[guppy]

[color=#] [/color]
Any one recommend 5 must do problems in the Bishop area...Buttermilks,Sads...etc as i will be there over Easter
 Cheers
Guppy  :twisted:

[SA Chris]

What grade range?

[account_inactive]

That's a good point, I'm going to be there at the beginning of April for 10 days.

So hit me with some classics V7 to V11 pleeeeeeeeeeeeeese

D

[Stubbs]

just gonna bite Lisa Rands' tick list from dosage, but Morning Dove White (V8)
 

and Soulslinger (V9?)  both seem like stone cold classics.

[guppy]

Anything up to about V8, but mainly in the v4-v7 range
Cheers Guppy :

[moose]

No problem recommendations (wasn't there long enough or climbed hard enough) - just a friendly warning to take plenty of tape to the Happys.  The holds on most of the problems I did (v. low grade stuff admittedly) were just plain evil - really bite into your finger tendons, hanging them seems more a matter of pain threshold than finger strength.

[Doylo]

buttermilk stem v2
jedi mind tricks v3
iron man v4 (boring but classic)
secrets of the bee hive(take lots of pads, e4), arch druid, V5
Saigon, popes prow V6
High Plains Drifter V7
Checkerboard, Cayla, V8
Soulslinger V8/9
Stained Glass v10
Lounge Lizards V11,

all world class problems and the main tick of each grade. Learn to tape those tips!

the happies and sads are shite. druids are v.good

[guppy]

Thanks for the info
Cheers Guppy :

[SA Chris]

Bit rich for my blood, those grades, but I can Recommend
Lydia's Mouth V3 for pure wierdness
Thunder V3(?) at Druids.
Beekeeping for Profit and Pleasure V4 (even tho' I falied on the last move)

Snowboarding at Mammoth is ace too.

[AndyR]

the happies and sads are shite.

Are you on drugs?

[SA Chris]

I think it's fair to say some parts of the Happys and Sads are shite, but some parts are superb. The Clapper and Not the Clapper are well worth seeking out (on the North Canyon Rim), Not the Clapper being one of the finest V1s I have done, and I have done MANY.

[rai]

atari:


don't miss the get carter boulder on the backside of the buttermilks or checkerboard 'cross the street from the milks proper.

[Bubba]

What a stunning backdrop!

[SA Chris]

Aye, it's a sweet shot. Accoridng to Mick Ryan, Atari has so far accounted for half a dozen screwed ankles. in its short lifespan.

[Doylo]

the happies and sads are shite.

Are you on drugs?

No but i had to take morphine before i visited. For a world famous crag its shite, the rock is basically dried mud and those pockest are so painful. And its  always packed.  And as for the Sads i wouldn't travel across Britain to climb there never mind half way round the world. Why bother when the buttermilks are just up the road?  Having said that Heavlenly Slab and Strength in Numbers are very good.

[sharkey]

We had a whole week at the Happies/sads due to snow, the crowds, packs of dogs(Dobermans) do give it the feel of a city mall, hardly a wilderness experience, a few good problems, if you canshut out the distractions. "Wowser -Send it dude!"

[AndyR]

the happies and sads are shite.

Are you on drugs?

No but i had to take morphine before i visited. For a world famous crag its shite, the rock is basically dried mud and those pockest are so painful. And its  always packed.  And as for the Sads i wouldn't travel across Britain to climb there never mind half way round the world. Why bother when the buttermilks are just up the road?  Having said that Heavlenly Slab and Strength in Numbers are very good.

Guess I'm just used to climbing on very rough irish granite, but I found the climbing v easy on the hands after the buttermilks.

Each to their own I guess, I thought the climbing was fantastic on interesting rock - sure there are some problems that sport shonky rock, but I found it solid on all the classics.

Personally, I'd take the Happys over bas cuvier anyday, but I'm sure lots would disagree with me.

[SA Chris]

We had a whole week at the Happies/sads due to snow, the crowds, packs of dogs(Dobermans) do give it the feel of a city mall, hardly a wilderness experience, a few good problems, if you canshut out the distractions. "Wowser -Send it dude!"

Did you go up the Gorge a bit, or get up to the canyon rims? Some of the best rock and problems are up there. And you keep away from the rabble, once you have ticked Solarium, which is a class problem I forgot to mention.

[Doylo]

the happies and sads are shite.

Are you on drugs?

No but i had to take morphine before i visited. For a world famous crag its shite, the rock is basically dried mud and those pockest are so painful. And its  always packed.  And as for the Sads i wouldn't travel across Britain to climb there never mind half way round the world. Why bother when the buttermilks are just up the road?  Having said that Heavlenly Slab and Strength in Numbers are very good.

Guess I'm just used to climbing on very rough irish granite, but I found the climbing v easy on the hands after the buttermilks.

Each to their own I guess, I thought the climbing was fantastic on interesting rock - sure there are some problems that sport shonky rock, but I found it solid on all the classics.

