[Bonjoy]

 If i'd had a working phone I probably would have joined you there.
 Aye, holding the swing is the meat of the prob doing it the original way. Nice to hear you repeated it this way, even if it's a daft sequence.
 Did you go over and try Moo Cow (direct start to Gecko Blaster)? Class moves.

[Houdini]

Bouling?  Heard this lots lately, what does it mean?

[Johnny Brown]

From the left hand hold under the roof, your right hand slaps to the lip left of the arete.  It's a scary move.  But only 6c.

That left hand 'hold' under the roof was too small for me to make any use of with my feet on the back, what it would have been like with my right foot over my shoulder I can't imagine.

it's a daft sequence.
 Did you go over and try Moo Cow

Hmm, would like to think between us we'd have figured out something other than a daft sequence. But then none of us is Nige.
I didn't get on moo cow, I was too busy sieging the swing. Emma and kanye may well have done it.

Bouling?

Kind of like an overhead throw, usually to a guppy.

[Houdini]

A thrutch / throw hybrid?

[cofe]

Aye, holding the swing is the meat of the prob doing it the original way. Nice to hear you repeated it this way, even if it's a daft sequence.

it wasn't done holding the swing like this word. this was hard and proper skin destroyer scene. j-bizzle had RH on as above and was jumping w/feet on the back to catch the sloping mini-ramp a foot above the lip with his LH. he did a 720 at one point before falling off. crazy.

[slackline]

Bouling?  Heard this lots lately, what does it mean?

'Tis a game played by (old) French men with now't better to do.

[Somebody's Fool]

'Nige's beta' involves putting your right heel next to where Jon's right hand is when your left hand is still in the roof.  Then slapping with your right to where his left hand is.  Then matching etc etc

[dave]

I think when I started trying this i was going for Nige's beta but wasn't flexed up enough at that point to do it. then I found the 7a+ beta, which incidentally I don't think is impossible for under 6'ers, its just that no-one there on satdy gave it more than a couple of halfassed goes, since rightly the other senquence is a nicer problem. I wasn't at anywhere near me full stretch one go i overshot it by about 6".

Real shame about the ledge though on this spoils it for me. would be much better to engineer a problem that finished up the other side of the arete - since the jug ledge is out it would also make sense to me to eliminate the crack too. this combined with the lip traverse in would be monster.

[Bonjoy]

... the 7a+ beta...

What is this?

Real shame about the ledge though on this spoils it for me. would be much better to engineer a problem that finished up the other side of the arete - since the jug ledge is out it would also make sense to me to eliminate the crack too. this combined with the lip traverse in would be monster.

I think avoiding the ledge is the least contrived possible way to climb the feature. If you include the ledge then it becomes a total none problem, blending into the easy groove prob on the right. However I felt that adding further exclusion rules only serves to make the problem more of an eliminate. Also, using the crack means you climb over the flat landing. I suspect falls from the arete sans crack might involve overshooting the flat area onto the rocky slope below. To be honest the ledge rule didn't seem contrived with the sequence I used on the top bit (which seems to be the way other folk do the top also), I guess your sequence didn't work so naturally with 'the rule'. That said the arete sans crack sounds worth a play, maybe as a sort of independant finish to Goose Canon.

[dave]

I was just dismayed to have what felt to me as the crux of the problem the top move with a jug 6" below my right hand, its not out of sight out of mind type thing. but yes you've got to have some kind of eliminate to have a problem there at all.

the beta i was using was get the 3-finger sidepull undercut in the roof with left hand, right hand on the lip sloper pinch (where your right is in john's photo), build feet up so left is pasted on the slab, right is on the flake and slap over to guppy the arete where that hold is. bearing in mind i'm shit at guppying this is fine to hold, bring a heel to the right lip to match and you're there. i couldn't do the top bit though, the matle thing felt bunched and awkard to me and all wrong. i tried slapping the top with left hand in an conventional style but the top is too wack to really hang.