[Jim]

goal for this year is to climb a proper 7c before the winter is out. I'm very close on a couple on grit but I'd like to do a real 7c (ie in font)
Any suggestions?
I recon I'll be able to do carnage assis quite easily (if my carnage fingers heals in the next two weeks!)

[chris]

try the powerband, the easy way (easy 7c), that avoids the last very hard move by either using a jumpy move or a long reach, very good problem and easy to work as its a traverse.....prob still wet though.

Grit wise, go and try Flatworld...a top All Wiliams problem at Baslow, nice setting, not busy and a wicked problem with technical sequence def 7c.

[Jim]

I'd like to do a real 7c (ie in font)

cheers for that but see above

[Johnny Brown]

36.15 power is supposed to be easy for 7c, especially as it gets 7c+.

[chris]

real 7cs in font...ange naif at 95.2 is easy 7c, looked very good too.
total eclipse 7c at cul de chien looks good
salle gosse 7c at ...cant remeber where that is but someone else will.
l'abbe resina 7c at cuvier, next to carnage may be worth a try, but conditions dependant. Good luck

[Jim]

salle gosse 7c at ...

Roche aux sabots

 will deffo be trying eclipse and ange naif again but that crimp on ange naif is well painfully after a while. not really looked at salle gosse

[chris]

salle gosse looked good, only tried it briefly and found it difficult. Think when you get the sequenc right it wouldnt be too bad although quite easy to slip off.

Try the sitter to carnage especially as im assuming you've done the stand up version?? Good hard problem, lots of kudos etc...

alta is another good looking problem, had a brief look although it was far to hot to try and i mean hot like fucking baking so couldn't tell you what its like. enjoy :wink:

[BoulderHog]

Mur de Son is 7C, feels a piece of piss in good weather, and 7C dyno next to it is also pretty straightforward (at Petit Bois).

Otherwise Berezina is pretty good 7C.

36.15 Power is solid 7C and no way an easy option, unless you use the holds out left (7A+ version) which some people must get confused about.

Fondation is your best bet 7C, about on the line 7C difficulty, so you can sleep easy with it under your belt.

Shit I wish I was out there now, Being a climber ain't so great when you're skint.

[dave]

real 7cs in font...ange naif at 95.2 is easy 7c, looked very good too.
total eclipse 7c at cul de chien looks good

ange naif is about 7b if we're being honest, but it is bo though, watch your skin on the crimp. total eclipse is 8a+, eclipse is 7c, must get back and ice that.

the dyno at petit bois probably is easy for 7c, its easier than peter pan thats for sure. aerodynamite is 7c in the godoffe guide which would have been soft, but now its 7b+ is a battle.

carnage assis i recon would hardly be any harder than normal carnage - apparently to make it 7c you have to go from the lefthand slot/sloper (after the crimp) straight through to the boss jug with right, i.e. missing out the match move. More to the point its a bit of a shitty worthless "just for the numbers" sitstart.

[Jim]

its a bit of a shitty worthless "just for the numbers" sitstart.

thats what were talkin about  

[Fiend]

its a bit of a shitty worthless "just for the numbers" sitstart.

thats what were talkin about  

LOL, I hadn't scrolled down to Jim's post when I was reading Daves and I just KNEW he'd say that  

[petje]

I think you should look into big boss also. Good holds and good landing and an amazing line.
Also michel ange in rempart right of duroxmanie. Not too hard.
If you like minicrimps, try murmure.
ange naïf still gets 7c so go for it.
Another one: noir desir.
What about la balance or balancette? classic
If you have big cohones: arrache couer in isatis. Or maybe super joker?
I think eclipse and sale goss are not to easy for 7c.
when you like a lot of moves, iceberg in isatis
Alta is good for the grade.
In my oppoinion sur-prises could be 7c as well, but it's not aparrently. But a beauty anyhow.

pick your choice, there's enough

[Scouse D]

real 7cs in font...ange naif at 95.2 is easy 7c, looked very good too.
total eclipse 7c at cul de chien looks good

the dyno at petit bois probably is easy for 7c,
.

Might be 7c if you top it out,  but that's just pure conjecture... :wink:

[sto]

L'Arrache Coeur at Isatis on the ridge by itself b/w El Poussif and Memel. It supposedly is the easiest 7c in the forest, partly for the height I think. I was spotting someone doing it. 6a for a couple of moves to a knee bar. Release the knee bar and barely reach the lip. Then use a couple of good tile crimps to go for one of two monster jugs at the lip. The fall at the release the knee bar part are clean anyway. There are bad rocks here and there but they are not in the natural landing zone unless you spin off the top or something. It's a beautiful looking problem.

[dave]

arrache coeur looks dope, dunno why we keep going to font and not trying it! Think michael ange seems very hard for 7b+ and probably still desperate for 7c. Bearing in mind a certain walliams-esque UK waddage cun't do it when we were there  :shock:

ange naif still might get 7c, doesn't stop it being easier than most 7b+s....

[account_inactive]

From what I've heard arrache coeur is still pretty hard/scarey.  I know several 7c climbers who have had problems with it.

The sitter to Carnage is just a joke, unless as Dave says it has some wack eliminate sequence.

Aerodynamite is probably 7b+ in Peak grades so you wouldn't want to spend ages on that

[BoulderHog]

The sitter to carnage felt harder than berezina in my opinion, you'll be surprised how much energy is lost just getting your position for the throw right. Mind you, if you've got even a tiny bit of stamina then maybe it feels easy, I wouldn't know about that though

Sitting Bull at Apremeont is a really good 7C, nice to get a bit of roof climbing in as well, don't see too much of it at font. Again it is towards the easier side of 7C, it has a big jug in it half way. Cool problem though.

[BoulderHog]

By the way, Big Boss looks like one of the best lines I've ever seen (apart from the polish) but never tried it, anyone know what it's like? The jump from the roof part to the pocket looks hard. Is the top out ok? it looks as if you would drop onto the boulder if you screwed it up. Can't wait for my next trip, it's on the top of the list.

[Jim]

Sitting Bull at Apremeont is a really good 7C, nice to get a bit of roof climbing in as well, don't see too much of it at font. Again it is towards the easier side of 7C, it has a big jug in it half way. Cool problem though.

Good choice, din't try when was there and not been back to apremeont since. will hopefully go there in a couple of weeks as I need to go back and tick crazy horse

[Duma]

By the way, Big Boss looks like one of the best lines I've ever seen (apart from the polish) but never tried it, anyone know what it's like? The jump from the roof part to the pocket looks hard. Is the top out ok? it looks as if you would drop onto the boulder if you screwed it up.

It's the crux for me,  the move into the crack at the start is fair tricky if you're not tall too. top out's ok, the boulder on the left is intimidating when your up there but you'd be unlucky to hit it.
Another vote for Sitting Bull's quality here too!

[petje]

There is no real jump to the pocket, but it is the crux. You can avoid the boulder left down very good by putting a spotter on it. Then you will never hit it really.

Next week i am gonna check out sitting bull also. And crazy horse of course. Bleau roof climbing!

[Jim]

Is there still loads of snow over there at the minute?

[petje]

Even if there is, the temperature is going up above 0 now. It will be gone in a few days latest. It shouldbe dry for easterweekend though. Will anybody there to meet up with?

[Jim]

think it would be easier to ask who's not there

[petje]

Yes of course, but it would be fun to meet, and then i better ask who is where and when, if someone is actually interested to meet up with a silly dutchman and try some 7c's together.