[unclesomebody]

it seems the downgrades are just coming in thick and fast.  Worth reading what Moser has to say;

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=437

In my opinion it had to happen.  Every man and his dog has done dreamtime... how many other 8B+/C's have had this many ascents?

[Fiend]

Has the quality gone down at all though??

[chris]

still looked fucking nails when me and dobbin were there this feb

think dobbin briefly tried it but was knackered after 5 days of crankage, so binnned it off.....probably would have seen another brit ascent if he'd have stuck it out :wink:

still very hard, although its kinda nice that the people saying its easier than 8c have actually ascended the problem

[unclesomebody]

it seems to me that top level climbing and top level climbers are a bit elitist and want it to stay that way.  That's why no one wants to downgrade stuff like dreamtime.  Once they climb it they are part of the "club" and it feels good and people give them respect and stuff, but in reality they should just be honest and say it felt easier than a bunch of other problems that they have done.  Malc was honest when he did it and there was controversy that holds had been enlarged due to wire brushing.  He only downgraded it to 8B+ so this latest repeat and downgrade will hopefully be based on honesty and not "my dick's bigger than yours" style of downgrading!  

rant over.  time for eggs! :

[chris]

my dick is definately bigger than yours unc :wink:

its the same old arguement of problem suitability...if it suits its easier, never going to get a problem that has an exact grade that everybody on the planet agrees with.

as far as the dick licking club i agree.....emphasised last year when gaskins repeated markus bock's gossip 8c in about 10 seconds, then bock slagged him off basically calling him a liar.

smith and gaskins should go on a euro tour, climb everybody's problems in rapid time, downgrade them and generally wind  up all these european waddage types

climbed 8a in the school yet.....schoolgirl??? :up:

[dobbin]

probably would have seen another brit ascent if he'd have stuck it out

 


Ha! I wish, I don't climb 8b!

Apparently Benchmark 8a from standing. I would love to climb this problem, it is an awesome line on an amazing prow of granite, I do think that for the time bieng I'm seriously outgunned!

[saltbeef]

come on ben, you need to believe.

[saltbeef]

chris you should check unclesomebody's 8a scorecard...

[Fingers of a Martyr]

So did the truth ever ought over the wire brushing shenanigans?

I got the impression, at the time, that the euro's made it up because Smith downgraded it?

[chris]

dont know if the holds have altered at all, only been to cres once, interesting though if you watch malc on the prob then watch say zangerl or calibani, its different, smithy makes it look about 7a....the others dont....maybe it just suited smithy beter, or maybe over time since those early ascents the holds have grown

if im honest i cant see the holds getting bigger; they are totally solid granite. come on it cant deteriorate that quickly its hardly a trade route is it :wink:

[Fingers of a Martyr]

To be fair, Zangerl minces it on No Comment, he makes it look VERY easy, but yeah Smith does walk it. I think i've seen 5 vids of different peeps doin dreamtime; zang, smith, sharma, Graham? maybe i'm imgaining that one, lol, but imo that italian police man dude, i've forgotten his name makes it look the easiest. He really does just walk up the thing.

edit: here he is, Christian Core, absolute waddage

http://www.planetmountain.com/English/Special/people/core/index.html

[Hendo]

The infoboulder.com website has the video of Christian Core's actual accent, Malcolm Smith certainly made it look easier.

Theres also 2 interesting letters from Fred Nicole and Toni Lamprecht regarding the hold modifications on the site as well.  Use Google language tools to translate the web site from Italian to English.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

Ah well, fair enough.

[Terrace Ghost]

'it seems to me that top level climbing and top level climbers are a bit elitist and want it to stay that way. That's why no one wants to downgrade stuff like dreamtime.'

More likely that they just dont give a f**k.  The grade is just a guide after all.  Who knows, they may have said it was soft touch to their friends but its not been reported.  Shit is being done all the time that never gets reported.

It has had quite a few repeats now but then it is an amazing looking problem.  If your gonna put the effort in to do a hard problem your gonna make sure its a good one.  

Anyway, the next Dreamtine ascent is coming from Saltbeef.  The amazing body tension he has gained from his big red shinny ball is second to non.

[saltbeef]

CHECK MY SHINY RED BALL!!!

[Huffy]

The infoboulder.com website has the video of Christian Core's actual accent, Malcolm Smith certainly made it look easier.

eh?


...don't forget about  those other 'european waddage types' like Calibani with his 2 day ascent.

Amazing line

[SA Chris]

The infoboulder.com website has the video of Christian Core's actual accent,

What you see him speaking?  :D

[unclesomebody]

well, you would actually only hear him speaking, not SEE him speaking.  

[Huffy]

See more action from the beast at his local - Varazze, Italy. The 8a+, Rampage looks awesome!

http://www.nadventure.com/Galleries/video/boulderindex.html#

Username: Casablanca
Password: Bogart

(thanks Rich!)

Huffy

[Sam]

out of curiosity, what does Dreamtime get in the Fontainegraham scale?

[Bubba]

8b+

[Huffy]

8a+/8b according to Mosernator...climbed it in a session :shock:

Photos - http://www.mahrabauer.com/news

[Sloper]

Ok, now I've not been to cresciano and I'm not an 8a climber, but let's be fair, how many ascents has dreamtime had?
4,5, 10?

SOme problems suite some climbers and as such some climbers will tend to down grade some problems.

I ilke slopers, I am a thug but this doesn't mean that the 6b+ I flashed is really only 5+ because I made it looke easy.

Grades need years and 100's of ascents to stablise

[SA Chris]

well, you would actually only hear him speaking, not SEE him speaking.  

If it was a video, you would actually see AND hear him.

But I digress.

[jonas]

8a+/8b according to Mosernator...climbed it in a session :shock:

Photos - http://www.mahrabauer.com/news

Is it because my german is so limited that I cannot detect the finer nuances and ironies, or does he comes across as a complete pratt, when he describes the acsent of dreamtime?