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Rubicon First ascent?
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Buoux 8C
menacing presence
Posts: 222
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Rubicon First ascent?
March 24, 2005, 09:44:32 pm
Just wondering if anyone completed the rubicon Press low left/Kudos traverse/ Kudos link up, i know Matt Birch was close, has anyone done it since, if not i did it today, maybe hard 8a+ dont know really, but good climbing
anyone shed any light
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Doylo
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#1 Rubicon First ascent?
March 24, 2005, 10:56:41 pm
didn't birch start from the press low right? I heard he fell off the end. Too hard for you Dicky anyway!
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Buoux 8C
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#2 Rubicon First ascent?
March 25, 2005, 09:29:46 am
Press low right is a grade easier than the low left where i started from, so even if he did it from the low right it would be a first ascent if i did it from the low left, anyone?
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Ru
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#3 Rubicon First ascent?
March 25, 2005, 10:04:44 am
Don't think it's been done before Rich. Good effort.
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c.j.d.
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Great.
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#4 Rubicon First ascent?
March 25, 2005, 04:32:49 pm
Now I am confused! Good effort young man. People may beg to differ, but I do like that bit of wall - very tasty (and hard!).
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BenF
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#5 Rubicon First ascent?
March 26, 2005, 11:04:19 am
I have a feeling that Mick Adams did it a little while back, but can't be sure. I know Mick got a tad obsessed with Rubicon for a time and was rattling on about something that sounds like what's described above, was likely to be a first ascent and then he finally managed it early one morning before work or something equally silly.
I'll ask him anyway.
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Ru
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#6 Rubicon First ascent?
March 26, 2005, 04:46:18 pm
Mick recently did a problem starting as per Tsunami/Left Sit start Bigger Splash Direct, but finishing as per the pinch problem. Confusingly this isn't the same thing as the oft tried left sit start to the pinch problem, which starts in the same place, but instead gets the sidepull on bigger splash direct with the right hand, gets the pinch with the left, then goes again to the finishing jug on the pinch problem. The way the sit start to the pinch problem was being tried originally was without the sidepull on Bigger splash direct (i.e. match the pinch). Rich's problem starts as for the left sit start to the press then traverses left from the finishing jug of that problem into Kudos up which it finishes. I did a similar thing last year but starting up the right sit start to Bigger Splash Direct but this is loads easier. Matt Birch's problem was the same finish (up kudos) but starting up the right sit start to the Press - but he fell off and (to my knowledge) never did it.
Everyone got that? There will be a test next week.
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Buoux 8C
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#7 Rubicon First ascent?
March 26, 2005, 06:51:06 pm
Ru has got it right,
i think this is probably the hardest thing on rubicon wall now, i dont really know the grade but a minumin of 8a+, might turn out to be 8b, i dont know, but fairly hard climbing throughout and a very very good test of top end powr endurance,
A worthwhile link i i think, has press low left had many ascents ru?
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dave
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#8 Rubicon First ascent?
March 26, 2005, 07:09:59 pm
I was with you all the way up to "Confusingly...".
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Bonjoy
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Leafy gent
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#9 Rubicon First ascent?
March 26, 2005, 07:17:59 pm
Bon effort Rich.
Have you ever tried the line going from the end of Weedkiller trav left along the lip to finish on the last hold of Bens roof? It's all there but will require beast power, much body tension, pocket love and a splash of endurance. Right up your street i'd have thought.
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dave
Guest
#10 Rubicon First ascent?
March 26, 2005, 07:27:30 pm
or what would be much better would be doing staminaband into bens traverse, into reversing zippys traverse, into weedkiller traverse into chimes the route. Or alternativley finish up lovejoys concept problem into mutations. I recon that would fuck all over anything johnny foregner could bring to the table difficulty-wise. Go rich, go rich, get busy.
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Doylo
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#11 Rubicon First ascent?
March 27, 2005, 10:20:43 am
surely the obvious one to do is staminaband, bens traverse into sardine! That'd be awesome
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