[clm]

An amazing event took place today as Local Knowledge was downgraded by a man with common sense, fat fingers and some eyes.  a local wad nipped in for the first second second first ascent.  the problem has been down graded from a ridiculous 6c with a whack sequence to an amenable 6a and reneamed by the man who did not climb it first as Common Knowledge.
There are now two problems up this stunning piece of rock and a topo of all the eliminates on this arete will soon be available.
Cliff Richard was heard to quote "thats the most amazing thing i have seen since i was in the Monkees".
The direct on the arete is still unclimbed but a man who climbs at wimberry sometimes has already come up with a name and a grade.

[Jim]

I haven't got any common sense!
weather s'possed to improve tuesday so will prop go back some time this week (and actually climb something for a change)

[a dense loner]

it brought a tear to my eye

[r-man]

Oh dear. I think I just read what I thought you wrote just before I read it, but I can't be sure because I may have read it before, but this time I think I thought I just read it a little better.

So you reckon it's 6a now? I haven't tried it yet, but that's kind of disappointing. As easy as Boopers or the Nexus dyno? The mysterious Paul R also thought it was 6c, but perhaps he was using the same whack sequence.

I'm going to post the picture again, just cos it does look cool:



And from my confused sources I suspect there are actually 4 lines on this block so far - the arete on the left (6c, Ryan Pasquil), the E5 6c route Rodin's Requiem up the left edge of the pale streak, the VS 5c/V2 route The Square straight up the centre, and your favourite 6c/6a line Local Knowledge/Common Knowledge/Paul R's Knowledge. Not to mention the as yet unclimbed direct. Real 6c maybe? Proper lancashire 6c?  :wink:  

[clm]

jims knowledge
jugs, crimp, crimp, feet up, pinch...oh im at the top.  well that was easy.  i feel a bit silly now. oh look its raining....at least dense will have a good excuse.

[Jim]

don't forget to spit on your fingers!

[Control freak]

And how long did you spend trying this line again? I dont know.... Best hope Dense doen't flash it. You'll never live it down

[clm]

im not worried. he felt the starting crimp so any claims he made will be bogus. anyway, the quarry was that green it will probably have evolved feet and buggered off by the time we go back.
now shut the fuck up and get back to sunbathing.

[a dense loner]

no wonder you begged me to feel the crimp

[andy_e]

i dont see how it can be so hard- theres f***ing holds!

[r-man]

theres f***ing holds!

Are they a bit like love handles?

[andy_e]

theres f***ing holds!

Are they a bit like love handles?

do you make love to the rock? lol

[squeek]

Which quarry is the block in?  Wilton 2 on the right as you walk in?  We're thinking of going to Brownstones so could pop in on the way back.

[andy_e]

wilton 3-- the one furthest north. up on the right, just aftetr going in.

[r-man]

theres f***ing holds!

Are they a bit like love handles?

do you make love to the rock? lol

Pun on the word f***íng. Holds to f**k with. Think I'd best make that clear, as I don't want people thinking I'm a boulder humper. Not after all that therapy. What's wrong with my manteling technique anyway? Sometimes it takes a lot of - ahem - adjustment to get the body in the right position. Those white marks are chalk, honest.

[andy_e]

 I don't want people thinking I'm a boulder humper. Not after all that therapy.  Those white marks are chalk, honest.

good, cos jiz on the holds would just make it impossible

[clm]

you put the jiz on your hands, not the rock...duh.

[andy_e]

after tinkling around on said arete i dont see how it could be 6c, although i havent done it yet.

[Jim]

thats what I said

[a dense loner]

the crux definately is the last move, the other holds are good. clm just used a bizarre sequence. fuckin punter

[Jim]

that should read

clm just used the most bizarre sequence ever witnessed by anybody ever

[andy_e]

what do you do? i guess once you hit the crimp, you rock over on the starting handhold, swing your body round and use the sidepull, slap the top?

[r-man]

Someone's knowledge...



I didn't try it, but it seems obvious to me what you did wrong Andi. You should have used the toothbrush on the bottom holds and climbed the top part. You just did it the wrong way round. Talk about whack sequences.

Hey Clm, you ever tried traversing into it from a start in the cave on the left? Looked like there might be a couple of nice moves in it.

[Jim]

knowledge:
get the sharpest crimp in the world with RH, then crimp/sidepull out left with LH, LF up then RF on foothold just above it then LF on big foothold high up. start standing up and slap arete with RH as doing so till fully stood up. bobs your uncle

[squeek]

what's the grade in V or Font?  Or is it now down to english 6b, say E1 6b, or did you find more protection too, HVS 6b?  

[Jim]

english 6a acording to the 1st, 2nd accentionist

[andy_e]

I think the square (the 5c next to it) is more like HVS, iyt has no protection! Lol, stupid trad grades.

[clm]

why are those holds chalked if you didnt climb it?? :roll:

[Jim]

please don't give boulder problems route grades. thank you

[andy_e]

I chalked it in case i did it! i don't lnow how the square ever got a route grade, it's perfect bouldering!

[andy_e]

What's This?

(80) Rodin`s Requiem

Height: 6m - Grade: E5 6c First Ascent: -1984
Rating: Zero Stars
Start just left of The Square, at an overhang. Surmount the overhang with the utmost concentration then tackle the wall above.

