[Bonjoy]

Have climbed a new prob at Shining cliff near Black rocks. Goosecreature is a 7c roof with an arete to finish. Here's a shot of the roof, cofe has got some quality pics of the climbing itself but his computer is bust so I'd imagine it'll be awhile before any get scanned in.

[ferret]

that looks fuckin cool

[dave]

i thought we'd agreed on no shit names?
:wink:

[Bonjoy]

Almost went for Bad/angry Fox or Headless Tiger. Even considered soomething hefty and stern like Purpose Maker but it seemed a bit pompous.

[Scouse D]

How about "I chopped keen bird's leg's off to make this roof look bigger"?
Catchy I know.

[dave]

How about "Headless Tiger, Angry Fox". I mean its at least approaching a pun.

[Johnny Brown]

You haven't photoshopped the tree out this time have you?

If not, it looks a class above your usual stuff  

[Bonjoy]

Cheeky fucker and i'll have you know i've never photoshopped a tree out in my life. Large kiwi and ozy spotters maybe but then they deserve digitally erasing.

[Johnny Brown]

is it easy to find? i'm keen....

[Bonjoy]

Aye, locate Shining cliff with Chatsworth guide, follow parking instructions as per the approach from the YHA carpark. Follow track from parking to main crag, roof is obvious on the left before crag is reached. The line of the problem is pretty obvious, the diagonal ledge on the warm-up groove prob to the right is out.
 Whilst in the area the direct boulderprob start to Gecko Blaster has not been done and there is a hard looking super-thin line up vague cracks on the first buttress met. There are also a range of good soloable routes on good rivelin style rock.

[clm]

hope you didnt avoid that exciting looking top out.

[Bonjoy]

Course I din't. The topout is nice but very easy, the line thru the upper roof further left is good fun at about VS 5b. The upper roof does a good job of keeping the prob dry in the rain, in fact it was raining when I did the FA.

[David S]

You mean you've never been JB? Words fail me. Still it's a long way from the plantation

[Bonjoy]

Went back here yesterday in search of dryness. Goosecreature nearly saw a second and third ascent, with Nige finding a good looking easier sequence on the roof avoiding the cutloose by throwing a right heel up early then crossing to the lip and doing a heart-in-mouth match. Probably 7b+ rather than 7c with this sequence. But sadly the knee drag slap at the top stopped both repeaters from bagging the elusive fowl.
 Added a new problem to the gooseroof, basically a lefthand start to GC traversing the lip rightwards from it narrowest point to finish as per the original. Goose Cannon is also 7b+.
 Also cleared up direct start to Gecko Blaster. Rumour had it that Tom De Gaye had done this some years back. This turned out not to be the case ( http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4994.0.html ). In the end it wasn't too hard, just technical and unobvious. Probably 7a+, with a brilliant sequence, finishing at the jug which GB traverses into from the right. I'm calling it Moo Cow, which is the name Uptowngirl was going to give Gecko Blaster before it was nabbed off him whilst he was recovering from a fall off the last hard move.
 Lastly we also found an easier sequence on Peaches and Crust. Soft 7a rather than 7a+ now.

[fashionguru]

Hi Jon,

Dont want to spoil anybodys day but it has already seen its 2nd & 3rd ascents with both myself and Mike Adams. Good prob only spoiled with been able to heel hook out right which makes it way easier.

Has the roof to the left been climbed yet. Mike came close but not quite.

Tony S

[Bonjoy]

 Why would that spoil my day? It's great to hear about it seeing some traffic! T'ledge does spoil the aesthetic a little, but it's a total none problem if you do use it, as you can span straight to it, then reach jug in groove from it, font 6a maybe? I wondered who's chalk it was. Can you remember what sequence you used?
 The roof to the left going straight up via the super thin crack is unclimbed.

[fashionguru]

Hi Again Jon,

I used two different methods the first using the big ledge as a heel hook but sticking with your problem for hands and turning the arete into a press with my left hand to gain the height to lunge to the top.(V7ish may be V8)
The other method sounds petty simillar to what you have just said your friends used by putting a foot (not heel) around the right of the roof to stop the swing.
Mike being Mike just used his legendery strenght to hold and campus through the swing.

Great problem which ever way you do it.

All these problems I see when walking my dogs and never go back to untill someone else does them its a shame for me but great for bouldering.

[monkey boy]

For those of us with no chatsworth guide is it easy to find? How do you get there, directions and parking etc?

Cheers

By the way i am the only one who cant see the picture?

[Bonjoy]

It's not too hard to find. Follow the A6 south through Matlock, Cromford, Whatstandwell until you get to Ambergate. Turn right at a Chapel just before a garage. Follow this road over a bridge, up a winding hill and westward for about a mile. Eventually you will see a gated track on the right with a brown Youth Hostel sign. Follow the rough track for a few hundred metres to a parking area. Follow the righthand/eastward branch of the track. The Gooseroof is the first significant rock you will come across on your left. There are more buttress further down the track. Let me know how you get on.

[Bonjoy]

 That picture link is dead, i'll try and find a replacement pic (unfortunately I think they are all on my home PC).

[monkey boy]

Cool thanks for the knowledge will go and have a look in holidays when i am back from leeds! Will let you know how it goes.
David

[Bonjoy]

Here's some pics of the Gooseroof:



Goose Cannon traverses the lip right then up the arete.



Looking at t'other side of the arete. Goose creature gains the aret direct through the roof. The sickle ledge on the right is not used for hands or feet.

[uptown]

I'm calling it Moo Cow, which is the name Uptowngirl was going to give Gecko Blaster before it was nabbed off him whilst he was recovering from a fall off the last hard move.

