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Dreamtime (Read 13103 times)

Huffy

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#25 Dreamtime
March 23, 2005, 06:24:35 pm
Dreamtime: not an everyday history, by Moser
(badly translated by google...i particularly like the sentence about the pig :lol: )

We are a little later with the Dreamtime block and I are inspired. The grasps look good, the courses might be appropriate for me clearly and not know conditions to be better. Rather it is too cold on the shady side of the Boulder, where Dreamtime is. The many courses let the fingers at the cold stone cool down.
Now I should have however not for a long time my peace. Two Englishmen come along and want to try. I pull line and am content with a good feeling in the belly. After one hour the block is free and I can again in peace climb. There already come the next horde/hurdle, Finn or Sweden. That sits down on my mat, throws its two obendrauf and begins to try. I am not added, because they are too third and have already a queue. The Englishmen go past again, let me however in peace and want their attempts to start later. Englishmen have evenly style.
I rest myself well, rub my shoes cleanly, take magnesia, knead the fingers, take again magnesia and finally am I so far: I want to enter, now. I take the grasps into the hand, determine the feet and claw me so firmly I can to it. I do not make a course what is the matter??
I am above.
I can hardly believe it.
More luck and at the same time one can have pig at all. The hands tremble ten minutes long, both Elleboegen are like a hinge of a Tuere weighing tons and for over one hour have I lead in the arms. One is finished I!!! The Boulder is something special with the changed grasps, the line is a dream and the courses requires the entire Reportoir. However I cannot begin anything with the momentary official evaluation of 8b+.
It seems to me rather to 8Ã¥+/8b.

ned

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#26 Dreamtime
March 23, 2005, 07:32:40 pm
Quote
I pull line and am content with a good feeling in the belly

 :lol:

Duma

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#27 Dreamtime
March 23, 2005, 07:56:58 pm
:lol:  :lol:  :lol:

translation programs are genius!

petje

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#28 Dreamtime
March 24, 2005, 07:31:27 am
I don't know if someone is interrested, but pig comes probably from the german that means in a figure of speech: being lucky (schwein haben).
Also are his elbow (elleboegen) like big hinges on a door wieghing tons.

obendrauf = on top of it.

c.j.d.

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#29 Dreamtime
March 28, 2005, 05:24:52 pm
I spoke to young Hockstack about this yesterday, who has just been to Crestianov with said 'Steel Featherweight Boy' Graham, and Dreamtime has indeed been chipped.  The sit down section now has chipped crimps as opposed to slopers (which, I can assure you, where very obviously slopey, not crimpy!).  This by all accounts makes the first section considerably easier, finishing with the unaltered 8a stand up (used to get 8a+).  I'm sure you can all do the maths.  Bloody chipping.  Also, Grahams new 8b+ at Chironico has also been chipped - could we have a single culprit on our hands?  I wonder...

dave

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#30 Dreamtime
March 28, 2005, 09:27:05 pm
didn't big malc recon that it hadn't been chipped though? I'm sure i read that somewhere.

andy_e

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#31 Dreamtime
March 28, 2005, 10:30:52 pm
how many repeats has it had now?

Fingers of a Martyr

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#32 Dreamtime
March 29, 2005, 12:07:52 am
Quote from: "dave"
didn't big malc recon that it hadn't been chipped though? I'm sure i read that somewhere.


yup. malc said that, iho, dreamtime had not changed at all, since he first tried it in 2001...

however he said this a good few months ago when he climbed dreamtime for the first time, so it may have been altered since then...

c.j.d.

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#33 Dreamtime
March 29, 2005, 11:52:44 am
It has been chipped recentley by all accounts - a young finish guy who also did it said it was definatley 8b ish bow because of this.

tatanka

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#34 Re: Dreamtime
April 08, 2005, 06:31:24 pm
Quote from: "unclesomebody"
it seems the downgrades are just coming in thick and fast.  Worth reading what Moser has to say;

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=437

In my opinion it had to happen.  Every man and his dog has done dreamtime... how many other 8B+/C's have had this many ascents?


Hey guys it is now online an interview to Martin Moser where he says how it found the problem after the chipping, and that in his opinion it his easier for tall people.

Check it out  :shock:

 

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