[captainchalky]

Anyone know if there is any point in taking a bouldering mat on a trip to Pembroke, other than for sitting on in the evening.
Would rather do some bouldering than routes if its available nearby.

Cheers

[Bonjoy]

Nearest bouldering of any merit is on the Gower (not that near). Why anyone would want to go to one of the best trad areas in the world and then fanny about looking for esoteric limestone bouldering I don't know :roll:.

[captainchalky]

Fair comment, but aint my choice of venue and don't climb routes much any more so wanted to see if there was any bouldering about.
This is a bouldering forum after all

[Bonjoy]

Sorry cap'n, got a bit of Monday arvo tetchiness going on there.

[SA Chris]

Nearest bouldering of any merit is on the Gower (not that near). :roll:.

Not strictly true. There was an article in OTE a good few years back. There are some tor like outcrops up towards Fishguard that apparently have some excellent stuff on them. I have only ever Bouldered on Broadhaven beach in South Pembroke, I assume that's where you will be headed. I was there on business and had a couple of hours to spare and there were no waves to surf on, so amde the most of whats there. I don't recall really needing a apd as the landings were mostly sandy. There is a goos cave with some steep stuff and some traversing. Its on the far side of the beach and faces west, pleasant spot, but can get hot. I have heard of other things, but not sure where.

[captainchalky]

Cheers,
might check that out, will do some easy-ish routes as well, just because of the reputation of the place,..... I guess it would be rude not to.

Ta

[SA Chris]

Do routes, if you have the opportunity. Any routes, there are some fantastic ones at all grades.

[Bonjoy]

Had another look this week and there is actually a fair bit of scope if anyone is so inclined.
 Trevallen has got some huge boulders with generally flat landings on a non tidal platform, one has an awesome looking highball crack and slab, plus various good looking steep things. All in all it would make a great days bouldering infact. The main downside is that an ab in is required and the easiest (non terminally loose) way back up is E1, which would make for a hairy 'scramble' out, especially given that the last section of the route involves climbing up a smaller-than-average-mat-sized tube in the rock!!

[Bubba]

I've not been down to Trevallen in years but could you leave a rope in-situ and just jumar out?

Did you have a good week Bonjoy?

I must go do some trad bumbling down that way coz it's such an awesome place to climb....and I still really want to do Lucky Strike as I never did it when I used to go there regularly.

[Bonjoy]

The standard ab line would be unpleasant to jam up as it goes over muddy rock and then up a narrow, muddy, loose sided gully. Pad would have to be dragged up afterwards which would probably dislodge rocks from the sides of the gully.
 Pembroke was brilliant as ever, the weather held out till Wednesday then totally crapped out. Shit weather looked set to stay so we bailled out early and spent the weekend up in Yorkshire, which was also bo. Got a fair few classics bagged at both spots, so pretty chuffed really.
 You should get down there, Lucky Strike is as good as the hype and there are loads of juggy atmospheric easier routes to get you back into it.

[Paz]

To get out of Trevallen you can flick the ab rope over and shunt out up a pleasantly angled E2.  Go directly up the rope probably isn't too bad if you, you only have to jug up to about half way before srambling up the slabby mud.  That obvious slabby block does look mint doesn't it?  Maybe some another good steep stuff at the crag bottom right of Romany.  I'm impressed if you take a mat down there.  From memory some people with no real bouldering experience on quality stuff amused themselves for a day at the bottom of the `tubey bubbly' crag near Penally with decent routes described in the supplement.  Vertical/ Pillary /Big Cave stuff above a beach situation, similar mat retreival issues.  There's good DWS at Pembroke too which would be worth a look for the ropeless.  But if it's too cold for that you know want to go trad climbing.

[SA Chris]

I must go do some trad bumbling down that way coz it's such an awesome place to climb....and I still really want to do Lucky Strike as I never did it when I used to go there regularly.

I like Lucky Strike as it is not really a typical Pembroke route, more balancy and technical than most there. Second Pembroke route I ever led. Rock Idol was my first, couldn't believe what I was climbing.

There are lots of easier things to do, nice place to get climbing head back on.

[Bonjoy]

I might just stick a pad in the boot next time I go down there. The best thing about the Trevallen boulder was that they seemed to be bone dry on a day when all the routes where super greasy after heavy rain. Maybe a spot of bouldering could be just the thing on iffy weather days.

[SA Chris]

Check out Broadhaven too, as mentioned above. Nice spot and should dry quickly. I'm sure there's tons of other stuff if you know where to look. Found some good stuff in similar situations underneath the cliffs at Alladale (sp?) in County Clare.

Bit like stuff we saw at Reiff on the weekend. Some fantastic looking sandstone boulders on rock platforms just above HWM. untouched, and will probably remain so.