[Doylo]

Who do people think are the up and coming beasts under 20.  Top three in my mind are Richard Simpson, Danny Cattell and Ryan Pasquill.  Richard's done shit loads in a relatively shirt space of time, obviously a beast. Danny's only 17 yet he's climbed v11, and could climb even harder when he does his project in the cave.  Ryan is the major talent though, not sure if many people realise but he is a proper beast.  Climbs V11 without really trying and he's flashed e8!  On sunday at stanage he just walked up brad pit, the storm and the joker. God knows what he could do if he actually seiged something!  He's got a really unique frame, a massive span and perfect technique.

[Avoiding the Traitor]

Also watch out for UKB's James! .. he is damn good boulderer at only 17!

[Nigel]

I've climbed with all four of them, they're all really good. Ryan is amazing and Simpson is well strong, but in terms of numbers Danny will climb the hardest I reckon, because he knows how to seige!

[Dan]

Talking of Richard Simpson.

After spending the last three days in wales, making use of ok conditions,
he made the second ascent of the Caseg Groove Sit down Given V12 in about 30 minutes making it look about V8, when asked what he thought about the grade he laughed, smiled and said something like they always feel easy when you do them perhaps im just climbing well or maybe im not, awesome problem though. This was after spending 1 hour on Diesel roof another hour on Pool of Bethesda which he came so so close to repeating untill a nasty flapper occurred from the sharp porthole and running a few laps on Jerrys roof the same day this beeng something stupid like his 5th day on.

The next day after feeling very tired and with possibly the most fucked skin ive ever seen, he repeated The Spoon machine V11 at the Pac man boulders after spending about 20 minutes on the problem again laughing and mentioning something about getting fed up of climbing V11's i wish we could all say that. This boys on fire ive never seen anything like it, he's off to Siurana soon to tick some 8c's and  a load of 8B's He says casually.

What a joke

[dobbin]

I've climbed with Richard on a number of occasions at the Foundry and he is v.v.v.v.v.strong, he's also a safe lad, and it does make a change from all us northern monkeys to hear his brummie tones discuss sequences!

[Greg C]

What you on about? The Peak is in the Midlands!!

Greg

[Doylo]

Why doesn't Richard downgrade Caseg sit start. He blatantly doesn't think its V12. Katz gave it V10/11 first anyway. There's not many people in the world who climb proper V12 in 30 minutes! Just cos Vickers got spanked on it doesn't mean its v12. He should downgrade spoon machine too if he thinks it V10!

[Pantontino]

Fantastic efforts from Danny and Richard. It's good to see some new blood coming through, stirring things up a bit.
As for the grade of Caseg Groove sit down: I guess it should go down to V11. Mark's sequence probably is harder, but I suppose its hard to tell. Perhaps he just found a body specific method, that - surprise, surprise - no-one else could move on.
Richard used a different hold out to the right, and fair play to him for unlocking the secret and despatching the problem in a single visit. Why no-one else spotted this is a wonder. Perhaps they did, but still couldn't do it?
Whatever the grade, Richard's enthusiasm for the line confirmed Mark's feelings that this is one of the best boulder problems in the UK.

Cheers, Simon.

PS Failed on my project again late this afty - too greasy, too weak...etc (stop laughing you bastards!) Never mind, the view was nice, and at least it gets me out of the house. It's good for us old folk to get exercise you know.

[Dan]

Richard genually dosent know what grade Caseg is, his sequence reuires very specific body positions and body types, ie short person who can get their foot up to their face, i personally think the way rich did it will be near impossible for taller climbers, and then if you are the right body size you still have the problem of having to pull and slap offf the hold that richard used, To be honest you cannoit really call this a hold more like a smear but richard is very very strong on these types of open handed ripples, hence he dispatched Full power at Gardoms a confirmed V12 in about an hour or something stupid which has similar holds but caseg groove isnt on grit so less friction.
Chris considering the amount of V11's richard has sent in very quick times ie. he wokrs out a sequnece rest for ten minutes then sends them in about sub ten trys usually taking him about 1 hour tops i would not be surpried if he found a V12 that really suiterd him and sent it in a super quick time hence Caseg groove sit down. Richards own words were if i had to design a hard problem using all my strengths and one which suited me perfect, i couldnt desgin a better on than this problem.
Spoon machine was a funny one he had alot of trys but did it in about 20 minutes, but say about 25 trys, he has done several V11's such as the Joker in less trys than this so it could still be V11, but its one of those problems that are basic no tricks you either have the power or you dont and if you have the power you will find it pretty easy if you dont you wont get your arse off the ground. Having small fingers and pain tolerance also helps. I hope things are clearer, i shall get richard to post his view on the subject when i see him.

[Doylo]

Not trying to take anything away from richard, but i thought Full power had been V11 for a while now.  Totally impressed by what he's been doing though, caseg sit start in 30 minutes. Kin ell!!!   He should defo go back to Pool of Bethesda till he does it! And what about the sit start, v13, unrepeated, how about it Rich?

[John Cooke]

Gotta put a shout in there for Stew Watson aged 17 Four Font 8a's including Boston Mess SD all done aged 16 Also leads Fr8b, having Magnetic Fields on his tick list Also done at the age of 16!! This lads def got potential Not suprised if no ones heard of him hes pretty damn quiet Currently climbs for the GB junior difficulty team

[hongkongstuey]

Gotta put a shout in there for Stew Watson aged 17 .... Not suprised if no ones heard of him hes pretty damn quiet

Not as quiet as you'd imagine it seems :

http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/features/profiles/youthoftoday/stewwatson/stewartwatson.htm

[dobbin]

Gotta put a shout in there for Stew Watson aged 17 Four Font 8a's including Boston Mess SD all done aged 16 Also leads Fr8b, having Magnetic Fields on his tick list Also done at the age of 16!! This lads def got potential Not suprised if no ones heard of him hes pretty damn quiet Currently climbs for the GB junior difficulty team

Dude, Stu is now 18, no longer on the team and a route setter! He is very good and a nice lad though!