technical > photography

filters and stuff

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cofe:
i'd avoid velvia 100 in evening light as it can turn lime green. weird. kodak's ektachromes and elite chromes offer plenty of bite, just don't go above iso200. astia is good for skin but i didn't think it handled greens particularly well. the thing is you'll end up trying a few and it will come down to personal preference. the glass in your lens will also have an effect on the end slide.

cofe:
quite like the effect in steven soderburgh films when its normally related to temperature or different environments.

Yossarian:

--- Quote from: "SA Chris" ---I think once you have used slide film and seen the results, photos are always disappointing in comparison. I rarely go back, except when shooting somewhere that there's a lot of snow; while boaridng or mountaineering, as I never get exposure right there.

--- End quote ---


i still think it's odd that people write off reversal film so often. granted, i use velvia and provia more than anything else, but there's so little lattitude with transparency film that loads of pictures i've taken would have worked better with negative film.  

it goes without saying that you need to get them hand printed, but then if you're getting cibachrome prints made from transparency then you'll be doing the same. or i suppose you could scan from transparency and print them out, but then you're losing out on half the dMax that you're precious Velvia enabled in the first place.

velvia and provia are lovely films, but when you're taking climbing pictures that are partly in bright sunlight and partly in shadow then there are a lot of other options. slides always look bright and extra colourful because when you're looking at them on a lightbox you're seeing transmitted light, not reflected light.  as soon as they become a print then they're something quite different...

cofe:
does anyone else not notice these 'sub'topics' cos of small orangey bit?

never had any results i liked from any negative film; the majority of pro films are optimised for skin tones for portrait work and give ghastly results for climbing and landscape type stuff. such films (Fuji NPH and NPS, Portra NC) are great for what they're intended for and i use the fuji ones pretty regularly. only had reasonable results in climbing etc from reala 100 but the extra exposure latitude i find doesn't add an extra dimension.

transparency film just offers images the edge, and printed right, a well exposed slide doesn't lose that much through scanning and printing from the image on the lightbox.

SA Chris:

--- Quote from: "Yossarian" --- i still think it's odd that people write off reversal film so often. granted, i use velvia and provia more than anything else, but there's so little lattitude with transparency film that loads of pictures i've taken would have worked better with negative film.  

it goes without saying that you need to get them hand printed, but then if you're getting cibachrome prints made from transparency then you'll be doing the same. or i suppose you could scan from transparency and print them out, but then you're losing out on half the dMax that you're precious Velvia enabled in the first place.

velvia and provia are lovely films, but when you're taking climbing pictures that are partly in bright sunlight and partly in shadow then there are a lot of other options. slides always look bright and extra colourful because when you're looking at them on a lightbox you're seeing transmitted light, not reflected light.  as soon as they become a print then they're something quite different...
--- End quote ---


True, but it's kind of hard to carry 3 bodies around and swap and change as conditions dictate. I usually plug for 100 ASA film for my outdoor shots, the majority of which are climbing/landscape anyway, with the occasional nature shots. I usually look at my slides with a lightbox or viewer and they look good that way, so it keeps me happy, regardless of whether they become different when printed. I get ones I want to use for further purposes scanned, and live with the final result, which is usually better than what i would get out of a print.

In my opinion anyway.

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