[tommytwotone]

yo yo, finally got up to Wimbrizzle on Sunday for a look round. Got well stuck/frustrated on Fish arete tho - had LH on undercut sloper thing, RH on high slopey arete bit. Heehooking with RF.

Am I right in thinking the next move is jump?

Question?

[dave]

think theres a couple of ways of doing this, one is to hold the slopey bit of arete, hand in groove, put right toe on footohld high on arete adn slap top with left hand. the other way is pull on hand in groove and one on best thing you can find on arete, swing a right foot heel in a really good scoop round right and get top right handed. if you can reach far enough to pull on theres a good littel horizontal pocket right round the arete, and if you can reach between that and the groove than thats the easiest way to pull on.

[Bonjoy]

That's right. RF on little nubbin near arete and slap for the top.

[tommytwotone]

think theres a couple of ways of doing this, one is to hold the slopey bit of arete, hand in groove, put right toe on footohld high on arete adn slap top with left hand.

aye - that's what I were trying but couldn't find anywhere for me right foot. Had my 'bearhug' on big style but was scampering about trying to get RF up - if I'm right the foothold for RF is quite high up, near the most decent bit of the arete?

Cheers f't beta anyways - don't think I'll be up there again till it's likely to be dryer, quality venue tho from what I saw/ripped skin off on.

[Jim]

Yeah, the foothold isn't much of a foothold but it is quite high up. tops massive. quality move

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Not blowing my own trumpet but i piised it when all my friends were stuggeling 2 weeks ago

I had right hand high on arete in a little dish left hand undercut

right foot on shit hold, then pop your left onto good foot hold,

Then left hand up (search around there is a tiny dish in the undercut, you get one finger on it, Slap the heel in, then i reached statick right hand to the jug,

Then campus left hand out to the arete, match right hand, stick your foot on the jug and rock over to glory

Hope this helps you out

goo luck

[tommytwotone]

... then i reached statick right hand to the jug...

like I said, short man seeks beta...  :roll:

cheers for the numbaz, will give that a bash as well, though I doubt I'll be static-ing that top move any time in the near future!

[a dense loner]

i wrote the same last nite but it didn't come out :evil:
short mans beta is exactly what's been said, right foot high on little nubbin left hand up. anyone who can reach the pocket from the ground may as well move to france

[Jim]

so thats why your moving is it?

[dobbin]

sitters really good too.

Must try this rf high beta next time I go

[andy_e]

can be done statically:

[andy_e]

oops:

[andy_e]

aaah! i hate computers! :freak:

[a dense loner]

is this going to be a picture of a tall guy doing it statically?

[r-man]

is this going to be a picture of a tall guy doing it statically?

What, more p o r n?  

______
Incidentally, why does typing the word p o r n (without the spaces) come out as pr0n? Bizarre. Look: pr0n.

[dave]

is this going to be a picture of a tall guy doing it statically?

what, like this?

[neil@canaryclimbs]

YES excactly like this




 :D   :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D  :D

[neil@canaryclimbs]

Ps

I wish the crag looked like that when i was there,  in the grey dark slimmy green weekend not so long ago



top problem

[dave]

aye, it was middle of july when that were taken.

[andy_e]

is this going to be a picture of a tall guy doing it statically?

yes.
 :roll:

[andy_e]

Incidentally, why does typing the word p o r n (without the spaces) come out as pr0n? Bizarre. Look: pr0n.

pr0n pr0n

[andy_e]

oh yeah!

[dave]

think if you type P to the O to the R to the N then it kicks of bubba work filtering ting and he won't be able to view the thread, so think theres an auto-correct thing going to to prevent it happening.

[saltbeef]

I'm not tall 5 10 and i've got a neagative ape index, still staticed it though, just got my heel real high on the arete. I've got video of the baron doing it avec the slap but wouldn't have a clue how to put that on cos I'm a luddite.

[andy_e]

I've got video of the baron doing it avec the slap but wouldn't have a clue how to put that on cos I'm a luddite.

me too. how do you get stuff on?

[a dense loner]

saltbeef you're 6ft tall you goon

[saltbeef]

i must have shrunk in the wash

[a dense loner]

or you have got the worst posture on the planet, which is it i wonder?

[saltbeef]

hunched over all these dirty magazines, i fail to see your point.

[spidermonkey09]

Just there trying this now. This has to be shittest 3 star problem I've ever tried. It's completely height dependent. Must be 6A if you're tall!

Is the short beta still just jump /use dreadful high smear on the arete?

[JamieG]

  haha. Definitely very height dependant. But I doubt 6A. More 6C vs 7A I reckon. I’m too short (5’10) to do the lank method. So I either do the jump method or high right toe (there’s a little crozzle you can get something out of). Of the two, high toe feels easier to me.

(Also I think it’s a quality problem    )

[spidermonkey09]

Cheers Jamie; toe worked in the end but I maintain that reachy one movers are not 3 star problems!

The sit however is awesome, that is three stars. Good venue, impressed.

[Bradders]

It's been a while but I remember Fish Groove being really good. Think I deployed lank on Fish Arete and likewise didn't think much of it. Still haven't been back for the sit 7.5 years later perhaps as a result.

[JamieG]

Cheers Jamie; toe worked in the end but I maintain that reachy one movers are not 3 star problems!

The sit however is awesome, that is three stars. Good venue, impressed.

Did you do the sit as well. Nice work! I need to get back on that this year. And I agree it's the better problem overall.

But I still like the stand, and it's definitely not a one-mover for me. I find the left hand slap from the crimp into the big slopey undercut quite tricky too. (And the top out isn't a given, I've fallen off it before). The people that can lank it are just missing out! 

Aren't most dynos 'reachy one movers'? So unworthy of three stars? 

Wimberry is a great venue that is often passed over by the peak masses. I'm fortunate to live 10 mins down the road. What else did you try?

[JamieG]

It's been a while but I remember Fish Groove being really good. Think I deployed lank on Fish Arete and likewise didn't think much of it. Still haven't been back for the sit 7.5 years later perhaps as a result.

Get back on it! And try stateside (with the chip) at ~7B. Another excellent problem!

[spidermonkey09]

It's been a while but I remember Fish Groove being really good. Think I deployed lank on Fish Arete and likewise didn't think much of it. Still haven't been back for the sit 7.5 years later perhaps as a result.

Fish groove is really good. There's also an obvious sit to the weird crimpy problem on the left, starting on an undercut which looks good. What's that?

Didn't manage the sit but keen to go back. Jamie, PM me your number if you're keen to join forces as the fewer pads lugged up that hill the better!

Re the stand, I pulled on from the undercut as per earlier posts on this thread, maybe I've cheated myself out of a move.

To a short arse like me dynos are just showboating, it's climbing not jumping 

[JamieG]

I've never managed fish groove (but then I haven't tried it in years). Should give that a go too again, think it's 7b from a low start.

By 'weird crimpy thing' do you mean You're Joking just to the left of fish groove? If so, I believe the sit start is still a project. And possibly pretty nails.

[spidermonkey09]

Yeah that's the one, pull on with the crimps and go to the top. Interesting, that needs doing as its all there.