[Sypeland]

This is the new velroe shoe from 5.10 with their new Onyx rubber. 16 times more sticky than stealth C4. The shoe is less agresive than the Anasazi velcroe and is stiffer with a 6mm wedge of rubber.

gaz Parry can be seen climbing Crucifix a pair on the "how to climb a boulder problem" page of this months Climb.

As I will probably be stocking these soon and I havent seen a pair yet, I was wondering if anyone has had first hand experince of using a pair and what you think of them?

[stiff147]

soz haven't tried any on but had a look in outside (hathersage) at weekend and they have some.

look v.similar to new fusion 4 rubber - seems to peel off - im gonna wait and see what they are like - do well to compete with the pinks (please dont say they are gonna put this new rubber on all 5.10s???)

[dave]

bashplate has a pair and rates them. apparently they stick like shit to a blanket.

[Dave Flanagan]

This is the new velroe shoe from 5.10 with their new Onyx rubber. 16 times more sticky than stealth C4. The shoe is less agresive than the Anasazi velcroe and is stiffer with a 6mm wedge of rubber.

gaz Parry can be seen climbing Crucifix a pair on the "how to climb a boulder problem" page of this months Climb.

As I will probably be stocking these soon and I havent seen a pair yet, I was wondering if anyone has had first hand experince of using a pair and what you think of them?

Got a pair a while back, haven't used them much. They are very small for their stated size which doesn't seem to correspond to other 5.10 models.

[cowboyhat]

Bungle has some. Says the thick sole isn't very sensitive in any way whatsoever. they were recommended to him as a shoe for 'heavier' climbers. He said he'd wear them at the wall.

[Percy B]

Had a pair for the last 3 weeks, and have not used anything else since I got 'em. Down side is they are very stiff, and the rubber is quite thick, so they ain't so sensitive. However, this pails into insignificance compared to the upside.

Heel is awesome - at last a 5:10 with a proper good heel.
Onyx rubber is stickier than anything I have ever worn before - by miles.
Rubber seems to be way more durable too, so your shoes will last a lot longer.
They don't stretch so fit will always be bueno.
They is good for heavy climbers, but they is good for light climbers too - because they are good full stop.

Onyx rubber bodes well for future 5:10 boots with it on, but the Galileo's are the only model with this sticky stuff on at the moment.
As for lack of sensitivity, I dispatched V10 in a pair last week with no bother so that'll be bollocks then. As I say, bit stiffer than I normally go for, but it don't matter 'cos they work so well.

[Carnage]

Don't expect to see Onyx rubber being sported on any other shoes for some time. Evidently 5.10's little backroom wizards can only produce it in small batches and the Galileo is the only one to have it for now.

[bulldozer]

The rubber does not peel off.

Have had my pair for 3 month now, and a ana. velcro would be much more worn out than this pair so far...

Super sticky, supportive and very good fit.

Crap heel, but better than ana. not much, not as good as V10.

Cato

[iamnotarobot]

Galileos eh.....
Well, Onyx is v.sticky, heel is close fitting but not aggresive enough (tends to slip off foot slightly) toe is not very sensitive.

As for lack of sensitivity, I dispatched V10 in a pair last week with no bother so that'll be bollocks then...

HALAM, so did I, and on every move I was thinking how much easier this would be in a pair of pinks, but maybe thats just me :wink:

[dave]

would put it in context a bit more if percy told us exactly what V10 it was (i.e. if it was in tom's roof then that don't say too much about the rubber), which I'm sure he's dying to do anyway.....:wink:

[Bonjoy]

What does HALAM mean???

[dave]

isn't it a kinda muslim kebab meat?

[David S]

What does HALAM mean???

What I can't believe you're asking this. Surely you've heard Westie and Prince talk about it?

Just for you it means - Have Another Look At Me! HALAM  get it

[Percy B]

No, it wasn't in Tom's roof, wherever that is :wink:

I'd have to be really busting for a shit to go in there............

German Granite, and my apologies for sounding like I wanted people to HALAM?!?! Just trying to illustrate the point that the rubber is particularly sticky. In stealth I can only climb V1's.

[Johnny Brown]

Sounds like germany is the new switzerland....

[a dense loner]

[fatboySlimfast]

so does everyone think these new boots are magnifico-o-o-o-o-o-o

[dave]

beelzebub has a pair put aside for me. For me. For me.