[r-man]

What's This?

Honestly. Do you ever read threads from the beginning?  :roll:

the E5 6c route Rodin's Requiem up the left edge of the pale streak

[andy_e]

Sorry sir. Hey, there's a load of random geography teachers over there!

...traversing in...

you are obsessed with that sitstart under the roof. hey! on the block in Wilton two with the roff, the name's Rooves of Uncertainty

[clm]

for you locals, went back to the chimney butress at wilton one to get back on that traverse and found a class problem.
the first 10 feet of soot monkey E6 6c is a qwalitee 6b/c problem.  get to it.
then look up and wonder if this is possibly the most imrobable e6 in the world.  any one know of any repeats??

[r-man]

for you locals, went back to the chimney butress at wilton one to get back on that traverse and found a class problem.
the first 10 feet of soot monkey E6 6c is a qwalitee 6b/c problem. get to it.
then look up and wonder if this is possibly the most imrobable e6 in the world. any one know of any repeats??

Yeah, Jordan was telling me that there were quite a few good problems there. He said the start to Hackers is especially good. I'm itching to get on so many things as soon as I stop being injured. Over six months now, it's ridiculous.  :x

You ever checked out Wilton 4? Looked like there might be a few good highballs. If you're looking for a new route that Paul R hasn't yet said he's climbed  :wink: , there are a couple of desperate faces that don't have any recorded routes on - one going straight up through an overlap (right of Haig) and another to the right of that. I can't see any proper holds on em, but maybe with a closer inspection...

[Graeme]

I stop being injured. Over six months now, it's ridiculous.  

Have you been to see a doctor, maybe you need surgery?

[r-man]

Have you been to see a doctor, maybe you need surgery?

Can surgery fix tendon problems? No I haven't seen a doctor - I'm giving it to the end of May, it has been getting very gradually better but I've not managed to properly rest - I keep climbing just a little bit. Also I think playing guitar aggravates it. Oh well.

[andy_e]

wilton 4, that wall with the overlap isn't in the brick, the crack to the left is 6b, and to the right is 5c.

[JR]

wilton "ming hole" 4 hey.....

almost up there with stanworth....

[r-man]

wilton "ming hole" 4 hey.....

almost up there with stanworth....

That's what I thought, but since having a look last weekend I reckon there could be a few good problems. And there are less industrial rubbish tips than Stanworth. Always a plus.

[JR]

well i was the other way round....

thought, "i guess it cant be that bad"

When i got there, sacked it off in favour of 1,2 and 3

[andy_e]

what's the ryan pasqwad problem on the left arete of the square?

[r-man]

Dunno. All I've heard is:

The left arete is 6c above the big drop, Ryan Paquill has done sit start to it, to make it a bit harder.

[r-man]

Finally got round to giving this a go on the weekend. Clm, you're right, it's 6a, no harder. It's that sidepull out left that makes it easy, and also brings you round onto the face. Direct up the arete would certainly be a lot harder.

Here's a clip of me doing it for the paparazzi:

http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/common%20knowledge.mpg

And a pic of Andi_e having a go:



Up the right hand side would be hard too. I had a look and thought it might just be possible, though I could be imagining things.

[a dense loner]

the right hand side will go, just needs a good clean n no taste

[Control freak]

Finally got round to giving this a go on the weekend. Clm, you're right, it's 6a, no harder. It's that sidepull out left that makes it easy, and also brings you round onto the face. Direct up the arete would certainly be a lot harder.

I just had a look the website - Local Knowledge V3? Are you on drugs? Ive done plenty of V3s in my time and this is at the Vindaloo end of spicy if you want to start throwing numbers like that around. I dunno...

[r-man]

Not quite a phaal though.

I dunno, I haven't been climbing properly for a while, so my feel for grades could be a bit off, but it felt reasonable for V3/6a. Maybe I'm wrong. But are you using the sidepull out left? ( did you do it differently to this?)

[a dense loner]

it's not V3, it's certainly harder, maybe V5. whenever you or andi post a link to a picture on your site i get the picture name in red then it takes me straight to your homepage, not a picture. but if you're on about the big sidepull, this wasn't used, can you reach it? a small but positive vertical crimp is used, it's about a foot from the sidepull

[Jim]

agreed with dense. If you use the massive side pull way off left you won't be on the arete any more. use the small crimp sidepull a foot in from this. gaining this alone is a 6a move and getting feet up is low end 6b. V3 this prob certainly ain't, prob font 6c+

[r-man]

Hmmm, V5? Well, like I say, I'm just getting back into climbing, so I dunno about grades, but I'm happy if everyone thinks it's V5.  :wink:

And yes, I used the small sidepull - I couldn't reach the big un. My sequence was

1. get the very sharp crimp that Andi_e is holding with right hand
2.Get both feet up.
3.Get small sidepull with left
4.Get small sidepull high up with right
5.Stand up, grab top.

-Anyway, I've put a link to the video just below the pic on the homepage, cos it didn't seem to load from ukb.

[andy_e]

surely its only V2...

if your having problems with clicking links from here it's because of the adverts we have to endure because we have some free webspace, it uses frames and so it can't open up the right page in the target frame which is a bummer. now, once i've made it sexy, we might get a sponsorship deal, get more web space and turn it into a .co.uk...

please...

someone...

anyone...