Thanks Jon, respect for the respect! Gecko Blaster was always such a shit name for a great line and moves - far too much Turnbullism. Those were cut-throat days...

[Johnny Brown]

Word, we ended up here yesterday, quite enjoyable it was n'all.

Dave 'Shaq' Parry found an easier sequence by bouling again with right from under roof. Much easier but impossible for sub six footers. The rest of us destroyed ourselves trying to control the vicious swing after bopping to the lip, in the end going all the way to the diagonal sloper. Rather blind.

with Nige finding a good looking easier sequence on the roof avoiding the cutloose by throwing a right heel up early then crossing to the lip and doing a heart-in-mouth match. Probably 7b+ rather than 7c with this sequence.

Amazing! Which heel? Can't imagine it.

But sadly the knee drag slap at the top stopped both repeaters from bagging the elusive fowl.

You don't need to slap if you get the weight on the palm right. For me all the moves felt 7a+/7b apart from taming the swing, which felt about 7c+, and took all I had. Only the prospect of going home empty handed and bloody fingered provided the psyche in the end. Conditions weren't great mind.

Goose Cannon V9 (6c)
From the start of Foie Gras blast right along the lip to join and finish up Goose Creature

Wish I'd known about this, would have been nice to try a different move at some point.

Can I just say, I thought we'd established V9 is generally 7a unless a stamina plod. The move I did yesterday was certainly 7a. If the BMC guides are to use Uk tech grades, then we should do so sensibly rather than promulgate the school scale.

[Somebody's Fool]

From memory, there's a left foot hold which enables the right heel to go up. From the left hand hold under the roof, your right hand slaps to the lip left of the arete.  It's a scary move.  But only 6c.  Then a quick match and up the palm weirdness (or off in our case).  The swing is desperate.  And not necessary.  Even for a midget like you.

[Bonjoy]

 If i'd had a working phone I probably would have joined you there.
 Aye, holding the swing is the meat of the prob doing it the original way. Nice to hear you repeated it this way, even if it's a daft sequence.
 Did you go over and try Moo Cow (direct start to Gecko Blaster)? Class moves.

[Houdini]

Bouling?  Heard this lots lately, what does it mean?

[Johnny Brown]

From the left hand hold under the roof, your right hand slaps to the lip left of the arete.  It's a scary move.  But only 6c.

That left hand 'hold' under the roof was too small for me to make any use of with my feet on the back, what it would have been like with my right foot over my shoulder I can't imagine.

it's a daft sequence.
 Did you go over and try Moo Cow

Hmm, would like to think between us we'd have figured out something other than a daft sequence. But then none of us is Nige.
I didn't get on moo cow, I was too busy sieging the swing. Emma and kanye may well have done it.

Bouling?

Kind of like an overhead throw, usually to a guppy.

[Houdini]

A thrutch / throw hybrid?

[cofe]

Aye, holding the swing is the meat of the prob doing it the original way. Nice to hear you repeated it this way, even if it's a daft sequence.

it wasn't done holding the swing like this word. this was hard and proper skin destroyer scene. j-bizzle had RH on as above and was jumping w/feet on the back to catch the sloping mini-ramp a foot above the lip with his LH. he did a 720 at one point before falling off. crazy.

[slackline]

Bouling?  Heard this lots lately, what does it mean?

'Tis a game played by (old) French men with now't better to do.

[Somebody's Fool]

'Nige's beta' involves putting your right heel next to where Jon's right hand is when your left hand is still in the roof.  Then slapping with your right to where his left hand is.  Then matching etc etc

[dave]

I think when I started trying this i was going for Nige's beta but wasn't flexed up enough at that point to do it. then I found the 7a+ beta, which incidentally I don't think is impossible for under 6'ers, its just that no-one there on satdy gave it more than a couple of halfassed goes, since rightly the other senquence is a nicer problem. I wasn't at anywhere near me full stretch one go i overshot it by about 6".

Real shame about the ledge though on this spoils it for me. would be much better to engineer a problem that finished up the other side of the arete - since the jug ledge is out it would also make sense to me to eliminate the crack too. this combined with the lip traverse in would be monster.

[Bonjoy]

... the 7a+ beta...

What is this?

Real shame about the ledge though on this spoils it for me. would be much better to engineer a problem that finished up the other side of the arete - since the jug ledge is out it would also make sense to me to eliminate the crack too. this combined with the lip traverse in would be monster.

I think avoiding the ledge is the least contrived possible way to climb the feature. If you include the ledge then it becomes a total none problem, blending into the easy groove prob on the right. However I felt that adding further exclusion rules only serves to make the problem more of an eliminate. Also, using the crack means you climb over the flat landing. I suspect falls from the arete sans crack might involve overshooting the flat area onto the rocky slope below. To be honest the ledge rule didn't seem contrived with the sequence I used on the top bit (which seems to be the way other folk do the top also), I guess your sequence didn't work so naturally with 'the rule'. That said the arete sans crack sounds worth a play, maybe as a sort of independant finish to Goose Canon.

[dave]

I was just dismayed to have what felt to me as the crux of the problem the top move with a jug 6" below my right hand, its not out of sight out of mind type thing. but yes you've got to have some kind of eliminate to have a problem there at all.

the beta i was using was get the 3-finger sidepull undercut in the roof with left hand, right hand on the lip sloper pinch (where your right is in john's photo), build feet up so left is pasted on the slab, right is on the flake and slap over to guppy the arete where that hold is. bearing in mind i'm shit at guppying this is fine to hold, bring a heel to the right lip to match and you're there. i couldn't do the top bit though, the matle thing felt bunched and awkard to me and all wrong. i tried slapping the top with left hand in an conventional style but the top is too wack to really hang.