then move left toe down to the left hand hold on blind drunk/foothold on remergence then go again on lip with left hand to crimp, rght hand up to match lip and pop up for crimps on remergence, and finish as for remergence....great problem pretty much as Neil does on Hard Grit but he reaches straight to far hold on lip with his huuuugggeee span!

[r-man]

i heard an explanation of this one once but can't remember what it was. I don't think anyone these days pays attention to it (i think most people do the top bit the same a bentley in hard grit), it probably makes no difference and certainly makes no sense - for a start how would you top it out?

(P.S. is this a suitable subject for post #10000?)

Ah.

p.s. You can always try harder for post 20000. We'll all have bionic fingers by then. And energy absorbing forcefields instead of crashpads.

[Johnny Brown]

Only rules on this is that the diagonal crimp is out (left of the blind date sloper), and no topping out by rocking on the remergence foothold. If its out for hands its out for feet remember!

[Nigel]

Does this mean that even if Harris does Submergence and ticks the block, then in your eyes he won't be "King of Remergence" because he uses the diagonal crimp on BF? Please say yes, I want to be King of Remergence.

[Johnny Brown]

Harris uses the diagonal crimp on BF? I'm sure he knows this is wrong.

[Jim]

quote nige circa 2007 "I'd rather scoop my eyeballs out with a rusty spoon than climb at remergance"
2008 " i want to be king of remergance"

I'm sure aurther doesn't use the crimp right of the slopers on BF, have you been eating cheese and sleep surfing again nige?

[dave]

and no topping out by rocking on the remergence foothold.

bentley uses this hold for feet on hard grit.

[Jim]

so did I and I'm still having the tick.

[cofe]

Tut tut. Such shit stirring. JB should be banned for stooping so low. I say ban him. Ban him up. Right up.

[dave]

so did I and I'm still having the tick.

exactly. if its good enough for bentley, its good enough for me (i'm not having my cock pierced.)

[Dolly]

Has Neil got his cock pierced ?

[dave]

I've not personally checked but its a ritch patterson quote from Stonelove.

[Johnny Brown]

You people make me sick. Either we're climbing eliminates here, or we're not. Well are we? Think for yourselves now...

[Jim]

Quote Johnny Brown:
"its not an eliminate, its just a very tight line"

PS I'm not surprised your sick on a diet of chicken, lime juice and chocolate croissants

[Houdini]

"its not an eliminate, its just a very tight line"

[Johnny Brown]

As I've said elsewhere, any problem allowing holds for feet but not hands is a nonsense and has no place in the outdoors.

[abarro81]

By the 'no remergence foothold', do you mean for the very last bit - no rocking out like on hard grit? I didn't even realise that hold was out for anything - why would you put your hand on it? From matched sloper I went out to first bit of lip with LH, then left foot out to the submergence hold out left, right toe below it under first roof, go again with left to the hold Bently gets on hard grit, right toe to under second roof and reach through (like on HG).. maybe I'm just shit at spotting sequences, but how would going even further left on the lip (to the remergence rockover hold) with your hand help? The move up to the crimps above the second roof is probably the easiest on the problem...

[Johnny Brown]

Play to your own parameters, that's all I do. I think its nice to keep holds in their rightful place. Likewise no jibbing off right on that big break on Blind date.

[dave]

traversing off anything on that block is still jibbing off since everything is the start to a route/s, its arbitrary so you might as wall make it logical. in my mind when you've got a boulder problem start to a route if you climb up past the hard part and find a jug rail at 12ft above which you're into ankle shagging territory (ask cofe) then you've done the problem. theres no hero points to be had at remergence.

[Johnny Brown]

No, there's doing a good rockover to add some yin to your yang, and there's jinning off at the first opportunity. Logical finish to these probs is the break above the second roof, not 'once your hands are above the second roof, do whatever'. Its this weak-livered attitude that leads to tapping hands and dropping off.

[Jim]

you underestimate the Welsh finish. Its becoming very popular these days

[Dolly]

I know this is an old topic but what was the conclusion on the use of the Remergence holds then ? (It will be on my Aims for 2011 list)
Its basically no use of the big hold on Remergence isn't it ? - ie you can use the crimpy things, but nothing further left

[The Sausage]

I think that seems to be the done thing.

[uptown]

Its basically no use of the big hold on Remergence isn't it ? - ie you can use the crimpy things, but nothing further left

I certainly used the good hold on remergence for left hand and left boot, well before the advent of ukb, and hence this kind of discussion. Really good problem, logical and fun this way.

[Jim]

I use the remegrance hold on the lip of the 2nd roof for my foot but not my hand. I suppose I should go back and do it without this hold completely but I'm not really bothered about it.
Obviously using it for your hand is totally cheating

[Dolly]

OKcheers for the replies.
I think then that I should go for it the harder way with no use of the Remergence hold out left, despite that being a more logical problem (along with using the crimp next to the slopers)

[Johnny Brown]

I don't know whether the crimp actually makes it easier, I've just never seen it used. The foothold to me is just logical - its not on the problem. Its not a right-hand start into Remergence, its an independent problem as much as any here can be. The rockover on the handhold you do use is scarcely harder anyway, unless you're some wall-bred chimp for whom topping out involves tapping the back of your hand.