Dreamtime (Read 12182 times)

unclesomebody · March 16, 2005, 12:28:44 am

it seems the downgrades are just coming in thick and fast. Worth reading what Moser has to say;

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=437

In my opinion it had to happen. Every man and his dog has done dreamtime... how many other 8B+/C's have had this many ascents?

Fiend · March 16, 2005, 09:02:25 am

Has the quality gone down at all though??

chris · March 16, 2005, 09:04:40 am

still looked fucking nails when me and dobbin were there this feb

think dobbin briefly tried it but was knackered after 5 days of crankage, so binnned it off.....probably would have seen another brit ascent if he'd have stuck it out :wink:

still very hard, although its kinda nice that the people saying its easier than 8c have actually ascended the problem

unclesomebody · March 16, 2005, 10:49:55 am

it seems to me that top level climbing and top level climbers are a bit elitist and want it to stay that way. That's why no one wants to downgrade stuff like dreamtime. Once they climb it they are part of the "club" and it feels good and people give them respect and stuff, but in reality they should just be honest and say it felt easier than a bunch of other problems that they have done. Malc was honest when he did it and there was controversy that holds had been enlarged due to wire brushing. He only downgraded it to 8B+ so this latest repeat and downgrade will hopefully be based on honesty and not "my dick's bigger than yours" style of downgrading!

rant over. time for eggs! :

chris · March 16, 2005, 10:59:05 am

my dick is definately bigger than yours unc :wink:

its the same old arguement of problem suitability...if it suits its easier, never going to get a problem that has an exact grade that everybody on the planet agrees with.

as far as the dick licking club i agree.....emphasised last year when gaskins repeated markus bock's gossip 8c in about 10 seconds, then bock slagged him off basically calling him a liar.

smith and gaskins should go on a euro tour, climb everybody's problems in rapid time, downgrade them and generally wind up all these european waddage types

climbed 8a in the school yet.....schoolgirl??? :up:

dobbin · March 16, 2005, 11:28:09 am

Quote

probably would have seen another brit ascent if he'd have stuck it out

Ha! I wish, I don't climb 8b!

Apparently Benchmark 8a from standing. I would love to climb this problem, it is an awesome line on an amazing prow of granite, I do think that for the time bieng I'm seriously outgunned!

saltbeef · March 16, 2005, 11:41:24 am

come on ben, you need to believe.

saltbeef · March 16, 2005, 11:43:21 am

chris you should check unclesomebody's 8a scorecard...

Fingers of a Martyr · March 16, 2005, 12:45:59 pm

So did the truth ever ought over the wire brushing shenanigans?

I got the impression, at the time, that the euro's made it up because Smith downgraded it?

chris · March 16, 2005, 01:57:04 pm

dont know if the holds have altered at all, only been to cres once, interesting though if you watch malc on the prob then watch say zangerl or calibani, its different, smithy makes it look about 7a....the others dont....maybe it just suited smithy beter, or maybe over time since those early ascents the holds have grown

if im honest i cant see the holds getting bigger; they are totally solid granite. come on it cant deteriorate that quickly its hardly a trade route is it :wink:

Fingers of a Martyr · March 16, 2005, 02:06:11 pm

To be fair, Zangerl minces it on No Comment, he makes it look VERY easy, but yeah Smith does walk it. I think i've seen 5 vids of different peeps doin dreamtime; zang, smith, sharma, Graham? maybe i'm imgaining that one, lol, but imo that italian police man dude, i've forgotten his name makes it look the easiest. He really does just walk up the thing.

edit: here he is, Christian Core, absolute waddage

http://www.planetmountain.com/English/Special/people/core/index.html

Hendo · March 16, 2005, 02:37:02 pm

The infoboulder.com website has the video of Christian Core's actual accent, Malcolm Smith certainly made it look easier.

Theres also 2 interesting letters from Fred Nicole and Toni Lamprecht regarding the hold modifications on the site as well. Use Google language tools to translate the web site from Italian to English.

Fingers of a Martyr · March 16, 2005, 03:12:01 pm

Ah well, fair enough.

Terrace Ghost · March 16, 2005, 09:49:38 pm

'it seems to me that top level climbing and top level climbers are a bit elitist and want it to stay that way. That's why no one wants to downgrade stuff like dreamtime.'

More likely that they just dont give a f**k. The grade is just a guide after all. Who knows, they may have said it was soft touch to their friends but its not been reported. Shit is being done all the time that never gets reported.

It has had quite a few repeats now but then it is an amazing looking problem. If your gonna put the effort in to do a hard problem your gonna make sure its a good one.

Anyway, the next Dreamtine ascent is coming from Saltbeef. The amazing body tension he has gained from his big red shinny ball is second to non.

saltbeef · March 16, 2005, 10:32:57 pm

CHECK MY SHINY RED BALL!!!

Huffy · March 16, 2005, 11:05:29 pm

Quote

The infoboulder.com website has the video of Christian Core's actual accent, Malcolm Smith certainly made it look easier.

eh?

...don't forget about those other 'european waddage types' like Calibani with his 2 day ascent.

Amazing line

SA Chris · March 17, 2005, 08:02:06 am

Quote from: "Hendo"

The infoboulder.com website has the video of Christian Core's actual accent,

What you see him speaking? :D

unclesomebody · March 17, 2005, 10:41:45 am

well, you would actually only hear him speaking, not SEE him speaking.

Huffy · March 17, 2005, 11:25:30 am

See more action from the beast at his local - Varazze, Italy. The 8a+, Rampage looks awesome!

http://www.nadventure.com/Galleries/video/boulderindex.html#

Username: Casablanca
Password: Bogart

(thanks Rich!)

Huffy

Sam · March 22, 2005, 01:08:09 pm

out of curiosity, what does Dreamtime get in the Fontainegraham scale?

Bubba · March 22, 2005, 01:12:21 pm

Huffy · March 22, 2005, 05:32:43 pm

8a+/8b according to Mosernator...climbed it in a session :shock:

Photos - http://www.mahrabauer.com/news

Sloper · March 23, 2005, 12:20:11 am

Ok, now I've not been to cresciano and I'm not an 8a climber, but let's be fair, how many ascents has dreamtime had?
4,5, 10?

SOme problems suite some climbers and as such some climbers will tend to down grade some problems.

I ilke slopers, I am a thug but this doesn't mean that the 6b+ I flashed is really only 5+ because I made it looke easy.

Grades need years and 100's of ascents to stablise

SA Chris · March 23, 2005, 08:17:11 am

Quote from: "unclesomebody"

well, you would actually only hear him speaking, not SEE him speaking.

If it was a video, you would actually see AND hear him.

But I digress.

jonas · March 23, 2005, 02:02:02 pm

Quote from: "Huffy"

8a+/8b according to Mosernator...climbed it in a session :shock:

Photos - http://www.mahrabauer.com/news

Is it because my german is so limited that I cannot detect the finer nuances and ironies, or does he comes across as a complete pratt, when he describes the acsent of dreamtime?

Huffy · March 23, 2005, 06:24:35 pm

Dreamtime: not an everyday history, by Moser
(badly translated by google...i particularly like the sentence about the pig

)

We are a little later with the Dreamtime block and I are inspired. The grasps look good, the courses might be appropriate for me clearly and not know conditions to be better. Rather it is too cold on the shady side of the Boulder, where Dreamtime is. The many courses let the fingers at the cold stone cool down.
Now I should have however not for a long time my peace. Two Englishmen come along and want to try. I pull line and am content with a good feeling in the belly. After one hour the block is free and I can again in peace climb. There already come the next horde/hurdle, Finn or Sweden. That sits down on my mat, throws its two obendrauf and begins to try. I am not added, because they are too third and have already a queue. The Englishmen go past again, let me however in peace and want their attempts to start later. Englishmen have evenly style.
I rest myself well, rub my shoes cleanly, take magnesia, knead the fingers, take again magnesia and finally am I so far: I want to enter, now. I take the grasps into the hand, determine the feet and claw me so firmly I can to it. I do not make a course what is the matter??
I am above.
I can hardly believe it.
More luck and at the same time one can have pig at all. The hands tremble ten minutes long, both Elleboegen are like a hinge of a Tuere weighing tons and for over one hour have I lead in the arms. One is finished I!!! The Boulder is something special with the changed grasps, the line is a dream and the courses requires the entire Reportoir. However I cannot begin anything with the momentary official evaluation of 8b+.
It seems to me rather to 8Ã¥+/8b.

ned · March 23, 2005, 07:32:40 pm

Quote

I pull line and am content with a good feeling in the belly

Duma · March 23, 2005, 07:56:58 pm

translation programs are genius!

petje · March 24, 2005, 07:31:27 am

I don't know if someone is interrested, but pig comes probably from the german that means in a figure of speech: being lucky (schwein haben).
Also are his elbow (elleboegen) like big hinges on a door wieghing tons.

obendrauf = on top of it.

c.j.d. · March 28, 2005, 05:24:52 pm

I spoke to young Hockstack about this yesterday, who has just been to Crestianov with said 'Steel Featherweight Boy' Graham, and Dreamtime has indeed been chipped. The sit down section now has chipped crimps as opposed to slopers (which, I can assure you, where very obviously slopey, not crimpy!). This by all accounts makes the first section considerably easier, finishing with the unaltered 8a stand up (used to get 8a+). I'm sure you can all do the maths. Bloody chipping. Also, Grahams new 8b+ at Chironico has also been chipped - could we have a single culprit on our hands? I wonder...

dave · March 28, 2005, 09:27:05 pm

didn't big malc recon that it hadn't been chipped though? I'm sure i read that somewhere.

andy_e · March 28, 2005, 10:30:52 pm

how many repeats has it had now?

Fingers of a Martyr · March 29, 2005, 12:07:52 am

Quote from: "dave"

didn't big malc recon that it hadn't been chipped though? I'm sure i read that somewhere.

yup. malc said that, iho, dreamtime had not changed at all, since he first tried it in 2001...

however he said this a good few months ago when he climbed dreamtime for the first time, so it may have been altered since then...

c.j.d. · March 29, 2005, 11:52:44 am

It has been chipped recentley by all accounts - a young finish guy who also did it said it was definatley 8b ish bow because of this.

tatanka · April 08, 2005, 06:31:24 pm

Quote from: "unclesomebody"

it seems the downgrades are just coming in thick and fast. Worth reading what Moser has to say;

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=437

In my opinion it had to happen. Every man and his dog has done dreamtime... how many other 8B+/C's have had this many ascents?

Hey guys it is now online an interview to Martin Moser where he says how it found the problem after the chipping, and that in his opinion it his easier for tall people.

Check it out :shock: