[JR]

I think the titles fairly self-explanatory!

No doubt kim will edit the footage and get it on beardown soon.

Effort youth....    

[dave]

for real?

word.

[JR]

damn straight for real...

[dave]

uberwaddage

[Bubba]

Fuggin hell - nice one James

[Paz]

Nice one.  

Just thinking the other day, is the french grade still thought to be 8b+?  And have Neil Bentley or the Gresham or the Youth ever climbed harder than 8b on bolts?

[cofe]

go jennifer

[fatboySlimfast]

respect to matlocks premier steely fingered uber crimper......

[Fiend]

That's quite a bon effort as head-pointing goes!

I was there last year sometime when he was checking it on abseil and unclesomebody and toby b were falling off parthian repeatedly....impressive that he got it done. Damn young hotshots.

[ned]

good work

[Paz]

I'm feeling quite impatient, I'm sure you'd get it by tommorrow but I'll fill in the gaps now:
cos that would mean the hardest bit of climbing any of them have done is on a trad route, and I think that's pretty damn cool.

Update: NG's done 8b+, but he then at least equalled this on (or at least someway above) gear

[dave]

also heard a rumour that someone recently onsighted 3 blind mice above a snowdrift - any takers?

[Fiend]

With some of the snowdrifts recently you could have probably done a sitter straight into the crux of 3BM!

[fatneck]

Awesome effort! Looking forward to the vid!

[Johnny Brown]

for real?

word.

Fo real.

Just to prove he could climb harder, he also included a quick sketch to entertain the watching masses.

[Sloper]

fine efffort, the big question is what's next?

[Bubba]

Turn them steely fingers to Sampson?

[Johnny Brown]

The media had been informed...

[cofe]

take it you were after the bigger picture?

go kim.

[Buoux 8C]

Nice one James, sounds good,

Out of interest what gear is needed for Equilibrium, is that the only bit of gear on the whole route that James has in or is their some higher up, if so where is the gear? did he take any falls on lead?
can someone be specific with the sizes etc? and how easy the gear is to place?

[nik at work]

Bon effort.

Whats next?

[Johnny Brown]

Out of interest what gear is needed for Equilibrium, is that the only bit of gear on the whole route that James has in or is their some higher up, if so where is the gear? did he take any falls on lead?
can someone be specific with the sizes etc? and how easy the gear is to place?

Couple of cams in the break where James is above, then another in the pocket after the hard climbing to protect the top.
James can probably fill you in with the exact sizes.
He didn't take any lead falls - the move he sketched on was the slap to the pocket. You wouldn't want to fall off that move.
Good luck for the on-sight.

[Fiend]

Good luck for the on-sight.

 :dancing:  :rocker2:  

P.S. Nice pictures can you super size them please.

P.P.S. Agree with B-man, someone needs to do something with Sampson like climb it.

[chris]

yeah, good effort james, keep it up really really impressive.

samson...think buoux 8c should tackle that one after his recent school performances....dobbin told me you'd done perky pinky? last time i was up i knew you'd done the moves but not the whole thing....probably old news. unfortunately after my move back to manchester no school action and no internet so bit behind the times.

[cofe]

someone needs to do something with Sampson like climb it.

i thought someone had which is why it was downgraded in the guide to E6 7a.

[Bubba]

I thought it was still unrepeated?

Who did it?

[cofe]

soz word. i'm being sarcy... it was downgraded in the globalconfax inc. guide.

[Bubba]

ah, you and your devious humour!

[Pantontino]

Check this:

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_route.html?id=1178

[Bubba]

I'm not a big fan of regrading by people who haven't done something :roll:

[Pantontino]

Agreed, but the final comment from Gaz Parry about Adam Dewhurst toproping it cleanly does carry some weight. Still, strange that it hasn't been repeated - there must be loads of mutants knocking about the Peak capable of this sort of standard.

[cofe]

Still, strange that it hasn't been repeated - there must be loads of mutants knocking about the Peak capable of this sort of standard.

true. i just wish i could find the time.

[JR]

Out of interest what gear is needed for Equilibrium, is that the only bit of gear on the whole route that James has in or is their some higher up, if so where is the gear? did he take any falls on lead?
can someone be specific with the sizes etc? and how easy the gear is to place?

Couple of cams in the break where James is above, then another in the pocket after the hard climbing to protect the top.
James can probably fill you in with the exact sizes.
He didn't take any lead falls - the move he sketched on was the slap to the pocket. You wouldn't want to fall off that move.
Good luck for the on-sight.

WC 3 in the pocket at the top.  Not supposed to be very good.

Dont know the others think it might have been a red zero a WC 1 and something else.  No doubt james will correct me.

[Buoux 8C]

Thanks il get in touch with james about the gear, another daft question, does the route start up the boggart crack then rightwards along the break where the gear is then up the arete?
Or does it have its own independant start to the right of bogart crack?

its a bit more complicated than sport climbing their aint no shiny bolts to follow

[cofe]

direct start up the arete - 'yoghurt'. yoghurt the route used to climb the arete and then traverse left to finish up boggart. hence why equilibium was always referred to as yoghurt arete prior to the FA. you shimmy left a bit to the gear. shimmy shimmy.

[Buoux 8C]

So you actually traverse away from the arete to place the gear then traverse back to finish up the arete? Whats to stop you taversing another move and placing a cam higher up in the leftwards crack? hence having even higher gear?
Im only going by the pics on this site so may be totally wrong, but surely if would be better but obviously alot scarier for someone to climb the route without this gear?
Also the high pocket which contains some more gear, do you have to use this for your hand? if so how do you place the gear? or is it easier than it sounds?

thanks

[Johnny Brown]

So you actually traverse away from the arete to place the gear then traverse back to finish up the arete? Whats to stop you taversing another move and placing a cam higher up in the leftwards crack? hence having even higher gear?

Nuthin. Only it'd get a lower E grade, and Bentley's line in the sand seems to have been a fair one. Personally I'd value an on-sight/ ground-up with a high side runner much higher than another rehearsed ascent.

Im only going by the pics on this site so may be totally wrong, but surely if would be better but obviously alot scarier for someone to climb the route without this gear?

The gear isn't far off route, but again, nuthin to stop you breakin with tradition. Guess it'd be worth E12?

Also the high pocket which contains some more gear, do you have to use this for your hand? if so how do you place the gear? or is it easier than it sounds?

There are two pockets at a similar height, so you're only blocking one up.

[Buoux 8C]

Thanks Adam thats sorted that out then, just need to speak to mop headed yoof about what gear and getting a hair cut.

Wow 100 posts how sad no wonder im weak lately

[neil@canaryclimbs]

nice one onki, you did it even with out me being there to bet you to do some crzy dyno


by the uncle give me a ring

[Bonjoy]

Fantastic effort Keenus!

[Doylo]

moon - top rope, proclaimed hard 8b+
bentley - years of effort
gresham- years of effort and yoga
Pierce Darse- 3 sessions!

Whos says standards aren't rising! Go girl!