Personally, I'd take the Happys over bas cuvier anyday, but I'm sure lots would disagree with me.

hmm yes the milks are painful too but i can endure it on a world class line. As you say each to their own, i can't really comprehend the bas cuvier thing. I'm inclined to agree with Nic Sellars take on the happies: "hueco gone wrong"

[DrWong]

The essential Buttermilks circuit:

1. Go Granny Go - V5
2. The Cave Problem - V6
3. High Plains Drifter - V7
4. Gleaming the Cube - V8
5. 2. Soul Slinger - V9
6. Stained Glass - V10
7. Plain High Drifter - V11

The essential Happies circuit:

Serengetti - v5
The Hulk - V6
Fast Dance - V7/8
Morning Dove White - V8
Redrum - V9
Lowrider - V10
Swordfish Trombone - V11

[hongkongstuey]

anyone care to add more to this thread?

heading to Bishop for a couple of weeks in March and want to do my homework before getting there...

cheers

Stu

[zemike]

drwongs recommendations are still a good basis.
add to the buttermilks circuit: the popes prow v4/5
add to the happies circuit: rave v5
and walk up to the druid stones!
and check the hot springs...

[Stu Littlefair]

One's I'd add to the list:

Happies/Sads:

Cholos V9: very nice cellar style problem
Dirty Boulevard V11: power endurance trav on small pockets
Acid Wash V10: knacky start (try keeping both feet far left) into satisfyingly burly finish
Beefcake (sads) V10: buuurrrrl.
French Press (sads) V7: something a little different

Buttermilk area:

Heroun and the Sea of Stories V10?: given V12 in the guide but hasn't seen that in a 100 years. Mega technical start, mega HIGHball finish. Take many friends and pads and it can be bailed off safely from almost anywhere.
Central Direct V10: tough, but cool. The intro problems to the harder things on this face.
Popes Prow V5: a little slice of grit arete home
Key to the Whole Deal (Druids) E6: Needs gear, so probably not going to get done, but we left some beer on top of the druid stone for you...

[SA Chris]

heading to Bishop for a couple of weeks in March and want to do my homework before getting there...

You going to get up to Mammoth when you are there. See if you can still remember what to do with a snowboard.

If you get up to the Druidstones, the Archdrude is great.

[Stubbs]

Heroun and the Sea of Stories V10?: given V12 in the guide but hasn't seen that in a 100 years. Mega technical start, mega HIGHball finish. Take many friends and pads and it can be bailed off safely from almost anywhere.

That's interesting - it looks amazing in the videos - V10? as in 'I was going well so could easily be V11'?

[Adam Lincoln]

Stu is right, HATSOS is never 12. And probably not even 11. Stand up is still the crux at V9....!

My top Buttermilks problems.

Checkerboard V8 - Very soft highball.
Evilution To lip - Soft V10 highball. Crux first move then jug crimp hauling.
Popes Prow - Tricky V6.
Moonraker - Climbs a lot better than it looks. Fun V9.
Stainned Glass - Must do nasty hold crimpfest hard V10.
True North - New V8 left on center direct, very highball.
Soul Slinger - Cool v9. Will either feel desperate or piss depending on temps.

[Stu Littlefair]

That's interesting - it looks amazing in the videos - V10? as in 'I was going well so could easily be V11'?

V10 as could possibly easier. Adam is right about the crux still being the bit on the V9 standup, but the problem is very sustained. And super scary, even with a lot of pads and spotters.

[Adam Lincoln]

That's interesting - it looks amazing in the videos - V10? as in 'I was going well so could easily be V11'?

V10 as could possibly easier. Adam is right about the crux still being the bit on the V9 standup, but the problem is very sustained. And super scary, even with a lot of pads and spotters.

Though the landing for the last few moves is reduced by a boulder being right underneath you. In a good way! Like Stu says, you can jump off every move, but don't fall off. The landing has been well patio'd now.

[Jaspersharpe]

Looks pretty scary....

[Stubbs]

Nice vid - there's one of Ethan Pringle on MVM too.  The holds look amazing!

[Richie Crouch]

Looks amazing, anyone happen to know the accompanying tune?

[Adam Lincoln]

Nice vid - there's one of Ethan Pringle on MVM too.  The holds look amazing!

Blockhead, Breath and start, from the album, music by cavelight

[hongkongstuey]

You going to get up to Mammoth when you are there. See if you can still remember what to do with a snowboard.

tempting - although past experience tells me non-climbing side trips = hospital visits... (a distincy possibility in this case given the last time I strapped a board on was almost 11 years ago!)

cheers for all the other pointers - any others in the V4-V8 range greatly accepted

[SA Chris]

Snowboarding is like riding a bike. OOPS!

If you do, it's a good mountain when not windy, avoid the big park though. You can sometimes get comp tickets from staff in the car park at a knock down rate.

[hongkongstuey]

Snowboarding is like riding a bike. OOPS!

and we definately don't wanna go down that road again...