[The Bends]

I have had a pair of these shoes for a couple of weeks now, and I reckon the rubber is the best there is. I have tried them all, and Fusion 4 is crap, it peels really badly, all the others skate in cold weather, except stealth. Onyx works very well in all conditions, especially really cold days. You can stick the soles together and shake them for christ's sake! Wear is fantastic, even for my rubbish footwork.
...and it smells nice too.

[Mr.Burns]

I am I the only person who cannot tell if one rubber is stickier than another?? when my foot slips off I put it down to being crap not having bad rubber. I'm not totally ignorant, I think I could tell the difference between a pair of EB's and Lace ups (5.10) but I can see much of a difference with all these fancy modern shoes. Although Mad Rock Hookers are the best  :wink:

[Paz]

No me too.  Certainly if it's Boreal or 5.10, and a good fit and the boot's not knackered, but I did some slabby stuff in my Paranoia's too to be honest.  Saying that in general we're blessed with foot holds in the south and if I ever wanted to try Angel's Share or something I'd be paying more attention.

[r-man]

when my foot slips off I put it down to being crap not having bad rubber.

Yeah, I used to think that, and I'm sure it's the larger part of the problem. But a while back I tried Telli at Stanage. Got hold of a pebble and pasted my foot, commited and was just about to slap for the hold, when ssssslip! there she goes, and me as well. At the time I was really pissed off with myself - sure my shoes had a couple of holes in em, but it wasn't that hard. But a month later I got a pair of paranoias and was amazed that I could do laps on a slab problem at the wall that with with the red chillis (those cheap red ones) I found super tenous. I swapped shoes just to check it out, and yep, the red chillis just don't stick. Never buying red chillis again!

[dave]

a lot of it with rubber is just a placebo effect - i mean we all know how much confidence has to play is climbing grit for example. if someone buys a shoe and wholeheartedly believes its going to be reet sticky then they will believe it and feel it (to a certain extent). I mean theres always someone who tells you that scarpa/sportiva/whatever rubber is the stickiest. A lot of footwork is psychological, paste your foot and if you believe then 9 times out of ten you'll stick to the hold regardless of what you're wearing - personally I think its this psychological barrier is the greatest to overcome, much more so than getting strong - on the other hand on certain days its also the easiest thing in the world to master.

[Ru]

a lot of it with rubber is just a placebo effect

True, but that said, stealth (not had the pleasure of Onyx yet...) is waaay better than anything else out there.

[tommytwotone]

...theres always someone who tells you that scarpa...rubber is the stickiest...

no. sorry. can't say I've ever heard that one!

 :wink:  :roll:

[r-man]

Stickier than red chilli rubber, I won't be persuaded otherwise. But perhaps near the bottom of the league as far as sticky rubber goes - been ages since I had a 5.10 pinkie, I remember it being great but falling apart in just 3 months.

[Mr.Burns]

I think you could be right Dave, I've slipped off stuff a few times then got dead phyced and stuck it next go.The more important thing in my mind is how well the heel fits, don't know about these new 5.10s but the ana lace ups have a terrible heel!!! this is why I like the Mad Rock.

[dave]

OK i can't think of an example where anyones told em scarpa was the stickiest, but i suppose you get the occaisional person who doesn't[/] complain that its the shittest rubber, which i suppose is the scarpa equivalent of having their praises sung.

althought tobe fair i don't think scarpa rubber is intrinsically that bad (its basically the same as sportiva innit?) its just always handicapped by being glued to a pair of shit scarpa boots.

[james]

Onyx is well sticky and seems to be wearing well.  Cant wait for it to be on the lace and velcro

[Pantontino]

I reckon fit is actually the most important factor. I've got a pair of 5.10s and I haven't felt anything particularly different about the stickiness of the rubber, compared to the Scarpa and Sportiva shoes I've taken to wearing of late.

I just wish they would relaunch the old school Lasers - best rock shoes I've ever worn.

[webbo]

when i relaunched my climbing career.i had 2 pairs of lazers from when i climbed before.one pair i had resoled with stealth,the other pair were virtually brand new.guess which were the best.
i gave the new ones to my daughter to climb in.

