[JR]

No name or grade as yet.

[Bonjoy]

Amazing! How paddable was the landing? Is it fall-off-able or is it more like a serious solo? Was it ground up?

[Johnny Brown]

F*ckin top-roper. :evil:

Careless talk?

[james]

The landing is horrible.  I top roped it and then soloed above 3 pads and was worried.  I dont beleive in padding out grit routes, it is cheating, where do you draw the line at how many pads to use?  This is a boulder problem, just use lots of pads and spotters.  I would have used more pads, but couldnt carry any more.  Would be a great effort for someone to do it ground up.

[james]

F*ckin top-roper. :evil:

Careless talk?

I know, I know.  Slap my wrists.  I only had one day to do it and thought since I had been on tr before, one more time wouldn't hurt

CT is still being tried ground up.  I think it will have to wait until next year, it was bad conditions on the sloper yesterday but progress is being made.  It will be too hot by the time I am back.

[Stu Littlefair]

Chattering Classes?

[cofe]

peerless nauks?

[Bonjoy]

Keenus Torque? Jennifer's Wall?

[Johnny Brown]

I always thought it was 'Norks'. Or maybe 'Norques' would be better?

Anyone know Ronnie barker so we can ask him?

[AndyR]

Caress Pork?

[SA Chris]

Or "Costs Lives" going back to where the original name of Careless Torque comes from?

[chris]

this may sound dumb, but what part of the wall does it climb....its quite a large boulder....just to the letf of careless torque or further left? surely there must be some piccies of the young gun crimping his way up this monstrosity

never really looked at this wall as it looked so improbable so good effort keenus, keep it up :

[neil@canaryclimbs]

nice one onki, did you do it the same way we were trying it or did you get a new sequence


respect

[Kim]

Exactly the same way my old onki onk, how was the spa  :roll:  

[james]

I pinched the photo of cockfax so ignore the people and caption thing.
You can just about see the 3 brushed cripm rails leading leftwards to the top corner of the pic.  The bottom one is way more visible than the rest.  There is also a mono out right, maybe in the green streak but im not 100%

[chris]

well top effort mate, looks like no holds to me :wink:

cool line....blank walls always look great as they are so unobvious

whats it like in terms of difficulty and fear.....boulder problem/route grade? landing doesn't look the best for a start so im guessing shit loads of pads and massive kahooonas to boot!

[Fiend]

Another bonus effortus keenus youthus. Things are dropping like flies. Hope you guys get another bit of decent winter weather before spring slithers up on us.

Also...

I dont beleive in padding out grit routes, it is cheating, where do you draw the line at how many pads to use?  This is a boulder problem, just use lots of pads and spotters.  

...I have extra respect that you're thinking seriously about style of ascent and stuff, and what style you're chosing to do such climbs in.

P.S. We need numbers.

P.P.S. I've got a good method of carrying at least two pads at once: Wear one rucsac style, and have the other one "handbag" style, and flick it over the top of the first so the strap is just behind your shoulders resting on the first pads shoulder straps. Could probably carry a 3rd somewhere too.

P.P.P.S. Is CT Left Hand considered a line?

[Johnny Brown]

I dont beleive in padding out grit routes, it is cheating, where do you draw the line at how many pads to use? This is a boulder problem, just use lots of pads and spotters.

Does that make sense to you then?

Is it a problem or a route? I reckon, as its on a boulder, its a problem. Hence the pads/ spotters/ ground-up approach should be preferred to the top-roped rehearsal.

[Huffy]

Nice one James, looks like wicked climbing. Whats are the moves like, crux etc?

I can't see the problem with top roping here. Its hard and has a bad landing...


Huffy

[andy_e]

whoo. thats seriously cool
how about the name "careful turning force"?

[dave]

queerless dork

[Huffy]

Torque away

[james]

After much searching on the tinterweb for a name to do this problem justice, I have been left wanting.  So, from this day forward, let it be known as Careless Youth!
As for the grade, 7c seems fair to me.

[neil@canaryclimbs]

nice on onki, glad you did it and no one else


SPA was fine man, good weekend actually, weather was tops.

Im of to font the morn for 2 and a half weeks



take it easy

[Avoiding the Traitor]

I pinched the photo of cockfax so ignore the people and caption thing.
You can just about see the 3 brushed cripm rails leading leftwards to the top corner of the pic.  The bottom one is way more visible than the rest.  There is also a mono out right, maybe in the green streak but im not 100%

Oi that my picture !!. A tenner please for using it