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Rubicon conditions reports (Read 330478 times)

dave

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Rubicon conditions reports
April 14, 2005, 02:40:27 pm
When you've been to this crag, just post saying when you were there and what condition it is in, i.e. whats wet, whats dry etc.

It really is as simple as that. lets keep it on topic, just notes about nick, chit-chat in other threads, cheers.

Word.

dave

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#1 Rubicon conditions reports
April 14, 2005, 02:41:03 pm
Sticky please bubba. Cheers

dobbin

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#2 Rubicon conditions reports
May 12, 2005, 12:06:46 pm
well, this thread aint gettin no love. Remember years ago I posted in this forum that a jug had fallen off at Rubber con and noone cared then either.

I shall spearhead a one man rubicon revival.

conditions on Saturday, good on the rocks. Rubicon roof is dry, Zeke and the bastard are wet (or have wet streaks), sissy looks horible but dry, kudos wall is all mint, dangerous bros and tribes are mint, caviar is fcuked and thats your lot.

Very wet and marshy underfoot however.

Bonjoy

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#3 Rubicon conditions reports
May 12, 2005, 12:25:08 pm
Any idea how hard Tribes is thought to be these days, since the hold breakage?

dobbin

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#4 Rubicon conditions reports
May 13, 2005, 11:00:12 am
I thought 8a but I have long arms. Where you used to rock back right to a shattered flakey thing you now have to pop to the flatty above, as you've now got this with the right rather than the left you get to hold a single finger crimp with the left whilst the right bobs off the flatty to a sidepull, then you can get the left on the flatty (as god intended), then its the same to the top. If you were a midget it would be impossible.

Went last night and the underfoot wetness has really dried  up a lot this week. Patches of wetness on the undercut on Zeke and The Bastard's still sopping.

Zeke is quite hard by the way.

Bonjoy

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#5 Rubicon conditions reports
May 13, 2005, 11:13:30 am
How wet is Caviar?

dobbin

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#6 Rubicon conditions reports
May 13, 2005, 11:50:30 am
Prolly about a week before its climbable mate. Streaks of wetness around the starting footholds then the round the gaston is a bit mingus.

Andy Harris

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#7 rubicon condits Sat 14th May
May 16, 2005, 11:22:55 am
On Saturday 14th May Rubicon was mostly dry. Only routes / bouldering not doable were Caviar (v.close to being dry) and Bastard (always wet at bottom).   Remarkably good grip in the sun but sharp as ever. Andy

dobbin

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#8 Rubicon conditions reports
May 20, 2005, 10:36:08 am
Report from last night : main cove flooring drying out, still a puddle under the roof. Undercuts at bottom of Zeke hard section still wet, bastard still wet - sissy dry. Over to Kudos and its all fine - humid last night though and felt a bit shit. Dangerous brothers and tribes are fine, starting moves on caviar are sopping - too wet to be dried with a towel too. Round the corner to Salar (marvellous route) and thats all mint.

dave

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#9 Rubicon conditions reports
May 22, 2005, 11:10:46 am
yesterday, ditto as per above. not as humid though.

dobbin

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#10 Rubicon conditions reports
May 23, 2005, 08:35:55 am
Hooray! a Rubicon renaissance! Yesterday there were loads of bods out. From Rob Smith and the Harris to Mark Shazam, picking up Si Moore and our very own Doylio (effort on Salar lads) on the way. Inspite of fairly heavy rain in the afternoon everything is pretty much dry. Nearly - thanks to towel action on the sidepulls on Caviar thats almost ok but still has streaks. Predictably the Bastard is still wet before the bulge, but then, its not august is it?
Kudos wall in direct sunlight a bit greasy but otherwise all in good nic.

Doylo

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#11 Rubicon conditions reports
May 23, 2005, 08:05:52 pm
there was some seroius sticky damp conditions going on at the tor afterwards, you missed out there dobbin!

dave

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#12 Rubicon conditions reports
May 23, 2005, 10:52:26 pm
really good nick tonite bouldering wise. caviar even might be drying up a bit but don't quote me on that. also was a rare sight of no-one on salar!

Johnny Brown

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#13 Rubicon conditions reports
May 30, 2005, 01:24:55 pm
was at chee tor yesterday, the cornice looked remarkably dry. Thought it might be of interest to the clip-and-dangle brigade that read this thread

dave

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#14 Rubicon conditions reports
June 18, 2005, 02:23:25 pm
lotta condensation today.

Bonjoy

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#15 Rubicon conditions reports
June 18, 2005, 05:13:32 pm
Caviar and Salar were dry enough to do. Did Salar, it must be the ultimate easy 8a for boulderers, easy moves to a rest then a five move 7a+ish boulder prob, easy money!

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#16 Rubicon conditions reports
June 21, 2005, 04:20:05 pm
All good today.

Bonjoy

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#17 Rubicon conditions reports
June 21, 2005, 04:23:25 pm
Sweet, hopefully my trip to the WCJ cornice tonight won't be a wasted journey then.

Doylo

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#18 Rubicon conditions reports
June 22, 2005, 10:53:48 am
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Caviar and Salar were dry enough to do. Did Salar, it must be the ultimate easy 8a for boulderers, easy moves to a rest then a five move 7a+ish boulder prob, easy money!


Yeah defo, i'd go as far as to say its not 8a, although to be fair i can imagine its a bit harder for shorties

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#19 Rubicon conditions reports
June 22, 2005, 11:30:24 am
True, i've done harder 7c+s. Strangley it was given 8a+ by first ascentionist Malc Taylor, mind you he also gave Rattle and Hump 8a+ :roll: . I'd say Salar would be a 7a+ boulder prob and the nearby bouldery route Caviar would be solid 7c, should make more than a plus diffrence on the sport grade! It's funny with these boulder prob sport routes though, the stamina plodders struggle with them and swear they're hard 8a.
 BTW little (grinning) Rob did Salar in quick time, so shorties have no excuse.

dave

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#20 Rubicon conditions reports
June 22, 2005, 11:38:30 am
could be summert to do with big slap/dyno moves are just more in fashion these days. think just about every dyno in the country first went up at a way higher grade than they are today - this example is even more so cos the move is on a route, so to ploddy sportclimbers its going to look well unlikley but through a boulderers eyes it don't look too bad.

P.S. lovejoy how did K-note get on with it t'other day?

Doylo

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#21 Rubicon conditions reports
June 22, 2005, 12:18:18 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
True, i've done harder 7c+s. Strangley it was given 8a+ by first ascentionist Malc Taylor, mind you he also gave Rattle and Hump 8a+ :roll: . I'd say Salar would be a 7a+ boulder prob and the nearby bouldery route Caviar would be solid 7c, should make more than a plus diffrence on the sport grade! It's funny with these boulder prob sport routes though, the stamina plodders struggle with them and swear they're hard 8a.
 BTW little (grinning) Rob did Salar in quick time, so shorties have no excuse.


Aye but Malc Taylor didn't use the strange pinch grippy hold out left for some reason. He climbed it direct using a shitty slopey crimp thing. A different proposition altogether. It felt a grade easier than the sissy and dangerous brothers to me.

Bonjoy

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#22 Rubicon conditions reports
June 22, 2005, 12:18:55 pm
He nearly got it on first red point, sticking the sloper for half a second, no joy on subsequent attempts. He was back on it last night.
 Cornice was in fine condition BTW.

dave

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#23 Rubicon conditions reports
June 22, 2005, 01:36:42 pm
Quote from: "Doylo"
Malc Taylor didn't use the strange pinch grippy hold out left for some reason. He climbed it direct using a shitty slopey crimp thing


whadda mistaika to maika


Bonjoy

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#24 Rubicon conditions reports
June 22, 2005, 02:10:43 pm
Quote from: "Doylo"
Malc Taylor didn't use the strange pinch grippy hold out left for some reason. He climbed it direct using a shitty slopey crimp thing

 Apparently McClure did it static by undercutting the pocket (the one you dyno off with RH)!

 

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