[gritstoner]

Hi there,
am new to the area and want to go bouldering on sandstone this saturday. Was thinking about Bowles or High Rocks, but don't really know the quality/number of problems there. I kind of rely on trains to get there, so what's best this time of year that can be walked from Eridge or Tunbridge Wells station? Glad to hook up with anyone who feels like it this w/e. Cheers,

Rob

[Bubba]

Try sending a PM to Ian H - he's a local to the area but I've not seen him online for a little while.

[chappers]

was out yesterday. weather was mint. all rock at harrisons was dry.
not walked to bowls or owt from eridge. but harrisons is at the end of eridge. easy walk. - u been there? good little circut of probs on north boulder. some nice solos at the edge.
PM me if you are deffo going, i could meet ya possibly.

[ian h]

sent you an email , hope it is useful .

destination has to be high rocks for me though

if you do go to the north boulder though, borrow somebodys jingo guide and look up a problem called finger flow, for me this is the best problem on the boulder about font 7a+ is my guess .

[neil@canaryclimbs]

finger flow 7a but quality

just bacj from bowles in good condition a little sandy, will be at north boulder tomorow at about 3 if you are interested

[chappers]

what/where is finger flow? i dont have a guide, done most of the obvious lines on the boulder.

[ian h]

1 meter left of the ordinary 5c route which goes up the center of the main face

not to be confused with torque wrench which is slightly more left agaian.

[ian h]

: torque wrench involving ugly moves on finger locks

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Ian you around in the week my boy starts nursery tomorow so looking to get some action in now the rocks are almost in condition. Im looking for people to climb with on wed and thursdays during the day

[ian h]

Ian you around in the week my boy starts nursery tomorow so looking to get some action in now the rocks are almost in condition. Im looking for people to climb with on wed and thursdays during the day

well i work shifts so i dont have regular days, but am around fairly often midweek daytime

[chappers]

yeah, nice problem. did one just left of the three cracks up the face (5c original thing) that it??. didnt do that torque wrench thing u chat about, not into that kinda thing at all.
what grade does the main overhanging bit get, right (round the corner) from 5c original. right arete, sloper wit left, horrible top out.?? font 6bish?

[neil@canaryclimbs]

that problem if its the nose you talk about, can feel 7a or 6a depends on the day

[ian h]

a couple of high rocks pics

[neil@canaryclimbs]

what problem is that?

does it go from the sitter or standing looks good

[ian h]

it not named or graded yet , but feels around the 7b mark

[neil@canaryclimbs]

really nice one, i had a look at it the other week, i was going to come back to it. but been climbing at eridge alot and totally forgor about it, might get up there and try it this week.

What are the conditions down at high rocks like at the mo after all this shitty rain

[ian h]

pic of anew project on sandstone


hopefully get it done soon

[neil@canaryclimbs]

were is this?

you kep pulling them out of the bag, looks like another dyno (lol)

That thing at high rocks was fuking hard. took me ages. couldnt quite understand were to start from, is it a sitter?

[ian h]

cant tell you where the prob is as i not done it yet.


the problem at high rocks as far as i know has only been done from a stand up

[ian h]

also messing around today at high rocks me and my mate added a couple of easy problems to the circuit.

these are two aretes found up the slope in the bay laft of salad days

[ian h]

a couple of pics from today , also posted on the bouldering pictures thread

the infidel project


and magnetic

[neil@canaryclimbs]

hey man what grade you giving magnetic, flashed this morning then coudnt do it agian. also a little unsure were to start. so i sarted on hand very low from a srunched position.

Also started working the line to the right, dont know if anyone has done. up the upside down little pockets. I had to clean it, hould be a good problem once i bag it, hard last move to break

[ian h]

magnetic is a bit hight dependent the bang it out slap way is prob 6c if your tall enough. the rock up method for shorties is 7a+ maybe 7b

anyway 3 new problems

ian s has done :

direct start to judy (not the crack) but 1 meter right jumping up to two small crimps then campussing

and problem to the break between leglock and crossing the rubicon, finishing at the break

no grades or names for these yet

and i have climbed the wall just left of the gob starting in the passage to finish with a high and scary topout ,  quality line prob font 6c+ no name yet

picture of new problem left of the gob , repaeted by ian s

[ian h]

Also started working the line to the right, dont know if anyone has done. up the upside down little pockets. I had to clean it, hould be a good problem once i bag it, hard last move to break

me and ian saw the chalk on this today and assumed it was decoy chalk , as it  did not look climbed but as though just a bit had been dabbed on with a chalk ball .

what are you donig with your feet is the slab in ? :?

[neil@canaryclimbs]

i dabed chalk on it to dry it, the feet had dirt all over them, no feet on slab, pull on using undercut left, up to right hand, put right foot up and grab next pocket, thats as far as i got yeturday,