[Sypeland]

This is the new velroe shoe from 5.10 with their new Onyx rubber. 16 times more sticky than stealth C4. The shoe is less agresive than the Anasazi velcroe and is stiffer with a 6mm wedge of rubber.

gaz Parry can be seen climbing Crucifix a pair on the "how to climb a boulder problem" page of this months Climb.

As I will probably be stocking these soon and I havent seen a pair yet, I was wondering if anyone has had first hand experince of using a pair and what you think of them?

[stiff147]

soz haven't tried any on but had a look in outside (hathersage) at weekend and they have some.

look v.similar to new fusion 4 rubber - seems to peel off - im gonna wait and see what they are like - do well to compete with the pinks (please dont say they are gonna put this new rubber on all 5.10s???)

[dave]

bashplate has a pair and rates them. apparently they stick like shit to a blanket.

[Dave Flanagan]

This is the new velroe shoe from 5.10 with their new Onyx rubber. 16 times more sticky than stealth C4. The shoe is less agresive than the Anasazi velcroe and is stiffer with a 6mm wedge of rubber.

gaz Parry can be seen climbing Crucifix a pair on the "how to climb a boulder problem" page of this months Climb.

As I will probably be stocking these soon and I havent seen a pair yet, I was wondering if anyone has had first hand experince of using a pair and what you think of them?

Got a pair a while back, haven't used them much. They are very small for their stated size which doesn't seem to correspond to other 5.10 models.

[cowboyhat]

Bungle has some. Says the thick sole isn't very sensitive in any way whatsoever. they were recommended to him as a shoe for 'heavier' climbers. He said he'd wear them at the wall.

[Percy B]

Had a pair for the last 3 weeks, and have not used anything else since I got 'em. Down side is they are very stiff, and the rubber is quite thick, so they ain't so sensitive. However, this pails into insignificance compared to the upside.

Heel is awesome - at last a 5:10 with a proper good heel.
Onyx rubber is stickier than anything I have ever worn before - by miles.
Rubber seems to be way more durable too, so your shoes will last a lot longer.
They don't stretch so fit will always be bueno.
They is good for heavy climbers, but they is good for light climbers too - because they are good full stop.

Onyx rubber bodes well for future 5:10 boots with it on, but the Galileo's are the only model with this sticky stuff on at the moment.
As for lack of sensitivity, I dispatched V10 in a pair last week with no bother so that'll be bollocks then. As I say, bit stiffer than I normally go for, but it don't matter 'cos they work so well.

[Carnage]

Don't expect to see Onyx rubber being sported on any other shoes for some time. Evidently 5.10's little backroom wizards can only produce it in small batches and the Galileo is the only one to have it for now.

[bulldozer]

The rubber does not peel off.

Have had my pair for 3 month now, and a ana. velcro would be much more worn out than this pair so far...

Super sticky, supportive and very good fit.

Crap heel, but better than ana. not much, not as good as V10.

Cato

[iamnotarobot]

Galileos eh.....
Well, Onyx is v.sticky, heel is close fitting but not aggresive enough (tends to slip off foot slightly) toe is not very sensitive.

As for lack of sensitivity, I dispatched V10 in a pair last week with no bother so that'll be bollocks then...

HALAM, so did I, and on every move I was thinking how much easier this would be in a pair of pinks, but maybe thats just me :wink:

[dave]

would put it in context a bit more if percy told us exactly what V10 it was (i.e. if it was in tom's roof then that don't say too much about the rubber), which I'm sure he's dying to do anyway.....:wink:

[Bonjoy]

What does HALAM mean???

[dave]

isn't it a kinda muslim kebab meat?

[David S]

What does HALAM mean???

What I can't believe you're asking this. Surely you've heard Westie and Prince talk about it?

Just for you it means - Have Another Look At Me! HALAM  get it

[Percy B]

No, it wasn't in Tom's roof, wherever that is :wink:

I'd have to be really busting for a shit to go in there............

German Granite, and my apologies for sounding like I wanted people to HALAM?!?! Just trying to illustrate the point that the rubber is particularly sticky. In stealth I can only climb V1's.

[Johnny Brown]

Sounds like germany is the new switzerland....

[a dense loner]

[fatboySlimfast]

so does everyone think these new boots are magnifico-o-o-o-o-o-o

[dave]

beelzebub has a pair put aside for me. For me. For me.

[The Bends]

I have had a pair of these shoes for a couple of weeks now, and I reckon the rubber is the best there is. I have tried them all, and Fusion 4 is crap, it peels really badly, all the others skate in cold weather, except stealth. Onyx works very well in all conditions, especially really cold days. You can stick the soles together and shake them for christ's sake! Wear is fantastic, even for my rubbish footwork.
...and it smells nice too.

[Mr.Burns]

I am I the only person who cannot tell if one rubber is stickier than another?? when my foot slips off I put it down to being crap not having bad rubber. I'm not totally ignorant, I think I could tell the difference between a pair of EB's and Lace ups (5.10) but I can see much of a difference with all these fancy modern shoes. Although Mad Rock Hookers are the best  :wink:

[Paz]

No me too.  Certainly if it's Boreal or 5.10, and a good fit and the boot's not knackered, but I did some slabby stuff in my Paranoia's too to be honest.  Saying that in general we're blessed with foot holds in the south and if I ever wanted to try Angel's Share or something I'd be paying more attention.

[r-man]

when my foot slips off I put it down to being crap not having bad rubber.

Yeah, I used to think that, and I'm sure it's the larger part of the problem. But a while back I tried Telli at Stanage. Got hold of a pebble and pasted my foot, commited and was just about to slap for the hold, when ssssslip! there she goes, and me as well. At the time I was really pissed off with myself - sure my shoes had a couple of holes in em, but it wasn't that hard. But a month later I got a pair of paranoias and was amazed that I could do laps on a slab problem at the wall that with with the red chillis (those cheap red ones) I found super tenous. I swapped shoes just to check it out, and yep, the red chillis just don't stick. Never buying red chillis again!

[dave]

a lot of it with rubber is just a placebo effect - i mean we all know how much confidence has to play is climbing grit for example. if someone buys a shoe and wholeheartedly believes its going to be reet sticky then they will believe it and feel it (to a certain extent). I mean theres always someone who tells you that scarpa/sportiva/whatever rubber is the stickiest. A lot of footwork is psychological, paste your foot and if you believe then 9 times out of ten you'll stick to the hold regardless of what you're wearing - personally I think its this psychological barrier is the greatest to overcome, much more so than getting strong - on the other hand on certain days its also the easiest thing in the world to master.

[Ru]

a lot of it with rubber is just a placebo effect

True, but that said, stealth (not had the pleasure of Onyx yet...) is waaay better than anything else out there.

[tommytwotone]

...theres always someone who tells you that scarpa...rubber is the stickiest...

no. sorry. can't say I've ever heard that one!

 :wink:  :roll: