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5.10 V10 (Read 2673 times)

Moo

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5.10 V10
March 13, 2005, 11:13:50 pm
Anyone owned a pair of these shoes, I've got a pair of anasazis but want something with a bit more toe down for steeper stuff, these look perfect for the job but was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. cheers

Carnage

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#1 5.10 V10
March 14, 2005, 01:31:50 am
I like 'em for the steep stuff and they are super sticky. They're pretty small for the size so you may find you need an increase. The heels are rubbish tho, I've pulled them off loads when hooking and mine are tight!  :roll:

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#2 5.10 V10
March 14, 2005, 06:50:30 am
I've got a super small pair (read: my normal 5.10 size) and they're good for steep stuff, but other than that they're not very good.

J.P

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#3 5.10 V10
March 14, 2005, 08:58:18 am
I had a pair and agree on that the heel is shite. If you got a slightly narrow heel don´t bother with the V10. Another really anoying issue is the rubber band around the heel. It broke after just a few weeks! I sent them back, got a new pair and the same thing happend again. I know other climbers experienced the same thing.
Now I am the happy owner of La Sportiva Venom. Fits like a glove :D

DrWong

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#4 5.10 V10
March 14, 2005, 12:53:49 pm
I would have to agree with the above comments in that you need a really tight pair of V10s to prevent the heel slipping off. The fit is quite shallow and if you have a high arch and narrow heel they can feel a bit insecure.

I don't know if you specifically want a slipper but if your keen on the V10 you might consider the Dragon. Same last so essentially the same shoe as the V10 but with the added security of velcro so you heel is less likely to slip out. I think 5.10 are closing out the dragon so you can find them on the net for cheap.

Both the Dragon and V10 excel on steep stuff but next to useless on slabs and dire on grit. Roof toe hooking is also a bit limited (bring back the rock sock!). Its 5.10 quality so don't expect to them to last - I went through 3 pairs of dragons and 2 pairs of v10s in 6 months! But that might be due to my poor footwork.

I have moved on to the Mad Rock Loco for a good steep shoe. Almost as good as the legendary Rock Sock.

Doylo

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#5 5.10 V10
March 14, 2005, 02:30:21 pm
Quote from: "J.P"
I had a pair and agree on that the heel is shite. If you got a slightly narrow heel don´t bother with the V10. Another really anoying issue is the rubber band around the heel. It broke after just a few weeks! I sent them back, got a new pair and the same thing happend again. I know other climbers experienced the same thing.
Now I am the happy owner of La Sportiva Venom. Fits like a glove :D


having said that ry pasquill may not have done spectre if it hadn't been for the narrow heel on the v10, although i agree in general the heels are shit. As for the shoe in general there by far the best boots i've worn and for me they're good on all styles of climbing not just steep stuff. As far as i'm aware you can't get them in the uk at the moment though, anyone know different?

p.s. a good tip to help preserve the heel which tends to get damaged when pulling the shoe on (usual 5.10 shit quality!)  is to use two small squares of folded back shiny duct tape. With this method you can get the shoe on with half the effort and there is less strain on the shoe.

Moo

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#6 5.10 V10
March 14, 2005, 07:58:54 pm
I'm pretty sure that needle sports on keswick has the v10's in, so crap heels you say, how would they compare do you reckon with the scarpa vortex, which is along the same lines and a shoe which i love dearly but why violet these look snazier by a mile

http://www.scarpa.co.uk/rock/vortexle.html

dontfollowme

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#7 5.10 V10
March 14, 2005, 09:14:36 pm
I don't understand the thinking of Scarpa announcing a new shoe and then saying it will be released in September. I need some new rock boots now so will probably go for the Vortex which is a couple of years old now.

J.P

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#8 5.10 V10
March 15, 2005, 09:02:47 am
Quote from: "Moo"
I'm pretty sure that needle sports on keswick has the v10's in, so crap heels you say, how would they compare do you reckon with the scarpa vortex, which is along the same lines and a shoe which i love dearly but why violet these look snazier by a mile

http://www.scarpa.co.uk/rock/vortexle.html


I´d say the Vortex has a snugger fit. I felt the V10 had much of the same heel as the Anasazi velcro - too baggy. But then that´s just me with my narrow heels  :?
If you like the Vortex it may be a good chance you like the Venom even better. By far the best shoe I´ve ever worn and one I can´t stop raving on about
 :)

Moo

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#9 5.10 V10
March 15, 2005, 05:16:24 pm
I did try the venoms, theyre good, but I think the votex's are more sensitive which is one of the reasons I really liked them

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#10 5.10 V10
March 15, 2005, 07:53:52 pm
for me it's all about the anasazi slipper...you know, the pale blue one? beautiful.. :clap:

Duma

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#11 5.10 V10
March 15, 2005, 08:13:33 pm
anyone know anything about these? :
http://www.lasportiva.com/catalogue/catalogo2005.php?cat=1&cod3=229&Language=EN&IDH-100001222003=2

fits like a sock they say, hmmmm.

Moo

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#12 5.10 V10
March 16, 2005, 02:47:48 pm
they I'm definitly into minamilist shoes at the moment just like rucksacks

 

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