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Couple of new problems at Cratcliffe - maybe? (Read 1527 times)

tommytwotone

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Alright, just wondered if the following were new tings, or have been done before. All probs at Cratcliffe Top Boulders, on the same block as the 'well hidden 5+ arete' in the new guide.

i) To the right of the aforementioned arete, SDS on a low shelf and work out R to get hand in crimps, then pockets on the nose, move back left and mantel large hold with a pocket in the back

ii) Same start but go straight up, using slopey break then higher bit of arete to hit the top

iii) Start as for the 5+ prob in the guide, dyno / static to top

anyone tried the wall left of the 5+ arete? looks well tough...

Bonjoy

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Is this on the most north westerly of the boulders? The wall looks desperate but contrived.
 Whilst on a new probs at Crattcliffe ting, Jamie Lilleman has done a couple of new problems on a newly cleaned block a bit further along the crag from Hueco wall. The slab is about english 5c. To the left is a sloping lip and pinch, starting hanging these pull into scoop and exit left. Tried it on a poor conditions day and couldn't even pull on. Big hands for the broad pinch are useful.

tommytwotone

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yep, it is the most NW of the boulders and yep, the wall does look desp.

I went up the arete with RH on slopey crimp on arete and tried to rock left to get the really bad crimp/undercut thing with LH but no joy. Don't know what I'd do if I got it, think it'd be throwing one for the top.

The nose direct would be an effort as well, there are some decent pockets and stuff but getting over would be hard...

a dense loner

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Big hands for the broad pinch are useful


but jamie hasn't got big hands has he :shock:

Bonjoy

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tommytwotone

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bump

so, kind of assuming that these are new then?

never even had the possibility of having put up a new prob - what do I do, submit my application form in triplicate at the next BMC meeting?  :wink:

will think of some names and ting.

bondosan

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never even had the possibility of having put up a new prob - what do I do, submit my application form in triplicate at the next BMC meeting?


i was wondering as well how new problems were compiled. i cleaned up a new one (i think judging by the amount of moss removed) at rowter the other day. its not that hard but nice nonetheless.

Bonjoy

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Posting on here is as good a way as any at the mo. Or pm/email Panton if it's magazine worthy. There used to be a new prob submission form thing on here but it has been down for a while now.

bondosan

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not really magazine worthy but a new prb submission form would be good. what happened to it ?

 

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