[clm]

An amazing event took place today as Local Knowledge was downgraded by a man with common sense, fat fingers and some eyes.  a local wad nipped in for the first second second first ascent.  the problem has been down graded from a ridiculous 6c with a whack sequence to an amenable 6a and reneamed by the man who did not climb it first as Common Knowledge.
There are now two problems up this stunning piece of rock and a topo of all the eliminates on this arete will soon be available.
Cliff Richard was heard to quote "thats the most amazing thing i have seen since i was in the Monkees".
The direct on the arete is still unclimbed but a man who climbs at wimberry sometimes has already come up with a name and a grade.

[Jim]

I haven't got any common sense!
weather s'possed to improve tuesday so will prop go back some time this week (and actually climb something for a change)

[a dense loner]

it brought a tear to my eye

[r-man]

Oh dear. I think I just read what I thought you wrote just before I read it, but I can't be sure because I may have read it before, but this time I think I thought I just read it a little better.

So you reckon it's 6a now? I haven't tried it yet, but that's kind of disappointing. As easy as Boopers or the Nexus dyno? The mysterious Paul R also thought it was 6c, but perhaps he was using the same whack sequence.

I'm going to post the picture again, just cos it does look cool:



And from my confused sources I suspect there are actually 4 lines on this block so far - the arete on the left (6c, Ryan Pasquil), the E5 6c route Rodin's Requiem up the left edge of the pale streak, the VS 5c/V2 route The Square straight up the centre, and your favourite 6c/6a line Local Knowledge/Common Knowledge/Paul R's Knowledge. Not to mention the as yet unclimbed direct. Real 6c maybe? Proper lancashire 6c?  :wink:  

[clm]

jims knowledge
jugs, crimp, crimp, feet up, pinch...oh im at the top.  well that was easy.  i feel a bit silly now. oh look its raining....at least dense will have a good excuse.

[Jim]

don't forget to spit on your fingers!

[Control freak]

And how long did you spend trying this line again? I dont know.... Best hope Dense doen't flash it. You'll never live it down

[clm]

im not worried. he felt the starting crimp so any claims he made will be bogus. anyway, the quarry was that green it will probably have evolved feet and buggered off by the time we go back.
now shut the fuck up and get back to sunbathing.

[a dense loner]

no wonder you begged me to feel the crimp

[andy_e]

i dont see how it can be so hard- theres f***ing holds!

[r-man]

theres f***ing holds!

Are they a bit like love handles?

[andy_e]

theres f***ing holds!

Are they a bit like love handles?

do you make love to the rock? lol

[squeek]

Which quarry is the block in?  Wilton 2 on the right as you walk in?  We're thinking of going to Brownstones so could pop in on the way back.

[andy_e]

wilton 3-- the one furthest north. up on the right, just aftetr going in.

[r-man]

theres f***ing holds!

Are they a bit like love handles?

do you make love to the rock? lol

Pun on the word f***íng. Holds to f**k with. Think I'd best make that clear, as I don't want people thinking I'm a boulder humper. Not after all that therapy. What's wrong with my manteling technique anyway? Sometimes it takes a lot of - ahem - adjustment to get the body in the right position. Those white marks are chalk, honest.

[andy_e]

 I don't want people thinking I'm a boulder humper. Not after all that therapy.  Those white marks are chalk, honest.

good, cos jiz on the holds would just make it impossible

[clm]

you put the jiz on your hands, not the rock...duh.

[andy_e]

after tinkling around on said arete i dont see how it could be 6c, although i havent done it yet.

[Jim]

thats what I said

[a dense loner]

the crux definately is the last move, the other holds are good. clm just used a bizarre sequence. fuckin punter

[Jim]

that should read

clm just used the most bizarre sequence ever witnessed by anybody ever

[andy_e]

what do you do? i guess once you hit the crimp, you rock over on the starting handhold, swing your body round and use the sidepull, slap the top?

[r-man]

Someone's knowledge...



I didn't try it, but it seems obvious to me what you did wrong Andi. You should have used the toothbrush on the bottom holds and climbed the top part. You just did it the wrong way round. Talk about whack sequences.

Hey Clm, you ever tried traversing into it from a start in the cave on the left? Looked like there might be a couple of nice moves in it.

[Jim]

knowledge:
get the sharpest crimp in the world with RH, then crimp/sidepull out left with LH, LF up then RF on foothold just above it then LF on big foothold high up. start standing up and slap arete with RH as doing so till fully stood up. bobs your uncle

[squeek]

what's the grade in V or Font?  Or is it now down to english 6b, say E1 6b, or did you find more protection too, HVS 6b?