[r-man]

Stickier than red chilli rubber, I won't be persuaded otherwise. But perhaps near the bottom of the league as far as sticky rubber goes - been ages since I had a 5.10 pinkie, I remember it being great but falling apart in just 3 months.

[Mr.Burns]

I think you could be right Dave, I've slipped off stuff a few times then got dead phyced and stuck it next go.The more important thing in my mind is how well the heel fits, don't know about these new 5.10s but the ana lace ups have a terrible heel!!! this is why I like the Mad Rock.

[dave]

OK i can't think of an example where anyones told em scarpa was the stickiest, but i suppose you get the occaisional person who doesn't[/] complain that its the shittest rubber, which i suppose is the scarpa equivalent of having their praises sung.

althought tobe fair i don't think scarpa rubber is intrinsically that bad (its basically the same as sportiva innit?) its just always handicapped by being glued to a pair of shit scarpa boots.

[james]

Onyx is well sticky and seems to be wearing well.  Cant wait for it to be on the lace and velcro

[Pantontino]

I reckon fit is actually the most important factor. I've got a pair of 5.10s and I haven't felt anything particularly different about the stickiness of the rubber, compared to the Scarpa and Sportiva shoes I've taken to wearing of late.

I just wish they would relaunch the old school Lasers - best rock shoes I've ever worn.

[webbo]

when i relaunched my climbing career.i had 2 pairs of lazers from when i climbed before.one pair i had resoled with stealth,the other pair were virtually brand new.guess which were the best.
i gave the new ones to my daughter to climb in.

[Pantontino]

As a fellow father I find that story so touching. I too would have sacrificed my own performance on the crag by giving the brand new Lasers to my beloved daughter, and keeping the shite 5.10 resoles for myself.
I say 'would' because she's only 4 and hasn't progressed beyond those funny trainers with the lights in the soles - thinking about it, maybe someone should make some rock shoes with lights in the side. You could call them...

[webbo]

if i had lights on my shoes i might actually be able to see where i'm placing my feet.

[dave]

who was it who used to make them trainers with the lights in? was it british knights or LA gear or summert like that?

On a similar tip they aught to make reebok pump basketball rockshoes, or Pony or some shit.

[saltbeef]

LA gear. but i think all and sundry do them now. reckon you could get a nice pair at barnsley market if you're really psyched dave

[Ru]

Right, got two new pairs o' shoes through today, Blue Velcros with normal Stealth C4 and Galileos with the Onyx stuff. Both brand new, clean rubber, straight out of box. So the rubber can be compared in an accurate SCIENCE experiment style:

Results:

Sticking the shoes together by the sole test: Onyx 1, Stealth nil.

Walking round the kitchen to see what they feel like test: Stealths go "clip clop clip clop" as you walk on the vinyl floor. Onyx goes "Schlop... tic, schlop...tic" as they unstick themselves from the floor. Onyx 2, Stealth nil.

Inclined chair test: One of each shoe on an inclined chair. One has a copy of "Modern Equity" (thick book) to weight it down, the other "Constitutional and Administrative Law" (thick book) to weigh it down. Chair tilted until one shoe slides off. The books are swapped round and the test repeated. Repeat x5. Onyx wins every time. Onyx 3, Stealth nil.

So there you go. Onyx rubber is the stickiest, SCIENCE says so. But why is it more sticky? Dunno, but at an educated guess it will be due to SCIENCE.

[a dense loner]

which pair were better for campusing in RU?

[Ru]

which pair were better for campusing in RU?

Easy now, I'm working on it. This is quite a complicated test as the shoes must be disguised before the campus session. That's so I don't get all excited about wearing the Onyx shoes, and campus better for that reason alone.

[Fiend]

Do you wear a lab coat and goggles when doing these tests? And when doing particularly explosive downgrades for the guide?

[SA Chris]

a lot of it with rubber is just a placebo effect - i mean we all know how much confidence has to play is climbing grit for example. if someone buys a shoe and wholeheartedly believes its going to be reet sticky then they will believe it and feel it (to a certain extent).

And you have just ruined the placebo effect by telling us this.

Bit like that Smack the Pony sketch "I'm going to prescribe you a placebo"

[vivahate]

whats the fit like? same as the ani v?

[Sypeland]

UPS have just deliverd two boxes from 5.10, I will open them now and post an initial report!!

[Sypeland]

Sadly I dont have my size so I can't try them on but yes they are stiffer, but not a lot. they are certainly stickier.
The heal is higher at the back and less agressive looking, so I suspect they are less "toe down". They are supposed to be less aysemetric, if they are it looks so marginal you will have to take 5.10's word for it.

[luckyjez]

From a few weeks of selling them at Outside, the concensus seems to be; stickier, stiffer due to thicker rubber, better fitting and more comfortable heel but it is higher. Also marginally wider. I reckon that a lot of people may shy away from them for grit bouldering due to the extra stiffness and reduction in 'feel', even though they are stickier.

[Falling Down]

I bought a pair of these last Sunday and on the way to the crag stuck the soles together and waved them around and they didn't come unstuck..

Did some routes down Cheedale and they were fantastic.

I've got wide feet and always struggled with 5.10's but these shoes are just about perfect...

[Scouse D]

LA gear. but i think all and sundry do them now. reckon you could get a nice pair at barnsley market if you're really psyched dave

LA gear were the first but soon followed by BK. They were known as BK Lights. When you walk they signal "mug me" in morse code

[Red Dwarf]

althought tobe fair i don't think scarpa rubber is intrinsically that bad (its basically the same as sportiva innit?) its just always handicapped by being glued to a pair of shit scarpa boots.

...

Cheers Dave...I still like my dominators!...although I have to admit, I'm climbing in a pair of (C4) resoled stingers at the moment...

[dontfollowme]

Has anyone tried the new Scarpa LE Vortexes?