[a dense loner]

saltbeef you're 6ft tall you goon

[saltbeef]

i must have shrunk in the wash

[a dense loner]

or you have got the worst posture on the planet, which is it i wonder?

[saltbeef]

hunched over all these dirty magazines, i fail to see your point.

[spidermonkey09]

Just there trying this now. This has to be shittest 3 star problem I've ever tried. It's completely height dependent. Must be 6A if you're tall!

Is the short beta still just jump /use dreadful high smear on the arete?

[JamieG]

  haha. Definitely very height dependant. But I doubt 6A. More 6C vs 7A I reckon. I’m too short (5’10) to do the lank method. So I either do the jump method or high right toe (there’s a little crozzle you can get something out of). Of the two, high toe feels easier to me.

(Also I think it’s a quality problem    )

[spidermonkey09]

Cheers Jamie; toe worked in the end but I maintain that reachy one movers are not 3 star problems!

The sit however is awesome, that is three stars. Good venue, impressed.

[Bradders]

It's been a while but I remember Fish Groove being really good. Think I deployed lank on Fish Arete and likewise didn't think much of it. Still haven't been back for the sit 7.5 years later perhaps as a result.

[JamieG]

Cheers Jamie; toe worked in the end but I maintain that reachy one movers are not 3 star problems!

The sit however is awesome, that is three stars. Good venue, impressed.

Did you do the sit as well. Nice work! I need to get back on that this year. And I agree it's the better problem overall.

But I still like the stand, and it's definitely not a one-mover for me. I find the left hand slap from the crimp into the big slopey undercut quite tricky too. (And the top out isn't a given, I've fallen off it before). The people that can lank it are just missing out! 

Aren't most dynos 'reachy one movers'? So unworthy of three stars? 

Wimberry is a great venue that is often passed over by the peak masses. I'm fortunate to live 10 mins down the road. What else did you try?

[JamieG]

It's been a while but I remember Fish Groove being really good. Think I deployed lank on Fish Arete and likewise didn't think much of it. Still haven't been back for the sit 7.5 years later perhaps as a result.

Get back on it! And try stateside (with the chip) at ~7B. Another excellent problem!

[spidermonkey09]

It's been a while but I remember Fish Groove being really good. Think I deployed lank on Fish Arete and likewise didn't think much of it. Still haven't been back for the sit 7.5 years later perhaps as a result.

Fish groove is really good. There's also an obvious sit to the weird crimpy problem on the left, starting on an undercut which looks good. What's that?

Didn't manage the sit but keen to go back. Jamie, PM me your number if you're keen to join forces as the fewer pads lugged up that hill the better!

Re the stand, I pulled on from the undercut as per earlier posts on this thread, maybe I've cheated myself out of a move.

To a short arse like me dynos are just showboating, it's climbing not jumping 

[JamieG]

I've never managed fish groove (but then I haven't tried it in years). Should give that a go too again, think it's 7b from a low start.

By 'weird crimpy thing' do you mean You're Joking just to the left of fish groove? If so, I believe the sit start is still a project. And possibly pretty nails.

[spidermonkey09]

Yeah that's the one, pull on with the crimps and go to the top. Interesting, that needs doing as its all there.