[Pantontino]

As a fellow father I find that story so touching. I too would have sacrificed my own performance on the crag by giving the brand new Lasers to my beloved daughter, and keeping the shite 5.10 resoles for myself.
I say 'would' because she's only 4 and hasn't progressed beyond those funny trainers with the lights in the soles - thinking about it, maybe someone should make some rock shoes with lights in the side. You could call them...

[webbo]

if i had lights on my shoes i might actually be able to see where i'm placing my feet.

[dave]

who was it who used to make them trainers with the lights in? was it british knights or LA gear or summert like that?

On a similar tip they aught to make reebok pump basketball rockshoes, or Pony or some shit.

[saltbeef]

LA gear. but i think all and sundry do them now. reckon you could get a nice pair at barnsley market if you're really psyched dave

[Ru]

Right, got two new pairs o' shoes through today, Blue Velcros with normal Stealth C4 and Galileos with the Onyx stuff. Both brand new, clean rubber, straight out of box. So the rubber can be compared in an accurate SCIENCE experiment style:

Results:

Sticking the shoes together by the sole test: Onyx 1, Stealth nil.

Walking round the kitchen to see what they feel like test: Stealths go "clip clop clip clop" as you walk on the vinyl floor. Onyx goes "Schlop... tic, schlop...tic" as they unstick themselves from the floor. Onyx 2, Stealth nil.

Inclined chair test: One of each shoe on an inclined chair. One has a copy of "Modern Equity" (thick book) to weight it down, the other "Constitutional and Administrative Law" (thick book) to weigh it down. Chair tilted until one shoe slides off. The books are swapped round and the test repeated. Repeat x5. Onyx wins every time. Onyx 3, Stealth nil.

So there you go. Onyx rubber is the stickiest, SCIENCE says so. But why is it more sticky? Dunno, but at an educated guess it will be due to SCIENCE.

[a dense loner]

which pair were better for campusing in RU?

[Ru]

which pair were better for campusing in RU?

Easy now, I'm working on it. This is quite a complicated test as the shoes must be disguised before the campus session. That's so I don't get all excited about wearing the Onyx shoes, and campus better for that reason alone.

[Fiend]

Do you wear a lab coat and goggles when doing these tests? And when doing particularly explosive downgrades for the guide?

[SA Chris]

a lot of it with rubber is just a placebo effect - i mean we all know how much confidence has to play is climbing grit for example. if someone buys a shoe and wholeheartedly believes its going to be reet sticky then they will believe it and feel it (to a certain extent).

And you have just ruined the placebo effect by telling us this.

Bit like that Smack the Pony sketch "I'm going to prescribe you a placebo"

[vivahate]

whats the fit like? same as the ani v?

[Sypeland]

UPS have just deliverd two boxes from 5.10, I will open them now and post an initial report!!

[Sypeland]

Sadly I dont have my size so I can't try them on but yes they are stiffer, but not a lot. they are certainly stickier.
The heal is higher at the back and less agressive looking, so I suspect they are less "toe down". They are supposed to be less aysemetric, if they are it looks so marginal you will have to take 5.10's word for it.

[luckyjez]

From a few weeks of selling them at Outside, the concensus seems to be; stickier, stiffer due to thicker rubber, better fitting and more comfortable heel but it is higher. Also marginally wider. I reckon that a lot of people may shy away from them for grit bouldering due to the extra stiffness and reduction in 'feel', even though they are stickier.

[Falling Down]

I bought a pair of these last Sunday and on the way to the crag stuck the soles together and waved them around and they didn't come unstuck..

Did some routes down Cheedale and they were fantastic.

I've got wide feet and always struggled with 5.10's but these shoes are just about perfect...

[Scouse D]

LA gear. but i think all and sundry do them now. reckon you could get a nice pair at barnsley market if you're really psyched dave

LA gear were the first but soon followed by BK. They were known as BK Lights. When you walk they signal "mug me" in morse code

[Red Dwarf]

althought tobe fair i don't think scarpa rubber is intrinsically that bad (its basically the same as sportiva innit?) its just always handicapped by being glued to a pair of shit scarpa boots.

...

Cheers Dave...I still like my dominators!...although I have to admit, I'm climbing in a pair of (C4) resoled stingers at the moment...

[dontfollowme]

Has anyone tried the new Scarpa LE Vortexes?