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Training - where to start (Read 15711 times)

nik at work

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#25 Training - where to start
March 12, 2003, 12:24:02 pm
Never tried.....
(and assuming you're not joking...)
Not sure it would be beneficial though, as the idea I use is to be landing on the smallest footholds you can with both feet. To do this you need to land accurately but also at the deadpoint. If you were dropping you would not be at the deadpoint, you'd be moving down fast, so you would have to use bigger footholds, which kind of defeats the object. I suppose it would still work co-ordination - might try it tonight and let you know if it works.
The hard thing to do is to set it up quite steep, then jump for high, small, slopy footholds - very difficult. I also 'walk' across it, or in circles on it which is good but boring as you don't get to jump and fall over...

dave

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#26 Training - where to start
March 12, 2003, 12:29:21 pm
I bet at school you were the bomb at hopscotch.

I maybe thought the dropdowns (+ back up) might give you reyt powerful calves, maybe usefull for dynos, or springing off your toes for holds.

nik at work

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#27 Training - where to start
March 12, 2003, 12:37:40 pm
French skipping was my thing, I also bizarrely held the school high jump record for my age group. Bizarre because I was the shortest person in my year!

See what you mean about calves of kings though..

Mike_H

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#28 Training - where to start
March 12, 2003, 02:28:27 pm
The board is a really interesting idea Nick - I'll give that some thought. What sort of bolt ons are you using - just the smallest available, any particular make?

I have been working on using my feet more at my local crag, trying to do a traverse on largish holds and I feel this has improved my balance somewhat.

However I will try and attempt a few more problems either sans hands or with just one and hopefully that will progress my footwork even more.

Mike_H

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#29 Training - where to start
March 12, 2003, 02:34:42 pm
Just as another idea to improve balance and that sort of thing - but how about slacklining?

I know it isn't going to improve my overall footwork or anything but its good for a laugh.

nik at work

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#30 Training - where to start
March 12, 2003, 02:51:00 pm
The lower tier at the roaches is good for no hands, one hand and one foot slab bouldering (and even no hands and only one foot). I use just a buch of diffent holds on my board, some resin ones and some homemadw wooden jobs, the common feature is they are all a bit slopy (or a lot in some cases) and quite smooth (no knobbly or sharp ones). There are even a few of the really tiny screw in ones, when you can jump onto them at the top of the board with it at about 80 degrees then you are a zen master.

Slacklining is ace fun and good for general balance, but it doesn't do much for footwork. Mind you when it comes to slabs you can never have too much balance and it is one of the best ways to waste a summers day. A slackline a barbeque and a few friends.

james

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#31 Training - where to start
March 14, 2003, 09:45:48 pm
Nick,
No realy easy way into CAD, you just need a load of free time.  I tried to learn the program a few years ago and sacked it off after about 2 days, its mindblowing.  I have got Auto CAD 2000 if you want a copy (worth about £5000 or some other rediculous price :? ).
On another subject, are you over the Roaches way on Sunday.  I might try and head over.  I want to get back on Ultimate Sculpture if you fancy having a crack.  My god, what an awesome route.  No words can do it justice.  It's just pure ..... well... er .... (see what I mean) :lol:
Have you got a mobile number?  Mine is 07833 508 296.  Give me a call if you want to meet up.
Cheers

James

nik at work

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#32 Training - where to start
March 17, 2003, 09:28:34 am
A-ha this will be the message you left me then. Sorry I missed you, finished early on friday and can't face computers once the weekend has started. I'll have to try and get on Sculpture some time though - like you say stunning line. Probably a bit warm on sunday though? It was tropical at the roaches (or that was my excuse anyway).

Mike_H

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#33 Training - where to start
March 17, 2003, 10:22:34 am
Well lads all this talk of pushing my grade and guess what its happened!

I went up to Widdop on Saturday, managed to tick Pickpockets Wall, Pickpockets Crack, Pool Traverse, Splashdown and a couple more 6a's on the back of Boozers slab!

Cheers for the encouragement, that is definately the best I have ever climbed.

nik at work

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#34 Training - where to start
March 17, 2003, 10:28:57 am
And thats just with reading about training, imagine what you'll be capable of when you actually doing training!!!

Mike_H

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#35 Training - where to start
March 17, 2003, 10:48:59 am
Exactly, I've done Pickpockets Crack before, but for some reason I've always struggled on it when I've gone back to it.

This time I pretty much just jumped on it and did it straight away, I felt so inspired I tried Pickpockets Wall for the first time and did that within 5 go's.

Whilst on a roll I thought I'd have a go at Splashdown, and got that on my last go. I was that shocked about doing that I did it again just to make sure  :wink:

Its amazing what a positive approach and a bit of footwork can do.  :lol:

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#36 Training - where to start
March 18, 2003, 10:21:18 am
Congratulations Mike  :D

Splashdown is solid 6a, and a classic problem - one of the best I've done in Yorkshire.

Amazing what a bit of positive thinking can do.....

Mike_H

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#37 Training - where to start
March 18, 2003, 10:52:38 am
Cheers that is good to hear.

Whilst I'm on a roll I'm planning on heading up to the Bridies this weekend to tick the two problems on Small Smart Wall, Big Bash, Rampart, that horrible 5c thing next to the Villan and Chink in the Armour to name a few.

Bubba

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#38 Training - where to start
March 18, 2003, 11:28:01 am
Pic of me on 'Smarter' - brilliant problem but I found it easier to use the obvious undercut as an edge as soon as you are level with it - see my left hand:


Mike_H

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#39 Training - where to start
March 18, 2003, 11:33:59 am
Interesting, I'll keep that bit of beta in mind when I get up there on Saturday.

 

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